OK so the job I've been stalling on starts this afternoon. I'm going to swap my cracked vinyl dash for a good used one.
so its full dash removal, instruments, wood and dash surround
any pointers before I start?
I expect it to take a few days working on and off so not in any mad rush
cheers
Gary
dashboard swap starts today
- yorkshire_spam
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Re: dashboard swap starts today
Can't give specific advice as I'm new to Triumph small saloons.... but generic advice would be that if you have a camera phone take pictures of everything as you remove/disconnect. That way if you forget something you have a reference when it comes to putting it back.
- xvivalve
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Re: dashboard swap starts today
HL?
The knobs on the heater/blower control levers simply pull off with a robust tug. The dash will then draw forwards over the levers with no further action necessary at the heater.
Air vent hoses are a friction fit on the rear of the roses.
The instrument panel has its own sub loom, so you can remove it complete by finding the multi plug connector and the speedo cable once you've removed the four screws and drawn it forward as far as you can. The speedo cable will either be a screw on ferrule to the back of the head unit, or a slightly more awkward bayonet affair (grey plastic)
Time clock is easy, accessed by removing the glovebox inner card moulding
Choke cable needs disconnecting at carbs, and the electrical connection to rear of fag lighter (alternatively, you could undo the two screws that hold this plastic binnacle to the underside of the dash and leave it in situ, but often at least one of the two screws refuses to budge!)
The metal trim beneath the 'screen is three simple screws, once removed reveals some of the dash fixing bolts.
More dash fixing bolts into the sides of the A posts.
Don't think I've forgotten anything...helps if you slacken the steering column clamp and let the wheel drop downwards.
Beware, some of the metal brackets behind the dash have sharp edges and can damage hands and upholstery alike!
The knobs on the heater/blower control levers simply pull off with a robust tug. The dash will then draw forwards over the levers with no further action necessary at the heater.
Air vent hoses are a friction fit on the rear of the roses.
The instrument panel has its own sub loom, so you can remove it complete by finding the multi plug connector and the speedo cable once you've removed the four screws and drawn it forward as far as you can. The speedo cable will either be a screw on ferrule to the back of the head unit, or a slightly more awkward bayonet affair (grey plastic)
Time clock is easy, accessed by removing the glovebox inner card moulding
Choke cable needs disconnecting at carbs, and the electrical connection to rear of fag lighter (alternatively, you could undo the two screws that hold this plastic binnacle to the underside of the dash and leave it in situ, but often at least one of the two screws refuses to budge!)
The metal trim beneath the 'screen is three simple screws, once removed reveals some of the dash fixing bolts.
More dash fixing bolts into the sides of the A posts.
Don't think I've forgotten anything...helps if you slacken the steering column clamp and let the wheel drop downwards.
Beware, some of the metal brackets behind the dash have sharp edges and can damage hands and upholstery alike!
Re: dashboard swap starts today
Thanks, it’s now out and the replacement fixed in.
About to put back all the bits and bobs.
Didn’t have to touch the choke, forget to say it’s a sprint. Guess that’s the difference.
Fingers crossed.
About to put back all the bits and bobs.
Didn’t have to touch the choke, forget to say it’s a sprint. Guess that’s the difference.
Fingers crossed.
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Re: dashboard swap starts today
It’s in and working correctly
Not too bad really. Bit fiddly at times but nothing like as bad as an MGB dashboard.
Happy new year to all ( and new dashboard to me too)
Not too bad really. Bit fiddly at times but nothing like as bad as an MGB dashboard.
Happy new year to all ( and new dashboard to me too)