SU Needle help

[Boost All The Dollys]

I'm preparing to start buying components for LEC and looking at HS4 needles needed to help boost drivability and power. Moss Europe suggest either AAQ or AAM for exhaust and fast road cam or head modifications and exhaust and fast road cam.

Which ones would you say are best from your experience? AAM or AAQ or some other profile?

And is there a difference between waxstat and red jet carb needles?

[cliftyhanger]

It what way is the engine modified?

[Boost All The Dollys]

It what way is the engine modified?

Will be tubular exhaust/extractor, Moss fast road 83 cam, K&N filters, twin SU HS4 carbs

[cliftyhanger]

Probably worth getting the CR increased a bit, about 9.75 or 10 would be useful with a cam....
AAQ to AAU, ideally a rolling road session.
Oil cooler? I would (and did) but still got through a few cranks on my 1500 toledo. Use a very decent oil too. And consider a rev limiter. Really, I should have done it would have saved 2 cranks....
This is assuming you will regularly drive the car hard ( I do hope so!)

[Boost All The Dollys]

Probably worth getting the CR increased a bit, about 9.75 or 10 would be useful with a cam....

Was going to get a Rimmerbros short engine rebuild kit which comes with "high compression " pistons but I don't know what CR they will take it to, presumably it just means 9.5 CR pistons which is higher than some US spec pistons.

Oil cooler? I would (and did) but still got through a few cranks on my 1500 toledo. Use a very decent oil too. And consider a rev limiter. Really, I should have done it would have saved 2 cranks....
This is assuming you will regularly drive the car hard ( I do hope so!)

I will be getting an oil cooler after reading up how spitfire owners modify their engines. Rev limit will be in the future at some point.
And it will be driven hard... once it's not in pieces haha

[cliftyhanger]

I would strip and check the engine prior to buying any parts. Pistons/bores are often fine just requiring hone and rings.
And do your research on bearings.....the std ones are not great, the LC type are better. Not sure what comes in the kit.

I have an oil cooler setup off mine. I fitted it when I put the last engine in, which was looked after and lives on in a friends herald (ie cooler has not had a grenaded engine attached) cooler, takeoff, thermostat etc.

BTW consider a TR5 profile cam. It was designed to work in a Triumph (the kent cams are a ford profile) plus it is aimed at a engine with a rev limit of sub 6k in mind, which is a better bet too. Trust me on this!

Deffo get the head skimmed, dynamic CR reduces with hotter cams.......(and 3 angle valve seat cuts at the same time, cheap easy power)

[Boost All The Dollys]

I would strip and check the engine prior to buying any parts. Pistons/bores are often fine just requiring hone and rings.
And do your research on bearings.....the std ones are not great, the LC type are better. Not sure what comes in the kit.

I have an oil cooler setup off mine. I fitted it when I put the last engine in, which was looked after and lives on in a friends herald (ie cooler has not had a grenaded engine attached) cooler, takeoff, thermostat etc.

BTW consider a TR5 profile cam. It was designed to work in a Triumph (the kent cams are a ford profile) plus it is aimed at a engine with a rev limit of sub 6k in mind, which is a better bet too. Trust me on this!

Deffo get the head skimmed, dynamic CR reduces with hotter cams.......(and 3 angle valve seat cuts at the same time, cheap easy power)

Cheers for the advice. Oil cooler is on the cards and an engine rebuild is underway. Will check bores when I get the engine out and I'll start looking into bearings.

The Moss cam is a TriumphTune cam and I think is based of the MK3 spitfire cam. But I'll look for a TR5 cam profile.

I think the head was skimmed when I first built the engine but I'll have to check the receipts from a few years ago

And thank you again Cliftyhanger

[marko]

I'm building up a fast 1500 lump and after research I opted for a Newman cam through jigsaw. Mark there helped design the profile himself and it's classed similar to the TH5 from Kent. Bearings come from James Paddock and are the 3 metal jobies. Don't forget new bottom end bolts and big end bolts, ARP sell them for a medium bank loan or Jigsaw again sell them.
Good luck and keep us up to date with your progress,
Mark.

[Boost All The Dollys]

I'm building up a fast 1500 lump and after research I opted for a Newman cam through jigsaw. Mark there helped design the profile himself and it's classed similar to the TH5 from Kent. Bearings come from James Paddock and are the 3 metal jobies. Don't forget new bottom end bolts and big end bolts, ARP sell them for a medium bank loan or Jigsaw again sell them.
Good luck and keep us up to date with your progress,
Mark.

I heard from a spitfire modification site that YB cosworth con rod bolts can be used as they are same length and thread. I'm not 100% on that but will be giving it a punt as they are cheaper than ARP Triumph bolts. Didn't know I would have to replace main bearing cap bolts so will look into that

Cheers Marko

[marko]

It's not essential but for the cost it's worthwhile just in case. Look at adding an additional thrust washer too. Some ideas on YouTube.

[Jon Tilson]

You best look on the SU needle charts which used to be available on the minty lamb web site.

As a result I tried some ADH's which were a tad rich for my Sprint and ended up with the std dolly 1850 needle...ABK.

This gives me plenty of low down oomph and 75 mph cruise in o/d comes in at mid 30's mpg wise, so still a tad rich I suspect but will do for now.

AAQ's never worked for me....far too rich.

Jonners