engine oil specification
- Toledo Man
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Re: engine oil specification
Any decent brand of 20W50 should do the trick.
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Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
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West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
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Re: engine oil specification
Best? I would suggest miller's CSS 20/60. Holds excellent oil pressure and copes well with an engine being used hard. There is a motul oil that may be better still, but no experience myself.
However, if the car is not going to be driven hard or over long fast journeys, there are plenty of 20/50 oils that will cope just fine.
However, if the car is not going to be driven hard or over long fast journeys, there are plenty of 20/50 oils that will cope just fine.
Clive Senior
Brighton
Brighton
- yorkshire_spam
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Re: engine oil specification
I would say it depends on how you use the car.
In the 1500 Spitfire I generally use a "quality" 20w50 - millers etc.
HOWEVER when I run things like the CT RBRR (48 hours, 2000+ miles virtually non-stop) or the 10CR (4 days of hard climbing on Alpine passes) where the engine is going to be running warm for long periods I'll use either Valvoline VR1 20w50 or Penrite 20w60 classic light. Under those running conditions I think it's worth the extra £££ for the oil.
In the 1500 Spitfire I generally use a "quality" 20w50 - millers etc.
HOWEVER when I run things like the CT RBRR (48 hours, 2000+ miles virtually non-stop) or the 10CR (4 days of hard climbing on Alpine passes) where the engine is going to be running warm for long periods I'll use either Valvoline VR1 20w50 or Penrite 20w60 classic light. Under those running conditions I think it's worth the extra £££ for the oil.
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Re: engine oil specification
https://www.classiccars4sale.net/classi ... assic-oils
This is worth a read
I would also avoid classic oils sold in gallon cans as it is reclaimed oil
It is sold under various brands such as "motorway" and is total s**t.
Tony.
This is worth a read


Tony.
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Re: engine oil specification
Don't forget that Club members get discounts on oil at a number of suppliers, see the Club Discounts Forum.
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Are you enjoying using our forum? If so why not support the owners club which provides it by joining The Triumph Dolomite Club? Help us to preserve these great cars for future generations.
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Re: engine oil specification
Agreed, something with a metric tonne of ZDDP in it it like Valvoline VR1 gets my vote for a modern oil, if you want a period perfect match for what the car left the factory with:dollyman wrote: ↑Tue Jun 26, 2018 9:45 am https://www.classiccars4sale.net/classi ... assic-oils
This is worth a readI would also avoid classic oils sold in gallon cans as it is reclaimed oil
It is sold under various brands such as "motorway" and is total s**t.
Tony.
https://www.ryeoil.co.uk/shop/classic-2 ... ine-oil-2/
Current fleet: '75 Sprint, '73 1850, Daihatsu Fourtrak, Honda CG125, Yamaha Fazer 600, Shetland 570 (yes it's a boat!)
Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3
Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3
Re: engine oil specification
As sold in most supermarkets, Asda, Tesco, B&Q etc. it will state on the bottle that it is recycled or blended oil. I bought a bulk load from B&Q which I use as a quick engine flush.dollyman wrote: ↑Tue Jun 26, 2018 9:45 am https://www.classiccars4sale.net/classi ... assic-oils
avoid classic oils sold in gallon cans as it is reclaimed oilIt is sold under various brands such as "motorway" and is total s**t.
Tony.
I use either Comma or Halfords classic 20/50 oil and despite many people saying your engine will explode and seize if you use it I've never had a problem.
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- SprintMWU773V
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Re: engine oil specification
Too much ZDDP can be bad just to confuse things. To be fair ZDDP is more important on engines with cam follower buckets than an OHV. However I agree, something half decent will do. I would avoid anything with seal swell additives though as these can just cause more problems.
Mark
1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30
1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30
Re: engine oil specification
That's why I mentioned that basic 20/50 60's formulation as it would match a 60/50s design engine like the 1300/1500, the company themselves say ' A 20w50 is a simple oil to manufacture with a low additive range. If it was okay in the 50’s for a 50’s car, why wouldn’t it be okay today. Don’t fall into the trap of paying more for additives you don’t need.'
Current fleet: '75 Sprint, '73 1850, Daihatsu Fourtrak, Honda CG125, Yamaha Fazer 600, Shetland 570 (yes it's a boat!)
Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3
Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3
Re: engine oil specification
My 1969 volvo 145 does like fresh oil very much and takes good care that it gets some regulary.
I do put in champion classic 20w50 because my local shop does sell. When i'm on my way and the low oil level light goes on in the corners, the one with the oil can on it, and there's not enough oil in the can in the boot i put in whatever is around or to buy at a tankstop. After a good drive with a hot engine I can tell by the same light what oil is in. With the champion the light never goes on at idle and some others, also 20w50 it goes on. There are some differences in the 20w50's. The champion oil is very cheap and low quality and quality is not needed because it has no time to detoriate in that engine but it isn't alway's the price that tells.
Jeroen
I do put in champion classic 20w50 because my local shop does sell. When i'm on my way and the low oil level light goes on in the corners, the one with the oil can on it, and there's not enough oil in the can in the boot i put in whatever is around or to buy at a tankstop. After a good drive with a hot engine I can tell by the same light what oil is in. With the champion the light never goes on at idle and some others, also 20w50 it goes on. There are some differences in the 20w50's. The champion oil is very cheap and low quality and quality is not needed because it has no time to detoriate in that engine but it isn't alway's the price that tells.
Jeroen
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Re: engine oil specification
Its also worth noting that the oil change interval is 6000 miles on a 1300/1500.
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