A Different Tensioner Question

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tony g
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A Different Tensioner Question

#1 Post by tony g »

How long do good ones last?
Assuming we can get Reynolds or good alternative (not Rolon of course) how long would its normal service life be?
Fresh engines with regular modern oils should in my mind be good for 50k + for a good tensioner.
Any thoughts?

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Aleco
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Re: A Different Tensioner Question

#2 Post by Aleco »

Interesting question, from my experience of cars with timing chains is that they are by and large a life of car item.
I currently have a 2005 Toyota rav 4 with 150000miles under its wheels with no indications of chain tensioner being worn out.
I appreciate the sprint engine is older in design but I can't see why it wouldn't last well beyond 50k miles provided its a decent brand

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Re: A Different Tensioner Question

#3 Post by Magenta Auto Sprint »

I have been pondering the same question as my 1973 1850 has just turned 50,000. Should I look at the timing chain or leave it.

I guess another factor would be valve timing, if you can determine how far out the timing is, then that would indicate how worn the chain is.

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Re: A Different Tensioner Question

#4 Post by Carledo »

Many years ago, I owned a 1975 Saab 99, the engine in this, as most of you know, is the one developed from the Dolomite slant. This was a carefully maintained, one owner car, with a full and complete service history, but it had already covered over 150K miles when I bought it in circa 1982. A year or 2 later, now showing 171K the timing chain tensioner actually failed, but without catastrophic results, I was able to replace the tensioner, chain and guides and carry on. At the time, I used a genuine BL Sprint tensioner because it was about half the price of a genuine Saab one!

So on a well maintained slant, an OE spec tensioner (and the chain) should last in excess of 150,000 miles!

I still wonder to this day, whether this Saab motor (and the related 99 Turbo engine) with it's belt driven water pump, could be used in a Sprint. I Know it's fitted ar*e about face in the Saab and has a gearbox where the sump should be, but none of that affects the fact that the block casting is related directly to the Triumph block, the Sprint sump and gearbox adaptor plate SHOULD fit it!

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xvivalve
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Re: A Different Tensioner Question

#5 Post by xvivalve »

Used to reckon on 80k + on a Sprint back in the day.

Isn't the SAAB engine also installed with cylinders vertical?
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Re: A Different Tensioner Question

#6 Post by Jon Tilson »

Agree with Alun.
Regular oil changes and a slant of any sort should do 80k at least on a timing chain. Mine all have.

Stags have a harder life and received wisdom is around 40k on the V8.

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Re: A Different Tensioner Question

#7 Post by tony g »

This is the worrying aspect. If the original parts were not up to todays standards (as a lot of leyland stuff wasnt), finding the "holy grail" new old stock parts may be as disappointing now as they were in the 70's. I know the oils are far superior these days and servicing is probably more stringent by us enthusiasts than a garage doing the work when our cars were just "normal".

Tony
MikeyB wrote: Sat Jul 01, 2017 6:58 pm I fitted a brand new BL boxed Renold tensionor 6,500 miles ago & it's suspect. Yet to strip the car but I'll let you know when I take it apart.
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Bumpa
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Re: A Different Tensioner Question

#8 Post by Bumpa »

All this talk of chain tensioners leaves with a dilemma. My 1850 has only driven about 60,000 from new. In my photo you can see the tensioner, which I am sure is the original one fitted by Triumph. It has two distinct grooves on it.

The question is, should I leave it alone, or should I replace it, and if so, from whom should I buy the replacement? Over to you.
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Mike
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Re: A Different Tensioner Question

#9 Post by Jon Tilson »

Completely normal wear pattern and fit for at least another 20k miles.

If it aint broke dont fix it...:-) but it depends what you want to do/

TR7 and stags use the same bits so supply is not an issue. Robsport and co have decent ones, but I'd reset and reuse that one myself being
a cheapskate.


1850's give plenty of warning as the tensioner reaches the limit and the chain starts to rattle.

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Re: A Different Tensioner Question

#10 Post by Bumpa »

Thanks Jonners, I'll leave it alone then. What do you mean by "reset it"? I'm unfamiliar with most things Triumph-related.
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Re: A Different Tensioner Question

#11 Post by cleverusername »

MikeyB wrote: Sat Jul 01, 2017 6:58 pm I fitted a brand new BL boxed Renold tensionor 6,500 miles ago & it's suspect. Yet to strip the car but I'll let you know when I take it apart.
New old stock? The problem with that is rubber parts and seals will dry out on the shelf with age, so eventually even well made new old stock is going to be suspect.
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Re: A Different Tensioner Question

#12 Post by Jon Tilson »

You can set the tensioner to its fully in position, tighten the chain by adjusting the curved guide and then release the tensioner so it springs out.
Some work on a push in to release mechanism and some have an allen key access hole to twist and release the ratchet from its end peg.

You will see how it works when its all off.

Jonners
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Bumpa
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Re: A Different Tensioner Question

#13 Post by Bumpa »

You can set the tensioner to its fully in position, tighten the chain by adjusting the curved guide and then release the tensioner so it springs out.
Some work on a push in to release mechanism and some have an allen key access hole to twist and release the ratchet from its end peg.
Thanks. I didn't know that. :oops:
Mike
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Re: A Different Tensioner Question

#14 Post by GlenM »

xvivalve wrote: Sat Jul 01, 2017 5:10 pm Used to reckon on 80k + on a Sprint back in the day.

Isn't the SAAB engine also installed with cylinders vertical?
The Saab engines are over at 45 degrees just like the Triumph slants.

If a 2.0/2.3litre 16v turbo could be made to fit in a Dolomite that would make a superb car. Apparently, because of the GM takeover of Saab in 1989, the Omega gearbox will go straight onto a Saab engine.
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Hmmm.......

#15 Post by sprint95m »

I have always thought that the problem was with the actual timing chain wearing (becoming noisy) first?

Some Nissan engines don't actually get noisy, but refuse to start because the chain has stretched so much that the ignition timing is then too far off.


When replacing the timing chain, as a matter of douse a new tensioner and guides are fitted?
That's what I do, at any rate.




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