Rear hub oil seal replacement on a Sprint ?

[Mad Mart]

I don't believe this, surely you need to take 58773 off and undo bolts 112653 etc and pull the half shaft out before you can get at the inner oil seal?

Correct. You have to remove the hub & half shaft as an assembly but you don't need to pull the hub from the shaft.

[shaunroche]

Ahh,. So do you still need a puller then to pull the half shaft assy out, or will it all come out as one assy?

[Galileo]

A surprisingly quick job when I did mine after the MOT man said there was a lack of braking effort and unequal braking across the axle, one side was brake fluid on the shoes, the other axle oil. No puller needed, comes straight out of the diff with a gentle tug and slides all the way out.

Undo


Remove


Replace (actually a gearbox nose seal bought from a local seal specialist)


Grease (check clear)


Make tea.

[shaunroche]

Well, there you go then! Did the old seal come out OK btw?

I have ordered the gearbox type seals after reading this thread earlier in the week, but ordered the outer seals as well, which I now think was a waste of time!

Out of interest, did you replace the large (paper) gasket, the one with the six holes in it or add any blue hylomar type of thing to the joint or just bang it all back up again?

**Edit**Hang on...is that where an adjusting shim goes?

Anyhoo, thanks once again chaps, the help's worth the membership fees alone!

[Galileo]

I managed to find an old battered cold chisel that by pure luck tapped in just enough and I managed to twist it out enough to get some leverage behind it. Jonners posted something awhile back about a homemade tool he concocted to hoike it out easily. Actually, think it was him that also said that the outer hub seals very rarely go, and they are the ones that need a ships torque wrench and puller to shift!

Yeah you're right, there is no gasket, just the metal shims that sit behind the backplate, apparently, you need to check for the right endfloat, I went with they have been on there for 42 years I'm guessing it's right.

Here are the relevant bits from the Triumph ROM, no idea why it mentions 51.10.03, doesn't seem to exist!

[Carledo]

I don't believe this, surely you need to take 58773 off and undo bolts 112653 etc and pull the half shaft out before you can get at the inner oil seal?

I resurrect this thread as I have this very problem and have ordered new seals and will have a go at it this weekend!

Remove the wheel and brake drum, knock back the locktabs and undo the 6 bolts 112653 then simply pull the shaft and hub assembly out of the axle case. replace the inner seal which is in the axle case with the front gearbox seal 141756 and reassemble. Seemples!!!

The outer seal is only to keep grease in the hub separate from the axle oil and almost NEVER fails, traces of grease on the brakes is usually down to over-enthusiastic greasing of rear hub bearings and is self curing!

Steve

[tony g]

When you undo the bolts holding the hub and backplate on,the half shaft just pulls out then the inner seal is visible in the axle tube. Change that one. The outer one is just to keep grease in the hub.. Dont lose the shims!

Tony

[shaunroche]

Thanks for all your help chaps...was fairly straightforward in the end... the biggest problems were getting the old seal out and the fact that it is dark earlier in the evenings!
Got the old seal out, eventually, and back together on Friday night and then took all the brakes off and cleaned them up in the sunshine on Saturday.
Regarding the seal, I had to put it in with the flat face outwards as in the view below, rather than the other way around as I only had a socket that was a bit smaller than the axle tube, rather than the same size as the axle tube id if you see what I mean?
Can't see it would make any difference would it?








Anyway, as I said, thanks for the advice and enthusiasm, much appreciated!

[Carledo]

QUE?

It's supposed to be flat face outwards! If the old one was the other way round, it's no wonder it leaked!

Steve

[shaunroche]

QUE?

It's supposed to be flat face outwards! If the old one was the other way round, it's no wonder it leaked!

Steve

Good, that's how I fitted it!

The original had a flat face on both sides like a doughnut, that's why I wondered.

[shaunroche]

Just when you thought it was safe to go back into the water!

Well, having had both rear oil seals replaced professionally, oil has reappeared in the brake hub – oil doesn’t appear to be leaking from the seal down the inside of the back plate, but out through the area with the red ring round it…I cant be sure though if I'm honest as theres loads of oil all around the studs poking through as though it's coming out of there...who knows!



....the back plate is bone dry: the black stuff you can see on the edge is sealant I put around it as it looked like oil was coming out of there.....

Answers on a post card please

[shaunroche]

Bump!

Come on, help me out please!

[MIG Wielder]

Its not the breather valve blocked on the Sprint axle is it ? I'm familiar with the 1850 one ... but not where it is on the Sprint.
Tony.

[shaunroche]

Hi Tony, dont think so: it's on the top back side of the diff casing I think and I poked some wire through it thinking that recently.

[gmsclassics]

You've got three potential sources - diff oil kept in place by the inner seal, grease in the bearing kept from leaking out onto the hub by another seal and of course brake fluid leaking. Diff oil as you say is usually seen on the backplate, but if that is fully sealed both sides by silicone for example, it has the potential to travel through the bearing and then the outer seal. Over greasing can also push grease through the outer seal and if hot and melted can resemble dried on oil perhaps.

I suggest you'll only find out by dismantling (as I did just recently). Then my advice would be new seals, bearing and outer seal, unless what you find convinces you it isn't grease leaking and the outer seal isn't compromised. Difficult job getting the hub and bearing off, big hydraulic press needed and an operator who knows what they are doing. I used to do it routinely with the race car, but last month it was the blue car's first time since 1978 and it was hard work at each step of the way.

Let us know how you get on.

Geoff

PS - when racing I found it necessary to use a Castrol high temperature bearing grease (all round) and had endless problems with half shafts distorting (on high speed corners with very grippy tyres) enough to let oil past the inner seals. The best seals I found were the ones used on the gearbox input shaft. If synthetic diff oil gets on brake linings, then the only option is to replace as they can't be cleaned.