Advice on getting the clutch to work on a 1970 Toledo

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Toledo1970

Advice on getting the clutch to work on a 1970 Toledo

#1 Post by Toledo1970 »

Dear all,
After spending all afternoon yesterday bleeding the clutch on my 2 door white 1970 Triumph Toledo, I am seeking advice on what may be going wrong. Two weekends down the line I am definitely closer to getting the job completed so I can get the car to its MOT which expired at the end of last month. The new slave cyclinder is fitted with the clutch rod located.

When the clutch completely went in October last year my mechanic recommended that I get a new slave cyclinder which I dutifully did from David Manners on the Wolverhampton Road. In attempting to fit it two weekends ago I found that the old pipe connector didn't fit so had to abort the job. David Manners were brilliant and posted me first class (no charge) an oversized bleed valve.

The key difference, and this may be critical, is that the bleed valve is now at the bottom of the slave cyclinder when it was orginally at the top where it was a b*****d to get to. However, I think, and some comments on this forum back the opinion that the air lock may be in the top of the slave cylinder as a result. I did originally think that the master cyclinder was at fault but it effectively pumped fluid through the slave cylinder and into the Eezibleed bottle.

I'm contemplating removing the slave cylinder, placing a cable tie over the piston and bleeding it in the engine bay with the bleed valve at the top. I may have to get it flatbedded to the garage but any advice that can help me avoid this more expensive option would be appreciated. I also have a four door 1975 Triumph Toledo that's been garaged since 1995 with one owner since new but that's another story for another time.

Many thanks all in anticipation.

Laurence
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Triumph1300
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Re: Advice on getting the clutch to work on a 1970 Toledo

#2 Post by Triumph1300 »

You've answered your own question Laurence, the bleed nipple has to be at the top.

Take the slave off, use a g cramp or similar to hold the piston back, up end the bleed nipple, and bleed it.

Then reinstall.

Should sort you out
BWJ
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Toledo1970

Re: Advice on getting the clutch to work on a 1970 Toledo

#3 Post by Toledo1970 »

Thanks for your very prompt reply Triumph 1300! This is a great forum. Back under the beast to find out how flexible the hose is! Cracking tip with the G-clamp - a lot less fiddly than a cable tie and it should help me appropriately position the slave cyclinder for bleeding. I'll update this thread when I've tried this approach.
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