RUK - Project Recommission 1972 'Dolomite' Auto

[James467]

Points were a tiny bit tight so I have reset them.

I will run it on points for a few hundred miles before switching to Optronic, I'll need to do something to the rev counter as well, I don't think the early ones work with it.

[Triumph1300]

Little refinements, and bedding back in .

All good news though

[sprint95m]

I will run it on points for a few hundred miles before switching to Optronic, I'll need to do something to the rev counter as well, I don't think the early ones work with it.

The tachometer on the early 1850s has the feed to the ignition coil going through it (so if the tachometer fails the engine will stop and not restart).
Leave that wiring alone and add a new wire from the +12V (fusebox) to bypass the tachometer.

You will then be able to add electronic ignition and still have a working tachometer.




Ian.

[James467]

Leave that wiring alone and add a new wire from the +12V (fusebox) to bypass the tachometer.

You will then be able to add electronic ignition and still have a working tachometer.

Thanks Ian, that's good to know, I was under the impression I had to rewire the tach.

[Jon Tilson]

A dolly 1850 auto on bergs should do at least 90, and be pulling well at 70. As has been suggested, drop the choke...
Dolly's are also quite sensitive to exhaust condition. You may have some baffles clogging things up. The Sprint style sports exhaust can be used on an early 1850 without loo9king too wrong...

I would think about a 20 quid Maplin kit for you existing delco ignition too.

Interesting comment about the tach from Ian. Mine is running an aldon ignitor in a Sprint dizzy for its TR7 lump but the tacho always just worked and its a K plater with the early style. I must have been lucky...

Jonners

[James467]

A dolly 1850 auto on bergs should do at least 90, and be pulling well at 70. As has been suggested, drop the choke...

It wouldn't do 90, I'll try the choke again but....

Dolly's are also quite sensitive to exhaust condition. You may have some baffles clogging things up. The Sprint style sports exhaust can be used on an early 1850 without loo9king too wrong...

Hmmm the exhaust could be at best described as rusty, at worst it can be described as about to fall off! Its the one that came on the car so this could be the problem.

So, is it sports or standard?

Also, what's this Maplin kit that I've herd so much about?

[James467]

I have a feeling that the back box on there is for a 1500.

[Toledo Man]

James if it has the 1850HL exhaust, the tail pipe is the same as on the Dolly 1500/1500HL. The Corsa will be gone soon. The owner wants to get it MoTd as soon as possible.

[Karlos]

This thread is another great Dolomite story from start to finish (not that they ever really finish). A very well done job all round!

I just wanted to add:

Points were a tiny bit tight so I have reset them.

Altering the contact breaker gap will also change the timing, so it may be worth checking the timing again. Also a smear of grease on the distributor cam will slow down the wear of the breaker's plastic heel.

A 15 mile blast up the motorway will probably help make it run better too.

[James467]

Altering the contact breaker gap will also change the timing, so it may be worth checking the timing again. Also a smear of grease on the distributor cam will slow down the wear of the breaker's plastic heel.

Ooooh great advice, I'll give it a blast tomorrow and check the timing.

[James467]

This thread is another great Dolomite story from start to finish (not that they ever really finish). A very well done job all round!

Sorry Karlos, I didn't thank you for your comment!

[AlanH]

Also, what's this Maplin kit that I've herd so much about?

I think that Jon is talking about the Velleman kit. I can't find it on the Maplin site but they are freely available..

[James467]

I think that Jon is talking about the Velleman kit. I can't find it on the Maplin site but they are freely available..

Thanks, found it. For £20 complete with a box it's worth a punt. Maplin don't stock them any more apparently, so I'll have to order online.

One thing I noticed is when the lights, wipers, heated rear window are all on as they have been today because it's been raining I barely get 12 volts and the indicator doesn't flash.

I think it's time for a more powerful alternator and as the rad will have to be removed to get the alternator off I may as well go ahead and fit an electric fan at the same time. Jeroen, don't you always fit an electric fan, any recommendations?

Did a quick search through the forum and came across this thread viewtopic.php?f=6&t=12547

I was looking at an A127 unit from a Rover 100 as it should be a direct fit.

Is there anything I need to do the the wiring if I fit a higher powered unit or will the existing loom take it?

[sprint95m]

If your car still has its original 15ACR alternator you will have to adapt the plug wiring to fit an A127 (or fit a new plug).

I use Revotec slimline cooling fans.
There is room on the inlet manifold for a second temperature sensor.


If you are going to be using the heated back window, I would be changing the switch for a better designed one
and I would fit a relay as well.

In fact I fit relays for most things, horn, headlamps, brake lights, electric cooling fan, etc.



Ian.

[SprintMWU773V]

I did see something the other week saying Kenlowe have stopped making fans for cars. I prefer the design of the Revotech ones to be fair and they have an in-hose type sender which means it's won't leak like the Kenlowe bulb type. I did contact Revotec about custom brackets for a fan on a Sprint but they didn't get back to me which is disappointing. I'd prefer to use a bracket instead of tie wraps through the fins. Brackets wouldn't be hugely difficult to make but I figured that other Dolomite owners might like some.