RUK - Project Recommission 1972 'Dolomite' Auto

[James467]

Na, I just use this...



€8 from Carrefour, I need to get some more when I go over in August!

HIF44's look like they may need a TR7 manifold, if you can measure the bolt spacing and hole I'll measure my SU manifold.

[James467]

HIF44's look like they may need a TR7 manifold, if you can measure the bolt spacing and hole I'll measure my SU manifold.

No ignore that, HIF 4's are 1.5". You could in theory use the berg inlet as the inlets are the same size. I need the mounting dimensions to see if you would just be able to drill and tap two more holes to create a 4 hole mount for the HIF's.

Then you'd need to think about the throttle linkage connections and for me the kickdown connection.

[Jon Tilson]

IIRC HIF4's are the same 2 bolt angled fixings as the standard HS4's used on a dolly 1850 and 1500 and spit.

Sprints and TR7's use HS6's with 4 bolt fixings...

HIF44's are what I think is on my P6 and are a metric equivalent to an HS6 but in HIF format (integral float)

so should be the theoretical match for a CD175 or CD150 berg with 4 bolts.

[Karlos]

Na, I just use this...



€8 from Carrefour, I need to get some more when I go over in August!

HIF44's look like they may need a TR7 manifold, if you can measure the bolt spacing and hole I'll measure my SU manifold.

Is that a Bluecol equivalent?

[James467]

Is that a Bluecol equivalent?

Er.... good question!

[Jon Tilson]

Interestingly and sorry for being slightly off topic but my bro in law recently had a tuned engine stuck in his MGB.

Revisiting a lost youth I suppose.

Anyway it was supposed to be worth 125 bhp. Hmmmm now that is optimistic for any B series but
still on the HIF4's it came with? I asked the old school dude's putting it together what they thought. They seemed to know their stuff
as they build historic racers, but then they are all on side draughts.

So if you can get 125 bhp out of an 8V iron headed push rod then the smaller carbs should work on an ohc ally headed one rated at 91bhp
- more realistic. Sadly I couldnt be there when it was rolling roaded and didnt see what was done needle wise or the real numbers.

Having driven them all when new I can say without doubt that Ive never seen an MGB live with an 1850 on the road. They just go progressively backwards in the mirror. A 1600 GT capri is faster. A spit 1500 is about the same as an 1850 and faster than an MGB IMHO. B's are quoted as 109 mph and about 10 to 60 in road tests of the time - must have tested a VERY well tuned one is all I can say.

Anyway I reckon there is mileage in the CD's on that info if you can get the jetting right higher up. Its a lot easier to do this on SU's as more needles are available and you can road test the results by pulling the choke.

Jonners

[SprintMWU773V]

Can't see a B series getting 125bhp as a standard 1800cc with those carbs, must be run on a pie in the sky dyno. Bore it out to 2 litres, stick some webers and a funky cam on it then yes you will quite easily. A good race engine is closer to 170bhp but it will be almost undriveable on the road.

[Carledo]

My old (and almost completely stock) Volvo 122S Estate could outrun AND out corner a stock MGB. With almost the same capacity (9cc less) and a similar all iron 5 bearing motor, it had nearly 20 more horses at it's disposal! But outperforming a B is not exactly difficult!

I would have thought that with a decent fast road cam, a bit of flowing and port matching, some sort of 4 branch manifold plus a free flowing exhaust and a pair of 175CDs from a T2000, you ought to be able to extract 120 ish HP from an 1850 without sacrificing driveability.

Steve

[James467]

I would have thought that with a decent fast road cam, a bit of flowing and port matching, some sort of 4 branch manifold plus a free flowing exhaust and a pair of 175CDs from a T2000, you ought to be able to extract 120 ish HP from an 1850 without sacrificing driveability.

I agree but the box and rear axle probably wouldn't be able to handle it!

[James467]

So what's been happening then, well not a lot to be honest. I am still waiting for Burlen to deliver the carb parts, they have told me that they will arrive before the end of the week, well they told me that last week so we shall see.

On the electric system front I have sourced a new uprated Bosch alternator, it fits fine, just need to get a new belt for it. I also have a new plug as the old one had been removed and replaced with space terminals.

If you want one of these the part number is 0 986 030 760, they are pricey though!





I managed to source all of my headlights at a reasonable price, so I now have a full set of Cibie lenses and Osram H1 & H4 bulbs.





I just need to order the wiring and associated relays for this and they can be fitted, I thought I would do all this first whilst the rad is out and I have good access.

The plan for the wiring is to relay the headlamps, horn, cooling fan (already comes with one), the heated rear window and provision for extra driving lamps and a radio if I want. I want to do this without putting any additional load onto the existing loom, so I plan to take a feed from the battery into a new supplementary fuse box, then from that into a relay box keeping things neat and tidy. The existing wires for the headlights, horn and HR window will be used as the triggers so I should then be removing load from the existing loom. This will be sited around the battery with the Kenlowe Hotstart so I will fabricate some new mounts for everything.

I need to think about how I will wire up the sidelights to function when the ignition is on then turn off when the headlights come on, I may just get a standard kit for it and replace the led units with some LED 21W equivalent bulbs.

On Jonners' recommendation I have sourced some Bosch W8DP plugs, these have been gapped to 35 thou and are ready to be fitted.





I have also fitted the fan to the rad using the proper Spal fitting Kit. The 11" fan that they produce is a perfect fit for the Sprint/1850 rad. I don't like the through the rad fit, but it will work for the time being. The Spal kit uses stainless rods that don't damage the fins and seem to be much more secure.





I have also fitted the Revotec fan controller to the top hose. It makes more sense to fit it here plus that's where the instructions say to fit it!



Getting there slowly!

[Mahesh]

Great photography as always,

[new to this]

James

thats a handy picture of the rad,didn't know the horns,were mounted on it,the day time running lights why not leave them as they are, on all the time

Dave

[Carledo]

I would have thought that with a decent fast road cam, a bit of flowing and port matching, some sort of 4 branch manifold plus a free flowing exhaust and a pair of 175CDs from a T2000, you ought to be able to extract 120 ish HP from an 1850 without sacrificing driveability.

I agree but the box and rear axle probably wouldn't be able to handle it!

Use a Sprint autobox, with it's tougher clutches and a Sprint cooler. The 3.27 should be ok with those horses through a slushbox which takes a lot of the shocks out of the driveline. You don't want too peaky a cam with an auto as you need both very low down grunt and a smooth, slow idle or you'll be left foot braking, just to keep it going in traffic - which would ruin the car!

Steve

[soe8m]

I would have thought that with a decent fast road cam, a bit of flowing and port matching, some sort of 4 branch manifold plus a free flowing exhaust and a pair of 175CDs from a T2000, you ought to be able to extract 120 ish HP from an 1850 without sacrificing driveability.

Steve

My LPG fuel injected 1850 had std sprint power, about 105 at the rear wheels. Only raised the compression ratio to the max. Std cam and exhaust manifold. Only a good exhaust, a Bell. A mechanical fan at full revs does also "eat" 5 bhp.

Jeroen

[GlenM]

I need to think about how I will wire up the sidelights to function when the ignition is on then turn off when the headlights come on, I may just get a standard kit for it and replace the led units with some LED 21W equivalent bulbs.

Run the ignition feed through the Normally Closed contacts (30 & 87a) on a relay and on to the sidelights. Run a feed from your headlights to the coil in the relay (85), earth the other side (86), then when you turn on your headlights the NC contact will open and cut the ignition feed to the sidelights.