Hi all
I'm new to this club I guess there has been a lot of discussion about dolomite sprint tuning here so I need your knowledge and experience for my project. I've been owning a dolomite sprint for a long time and lately ive decided to modify it. So far the plan is this: prepared cylinder head. uprated studs and bolts for head and rods(probably ARP).new standard valve springs. standard crankshaft calibrated with rods. Lightened flywheel. STR91 kent cam. weber DCOE45 (is the webcon kit ok?). Facet fuel pump with regulator. EWP Davies Graig 80 with regulator. custom aluminum water radiator. Oil radiator (rimmers)
My qyestions:
1. whats the tuning for the 45s on the STR91
2. tips for the electric water pump installation in order to maintain heating system
3 exhaust manifold space problem. is it possible to make a custom tubular system without cutting the car? I'm also intending to have a short side exhaust
4. any tips in order to build a strong reliable engine. My goal is 180+ hp.
thank you
Georgios
p.s. the car is located in turin italy
sprint almost race car
Hello and .....
Welcome to the forum Georgios.koukos1 wrote:2. tips for the electric water pump installation in order to maintain heating system
Based on my experience, don't bother with the Davies Craig stuff, at best, it is overpriced rubbish.
Instead buy a proper electric water pump, from Stewart pumps (in the USA) and a remote thermostat.
Please read this thread, it details an installation that works properly.….
http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/foru ... te-engine/
Ian.
TDC Forum moderator
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Re: sprint almost race car
There is a very active dolomite sprint club in Italy. Demetrio Talarico you can have a talk to.
Jeroen
Jeroen
Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com
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gmsclassics
- TDC Member
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Re: sprint almost race car
Welcome to the forum Georgios
It sounds like what you are aiming to build is a very fast road car, but not actually a purpose built race car.
1) The works homologation specifications are for 48 webers using a STR139 cam so they aren't helpful. I run 45 Dellortos on an STR139 cam and we started by finding what other cars were using them. We started using the setup for a Lotus 2.2L engine and they required little modification, you might be able to work from what some other 2000cc engine uses when fitted with 45 webers
2) I run the EWC110 with the latest version controller on my race car. The advantages are that a) the set point for the coolant temperature can be set / varied, b) it can also be used to control the radiator fan and c) the pump keeps running pumping coolant around the engine after it has been stopped, thus avoiding localized overheating and boiling. It keeps my race engine at no more than 90C, even when air temp is 30C. For your level of tune and ambient summer temperature, I'm sure the EWC80 will be sufficient. I also run a header tank higher than the thermostat housing and a return hose from the header, connected to the bottom radiator hose via a T-piece. If you don't need antifreeze for below zero conditions, then using water with a proprietary surfactant/corrosion inhibitor such as 'Water Wetter' improves cooling. I use a Porsche 944 Turbo radiator.
3) I suspect you are correct in that your setup will produce around the 185bhp. The standard exhaust manifold is fine for 200bhp at least, but just make sure the ports are matched with the head and that you fit a larger bore downpipe and a corresponding big bore exhaust. (that is what I have). A tubuar system may look nice but will prove very restrictive for engine access etc. Side exit may not be the best way to go.
4) Balance everything and make sure all the tolerances are correct. You'll find you don't need to rev it hard for maximum torque and power, but fit a good rev limiter just in case. The best oil, such as Motul 300V 15-50 synthetic and NEVER, EVER let the engine overheat. Then it should last a long time.
If you make it go faster, then you also need to make it stop better. There are other threads on the forum about options for that, but also use new, higher boiling point fluid. Then there are suspension modifications along with an LSD to avoid the inner rear wheel losing traction as you put the power on coming out of corners.
Hope this helps
Geoff
It sounds like what you are aiming to build is a very fast road car, but not actually a purpose built race car.
1) The works homologation specifications are for 48 webers using a STR139 cam so they aren't helpful. I run 45 Dellortos on an STR139 cam and we started by finding what other cars were using them. We started using the setup for a Lotus 2.2L engine and they required little modification, you might be able to work from what some other 2000cc engine uses when fitted with 45 webers
2) I run the EWC110 with the latest version controller on my race car. The advantages are that a) the set point for the coolant temperature can be set / varied, b) it can also be used to control the radiator fan and c) the pump keeps running pumping coolant around the engine after it has been stopped, thus avoiding localized overheating and boiling. It keeps my race engine at no more than 90C, even when air temp is 30C. For your level of tune and ambient summer temperature, I'm sure the EWC80 will be sufficient. I also run a header tank higher than the thermostat housing and a return hose from the header, connected to the bottom radiator hose via a T-piece. If you don't need antifreeze for below zero conditions, then using water with a proprietary surfactant/corrosion inhibitor such as 'Water Wetter' improves cooling. I use a Porsche 944 Turbo radiator.
3) I suspect you are correct in that your setup will produce around the 185bhp. The standard exhaust manifold is fine for 200bhp at least, but just make sure the ports are matched with the head and that you fit a larger bore downpipe and a corresponding big bore exhaust. (that is what I have). A tubuar system may look nice but will prove very restrictive for engine access etc. Side exit may not be the best way to go.
4) Balance everything and make sure all the tolerances are correct. You'll find you don't need to rev it hard for maximum torque and power, but fit a good rev limiter just in case. The best oil, such as Motul 300V 15-50 synthetic and NEVER, EVER let the engine overheat. Then it should last a long time.
If you make it go faster, then you also need to make it stop better. There are other threads on the forum about options for that, but also use new, higher boiling point fluid. Then there are suspension modifications along with an LSD to avoid the inner rear wheel losing traction as you put the power on coming out of corners.
Hope this helps
Geoff