lumenition coil 6v or 12v

[Mahesh]

The MS4 is the same one I'm using with a magnetronic,
without the supplied ballast resistor.

I had the same conundrum, it says 12v coil and my meter checked out the ohms within spec.

The only problem is that since fitment, my car has only been driven fifty odd miles, and the drive up to stonleigh will be the road test. (with a spare coil and points in the boot).

On the plus side, the car has been started daily for 20 mins with no problems so far.

[Carledo]

The MS4 is the same one I'm using with a magnetronic,
without the supplied ballast resistor.

I had the same conundrum, it says 12v coil and my meter checked out the ohms within spec.

The only problem is that since fitment, my car has only been driven fifty odd miles, and the drive up to stonleigh will be the road test. (with a spare coil and points in the boot).

On the plus side, the car has been started daily for 20 mins with no problems so far.

But are you running off the car's original ballasted +ve lead, or have you run a 12v supply from the fusebox to the coil?

Steve

[soe8m]

To clear things,

A 6 volt coil is for a 6 volt car like an old VW Beetle.

A 12 volt coil is for a 12 volt car like a volvo 145. A ballasted 12 volt coil is for, name a car, for example, a Triumph Dolomite.

Who ever started the "6 volt coil" on this forum should be removed permanent.

I remember a few months ago on the FB page someone did actually buy a 6v coil for his Dolomite and proudly did say the seller at the partsshop didn't understand what he was talking about and stated he needed a 12v for his dolomite. I replied that seller was right and he had the wrong coil but do not know what he did in the end. Use it or return the 6v coil.

Jeroen

[soe8m]

A 6 volt coil is for a 6 volt car like an old VW Beetle.

According the search function of this forum this was first mentioned on 26 october 2010 by me. The last time before now was on 17 october 2013. We need a repeat function also.

I promise this is the last time.

Jeroen

[Mad Mart]

Coils on our Dollies are neither 12V nor 6V and neither are ballasted or non ballasted. They are 1.5 Ohm or 3 Ohm if you have by-passed the ballast resistor. You use the 1.5 ohm if you are using standard ballasted system ie. have a ballast resistor in series rated at 1.5 Ohms. On a Sprint the ballast resistor is just a length of wire (I think it's about five feet long) which adds a resistance of 1.5 Ohms to the circuit.

[soe8m]

That's not true.

The resistance in the primary is 3ohm but the secundairies are different. A 6 volt 3ohm coil (transformator) does have to transform 6 volt to lets say 25.000 volts has a different winding as a 12v 3ohm coil that has to transform to 25.000 volt.

A 12 volt 1,5ohm ballasted coil is very different to a "normal" 12 volt 1,5ohm high energy coil that doesn't need a resistor.

A Bosch HKZ coil on '70 and '80 Mercedes, BMW and Porsches is about 1,2ohm but is also very different. These have the neg to ground and have an 400 volt injection on the pos side each time it has to spark.

All these different types cannot be mixed up and are different coils. Not just a 3ohm or 1,5ohm coil.

Jeroen

Oh, and i did peel off a loom once to find a resistor wire and to find where the resistor was soldered in.

[Mahesh]

I am running the coil on the cars standard ballasted lead.

The Magnetronic module has a ign + connection from the fuse box.

[Carledo]

I am running the coil on the cars standard ballasted lead.

The Magnetronic module has a ign + connection from the fuse box.

That sounds correct to me and makes sense for Steve to run the same way, using the original coil connections on the new coil will keep it ballasted without needing the remote ballast resistor and connect the Optronic power supply to a 12v ignition controlled source like the fuse box.
I remember Lumenition stressing this in the instructions. Hopefully (and theoretically) the Optronic is powerful enough to negate the need for the cranking override lead. It was on my GT6 which started instantly in any weather (helped a bit by an electric fuel pump)

Steve

[Mahesh]

To my knowledge mine is wired as it should be, on a ballasted system, but there is always
room for doubt.

The Stoneleigh road test will be the deciding factor for me, as last October on my way
there, at the last few miles the car felt a bit off, (hunting for a spark).

On the return, all was fine until I hit city traffic, whereas the coil overheated and the
condensor died.

So to sum up my probs, (which are hopefully sorted),

1. Originally running on a Lucas sports coil and std points all fine, never a problem, and I mean never !
2. Changed to Magnetronic module, but did not change coil, Magnetronic Fried after one spark !.
3. Changed to Lumention MS3 coil and standard points and condensor, all good until traffic returning from Stoneleigh,
MS3 coil overheated and condensor gone.
4. Changed to MS4 with Magnetronic module, coil connected to std cabling, Magnetronic module to coil with 12+ ign feed
from fuse box, all seems to be working, need long roadtest to be sure.

If anyone thinks 4. is wrong, please let me know, it's getting expensive.

[bluetriumphsteve]

Cheers guys for all the info,

Just spoke with Autocar, and was told, if the system is wired how I have done it, with a hi torque starter, and the wire discarded from the hi torque starter. Then it will make no difference to having it wired from the original spade connector. I was told to check the system is a ballast type (we know it is) and just wire in the lumenition system as per instructions discarding the ballast included with the MS4 coil.

If fitting it with an MS4 coil as a a live feed from the fuse box, then the ballast resister from lumention needs to be fitted and it must be able to be turned off with the ign.

If a fuse is used on a live wire feed from the fuse box to be no more than 4 amp, although 5 amp also ok

Thanks alot for all your info guys

Hope this helps, and please correct if you disagree with anything, its still a learning curve for me with lumention systerms

Cheers

Steve

[soe8m]

I'm the last to disagree but don't forget to have the discarded starter wire reconnected.

Jeroen

[bluetriumphsteve]

Will does,

Cheers mate for all the help

Steve

[georgethompson730]

Steve, I feel your pain.....I to am fitting lumenition to my 1850 and have been watching this post for some clarity on the coil issue. As far as I know my ignition system is totaly standard, whatever that is, can I just fit the lumenition as per instructions with my existing 1.5 ohm coil? Or not? Do I need to be worrying about bypassing resistors, disconnecting starter wires? No high TQ starter's here, but it was cracking slower than I remember when I turned her over for the first time in ten years. That's going to be another question.

[bluetriumphsteve]

Hi mate, I was told by Autocar the makers of lumenition to do this test on the car before you do anything, YouTube video below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWxJmbm5V3s

If your getting between 6-9 volts on the coil, ok to use the lumenition as it is, if your getting 12 volts (battery voltage), you'll need to put the lumenition ballest in place.

If your unsure just give Autocar a ring: 02074 034334

Cheers

Steve

[georgethompson730]

Thanks Steve, that's made it clearer for my set up, totally standard and unmolested. This is the first time I have ever felt the need to modify my car, not including Jeroens front light loom. I never had problems with points and condenser when I was running the car as my daily drive, but that was some years ago now. I'm thinking electronic ignition will be more reliable for less frequent use now. I wish I had half the knowledge of some of you guys on here, its entertaining, even if I don't understand all of it......