I was just wondering if this is a known problem: Changing down from 3rd to 2nd takes rather more force than any other gear change, even 4th to 2nd. I was wondering if it might be a lazy synchro. But there's never any grinding of the gears like if I change without disengaging the clutch properly, even if I rush the change. Just a bit more resistance than with any other gears. And 4th to 2nd isn't the same problem. Also wiggling the stick left to right, or pushing towards 1st on the way - but not into gear - seem to help a bit.
I have a complete spare box and overdrive. But I don't want to go there while it's just a minor issue - it doesn't seem to be getting any worse, and it been like this for some time, possibly since I got the car.
Graham.
Stiff chage down into second gear
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GrahamFountain
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Stiff chage down into second gear
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Re: Stiff chage down into second gear
What grade oil are you using? If 90 it may be worth trying 75/80 (gl4)
Tony
Tony
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GrahamFountain
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Re: Stiff chage down into second gear
It is 90 IIRC, but would that not affect the other changes as well?
Graham
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
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GrahamFountain
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Re: Stiff chage down into second gear
No, much the same at all temperatures.
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
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dollyman
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Re: Stiff chage down into second gear
Possibly a sychro problem? how about when using double declutch method?
Tony.
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Re: Stiff chage down into second gear
Tony
How do you double declutch
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dollyman
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Re: Stiff chage down into second gear
As above 
Very good article that
Its how i was taught many years ago and it never goes away 
Tony.
Very good article that
Its how i was taught many years ago and it never goes away Tony.
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Jon Tilson
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Re: Stiff chage down into second gear
Have you checked the state of lubrication of the gear stick base? Years ago I had a stiff change, so I took the tunnel covers off and greased
the gearstick base under the sprung cup where it goes on the box remote extension.
You just need to do the tray and carpet and rubber grommet. The main tunnel can stay in place.
No crunching means the synchros are probably ok... when its greased you will tell better.
Jonners
the gearstick base under the sprung cup where it goes on the box remote extension.
You just need to do the tray and carpet and rubber grommet. The main tunnel can stay in place.
No crunching means the synchros are probably ok... when its greased you will tell better.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
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GrahamFountain
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Re: Stiff chage down into second gear
It does seem to help if I blip the throttle, or wait for the car to slow, or just firmly hold the stick against the gear (if that makes sense). But double cluching itself doesn't seem to make much if any difference - though it's not a skill I'm practiced at.
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
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GrahamFountain
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Re: Stiff chage down into second gear
I haven't tried that yet. I should, because I was down there replacing the overdrive feed not so long back, but I forgot till it was all back together. I'm hoping the lack of crunch is a good sign, though that a blip seems to help it drop in worries me.Jon Tilson wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 2017 11:06 pm Have you checked the state of lubrication of the gear stick base? Years ago I had a stiff change, so I took the tunnel covers off and greased
the gearstick base under the sprung cup where it goes on the box remote extension.
You just need to do the tray and carpet and rubber grommet. The main tunnel can stay in place.
No crunching means the synchros are probably ok... when its greased you will tell better.
Jonners
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
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dollyman
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Re: Stiff chage down into second gear
hi Graham, It sounds to me to be a sychro fault,as blipping the throttle is nearly double de clutching. Although i would try "Jonners" fix first or try changing the oil to a thinner spec. Also make sure it is gl4.
I would always start at the cheapest way first and then work your way up if thats any help?
Cheers, Tony.
or try changing the oil to a thinner spec. Also make sure it is gl4.I would always start at the cheapest way first and then work your way up if thats any help?
Cheers, Tony.
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