Sorry, no idea how to help, but you'll get more views (and more replies) if you post this in the main Dolomite-related section of the forum.
Good luck.
Sprint door lock
Hmmm.......
It sounds to me like the lock itself is at fault.
A struggle it will be, but if this is so you will need to remove the door trim panel, which may require the driver's seat
to be removed for access.
Once the trim panel is off, you can disconnect the locking knob's rod from the lock itself
and then manipulate the lock's lugs to unlock the door.
hope this helps,
Ian.
PS I'll move this to the "Dolomite Related" section...
A struggle it will be, but if this is so you will need to remove the door trim panel, which may require the driver's seat
to be removed for access.
Once the trim panel is off, you can disconnect the locking knob's rod from the lock itself
and then manipulate the lock's lugs to unlock the door.
hope this helps,
Ian.
PS I'll move this to the "Dolomite Related" section...
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Re: Sprint door lock
I'm sure I can find you a serviceable drivers door latch mechanism.
I recently acquired a half restored Sprint, 2 doors jammed shut and locked, 1 door needing "persuasion" to unlock or open and one door that didn't fit but did at least open and close.
Lubrication and adjustment solved the sticking N/S/R door, lubrication and persuasion got the O/S/R open and more perseverance got it working properly. I'm rebuilding the unsalvageable O/S/F door which only leaves the N/S/F to deal with.
It seems to be a common-ish problem with cars that are used infrequently, i'm not sure why, maybe something to do with the original grease solidifying and binding everything up. My usual method is to drown everything in WD40 to wash away the old grease and get the door unlocked and open by removing the rods and working the lock and latch bars directly. Then I remove and clean the latch and use white m/cycle chain grease to lube it before refitting.
Hope this helps, Steve
I recently acquired a half restored Sprint, 2 doors jammed shut and locked, 1 door needing "persuasion" to unlock or open and one door that didn't fit but did at least open and close.
Lubrication and adjustment solved the sticking N/S/R door, lubrication and persuasion got the O/S/R open and more perseverance got it working properly. I'm rebuilding the unsalvageable O/S/F door which only leaves the N/S/F to deal with.
It seems to be a common-ish problem with cars that are used infrequently, i'm not sure why, maybe something to do with the original grease solidifying and binding everything up. My usual method is to drown everything in WD40 to wash away the old grease and get the door unlocked and open by removing the rods and working the lock and latch bars directly. Then I remove and clean the latch and use white m/cycle chain grease to lube it before refitting.
Hope this helps, Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.