Downpipe bolt Sprint

[cleverusername]

Has anyone got any hints about how to get in the bolt nearest the block on the downpipe? I can't see or reach the damn thing to get a bolt on it.

[Mad Mart]

I usually remove the heater then use the ring end of a 9/16" combination spanner. You have to do it by feel and only a flat at a time iirc.

[xvivalve]

Yep, as above, though I have an offset head ring spanner that allows two flats at a time.

If you want new bolts, I bought a small quantity a while ago so I could send three to a member in Australia; I have 17 left!

[cleverusername]

I am guessing you used a stud? I am trying to put it on with just a nut and bolt combination.

[xvivalve]

Do not use a nut and bolt combination; the action of the heat means you'll have to cut it off next time!

Use a stud and brass nut if you must, but if assembling with the engine in the car you'll likely have clearance issues trying to get the downpipe squarely aligned with the manifold flange over the protruding studs.

The best solution is the original design of bolts into the helicoiled manifold flange; it may not seem so, but trust me, it is.

[Mad Mart]

The best solution is the original design of bolts into the helicoiled manifold flange; it may not seem so, but trust me, it is.

[cleverusername]

Do not use a nut and bolt combination; the action of the heat means you'll have to cut it off next time!

Use a stud and brass nut if you must, but if assembling with the engine in the car you'll likely have clearance issues trying to get the downpipe squarely aligned with the manifold flange over the protruding studs.

The best solution is the original design of bolts into the helicoiled manifold flange; it may not seem so, but trust me, it is.

That never occurred to me. Which size helicoil would I need?

[xvivalve]

3/8" UNF

I acquired a car that had nut and bolt adaptation at this join and had to remove the manifold and downpipe together in order to cut the bolts out!