Drilling out reverse selector plug Sprint

[cleverusername]

I have managed to drill out the other two plugs on the three rail selector, but the reverse one is defying all my drill bits. The Heynes manual diagram says there is a spacer under the plug and the only way to remove it seems to be to drill the spacer as well as the plug. Not ideal, but I assume as it is not an oil seal, as long at the outside remains I am fine.

The problem is the spacer is made of armoured plate. I have tried normal bits, hss bits and a locksmith bit. The later will drill a thread tap or easyout. It isn't making a dent on this spacer. Has anyone got any suggestions?

[marko]

Either some decent quality hss or cobalt. I have some m42 cobalt bits from the states of which I'd happily send you one. People on this forum have been so kind and helpful to me and I'd like to pass it on.

[Robert 352]

I don't recall having a problem in drilling through the plug just enough to get a small self tapping screw to screw into the plug itself. I have used something like a 3/32 dia high speed drill to drill down into the softer metal of the plug and then I insert the screw and turn it until it grabs tight. I use a pair of pliers or side cutters to grab the screw and lever the plug out of the hole.

Yes, that spacer is certainly much harder than the plug but once the plug is removed it will just fall out.

Bring it round here and I will happily do it for you!!!

Robert

[Flyfisherman]

Drill a small hole within the retension plug - 2mm drill.


Screw a self tapping screw into the drill hole.


With the aid of a small pry bar prized out the retension plug


Be carefull when prizing the plug out there is a spring underneath the plug.






All plugs removed + springs + ball bearings + spacers


More to follow if required.

Paul

[cleverusername]

Thanks for the replies. The problem is with the spacer in I can't get a self tapper into the plug.

Anyway update, I now have a replacement space and three replacement plugs. The plugs are the earlier screw in type, so my plan is to tap out the holes to take the screw threads. In theory this means I won't have to go to the bother of doing all this next time I have to overhaul it.

Has anyone else made this mod?

[cleverusername]

Drill a small hole within the retension plug - 2mm drill.


Screw a self tapping screw into the drill hole.


With the aid of a small pry bar prized out the retension plug


Be carefull when prizing the plug out there is a spring underneath the plug.






All plugs removed + springs + ball bearings + spacers


More to follow if required.

Paul

So that is why I can't drill it, the damn thing is much thicker than it looks in the exploded diagram.

[tony g]

Who sells replacement plugs?

Tony

[Magenta Auto Sprint]

I don't know what size the original hole is but as has been mentioned, tap them out and use a grub screw, available from many sources including evilbay.


Or you could use some bright bar or dowel rod of the correct size, cut to length and tap in, for future use you could drill and tap a small hole in the top to allow a screw to be fitted as in the earlier photos.

[cleverusername]

Who sells replacement plugs?

Tony

TR6 suppliers seem to have them, but I am only guessing that TR6 three rail selectors parts will fit.

[tony g]

Yes should be the same

Tony

[Flyfisherman]

Yes should be the same

Tony

They are and are fitted to a Stag, Tr2 - Tr5 & Tr6

Paul

[cleverusername]

I have the plugs out and the plunger on reverse. The ball bearing on the other selectors won't come out. This thing is fighting me. I think this is preventing me from removing the selector rods.

Can I safely use a blow torch on the casting to expand it and get the ball bearings out?

[cleverusername]

It is all apart, thanks to British standard precision tool no.1, a hammer.

[Carledo]

When I was an apprentice in the early 70s, my fitter had a sign over his bench that said "A hammer is a precision instrument in the hands of a skilled man", something I took to heart!
Or quoted from the Haynes manual (ANY Haynes manual) "many tight fitting will yield to judicious use of a hammer"
Or quoted from someone on the Retro Rides Forum, "If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem"

OR, quoted from me, "if at first, you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"

When I buy a new hammer, (not often) I try every one in the shop for balance (or even on the Snap On van) which gets me some funny looks but less hammered knuckles! One of my most prized possessions is a Sealey panel beaters pick hammer which has a flat end and a pointed end. This hammer is SO perfectly balanced that I can knock in headless nails with the pointed end. Though it came as part of a £14 kit (circa 1975) which contained 3 hammers and 4 dollies, it now has a £28 Snap On hickory wood handle! The other bits of the kit were the usual cheap cr*p and are long gone!

Steve