Head Removal - Help Please

[YoungManGoneWest]

Right, time to return to this now that various other 'projects' have departed. Quick question for the moment: where/who is recommended please for the requisite Payen gasket set. Thanks.
Regards.

[cliftyhanger]

http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.asp ... ehicleId=2

As an aside, while the head is off is an ideal time to give the exhaust manifold and downpipe a little attention. I use a file to make sure both are flat on their mating face. (and consider replacing the studs if they are bad. I had a broken one and 2 manky ones, so drilled out and tapped to 10mm, which causes a small issue that the new gasket needs carefully opening up, and really cap head bolts to replace the studs. But no more blowing gaskets!)

[Toledo Man]

I'd like to add that the downpipe should be bolted to the gearbox bracket as well. This will help to prevent the manifold/downpipe joint from leaking and it will stop the exhaust from banging against the chassis rail.

[Stephenread]

I recently purchased this car from Richard and am working through this job (helped by the replies above). Having got the head off and had it cleaned etc, I'm unsure as to whether I should buy new studs, washers, nuts for the block and head or just cleaning the originals should be fine?

Thanks

Stephen

[Carledo]

Some new head nuts is always a good idea. Unless the studs are noticeably devoid of thread, they should be fine, just give them a clean up and a film of light oil.

Steve

[Stephenread]

Cheers Steve, will do.

Thanks also for the recommendation of Head Technique - picked it up yesterday but looks so good to put the rest of the car to shame!

Stephen

[yorkshire_spam]

Maybe not everyone's opinion.... but if you can re-use head studs and they are in good condition do so. If you are short of a couple I might have some in a box somewhere you can have.
If they are not re-usable (and you can't get some old ones in good condition) then consider an ARP kit. They are expensive, but worth it.
Personally I'm not sure how much I''d trust new replacements from anyone other than ARP. Most probably it's my paranoia and they'd be fine.

[cliftyhanger]

if buying new nuts/washers you MUST NOT use std nuts or washers. They need to be specific head nuts and hardened washers. Otherwise you will be doing the gasket again shortly....

Canley classics are a good source of OHV stuff.

Oh, and I have always reused the studs/nuts/washers unless damaged.

[Carledo]

Our local friends at Fitchetts also have the correct head nuts in stock.

Steve

[Richard the old one]

I am learning something new almost every week on this discussion board. What is special about head nuts and washers?

[new to this]

I am learning something new almost every week on this discussion board. What is special about head nuts and washers?

I think there or should be high tensile steel

Dave

[Stephenread]

I've fitted most of the engine and ancillaries back together now but can't seem to see the block drain that was mentioned (or at least what I was expecting). Is this usually a tap or a brass or similar plug?

Thanks

Stephen

[yorkshire_spam]

I think on the 1500 block it's the "open" hole in the group of three "knobbles" shown here bottom left.
Certainly on the later engines/cars it's just a hex head plug not a tap.



Dunno why images on postimg seem broken.... try something else....
I yoinked an image out of google image search...

[Stephenread]

Thank you - easily spotted with that picture to help!

[cliftyhanger]

A good poke about in the hole with wire is often required as they can be so badly blocked up....
In fact I strongly recommend flushing the block, I push a garden hose, cut off dead square, against the drain hole. Obviously need to have another hose off somewhere, otherwise you will get very wet. And flushing the heater matrix is a fine idea while you are at it. Both ways, several times.