Steering lower flexible joint

[Aleco]

Hi All,
I'm currently working through replacing my lower steering shaft and the flexible joint.
I bought a new shaft and a UJ in place of the original flexible joint both from T D fichett.
The problem I'm having is that the whole assembly is now far to long to fit. The original shaft and flexible is in the order of 14 mm shorter.
I read a lot of the other posts regards changing the flexible for a UJ, it seems hit and miss as to whether there is clearance. Some need to cut and shorten the shaft while others don't, has anyone got to the bottom of why this is?
The new UJ is issue which is 80mm compared the original of ~67mm.
Any thoughts? How did you get round it?

I would reuse the original upper shaft but I had to cut through it as it had seized onto the lower joint.

I'll ring Fichetts in the morning and ask for their thoughts

Thanks

Alex

[Toledo Man]

I doubt that there's anything wrong with the parts you have bought. You might need to to push the UJ (part number 157659) a bit further into the lower flexible joint (part number 157657). I had a similar problem with my 1850 where the sterring column bulkhead bush would keep coming out. The join between the upper and lower parts is adjustable so you might need to push it in a bit further to take up the extra 14mm you mentioned.

Which Dolomite do you have? There were some variations with earlier models. The part numbers are from the post-1976 Dolomite range so I might be talking complete bollox if you have an earlier car.

Hope this helps any.

[soe8m]

It doesn't help but I had to do both. Some uj with shaft were pressed u/j and some were cast u/j. The same for the replacement for the flexi you can use either pressed or cast.

I think these are the differences. Never looked at it and when too long I shorten. I remember making a new bolt slot once in the shaft.

I use what I have or is available and it fits or make it fit. I don't like pushing in a shaft in an u/j furter than needed because some can bind in the centre at some angle.

Make sure that all moves freely is the most important and loosen the rack when fitting all. The rack has to be inline and will centre itself when all u/j's are fitted, even more important when having solid rack mounts.

Jeroen

[Aleco]

Thanks for the into guys.

My car is a 1973. Do you think the arrangement is different? The assembly will fit but there is no way I can push the pinch bolt through the UJ as it doesn't align with the bolt cut out on the shaft. Even with the maximum clearance and the UJ pushed to the max on the lower shaft there is no way it will fit.

Jeroen: Did you just cut the shaft and re weld? I'm definitely not a decent enough welder!

[soe8m]

Never had to weld. Only shorten and make a new slot in a shortened shaft where the bolt goes through.

Jeroen.

[Aleco]

Ah got it thanks Jeroen. I'd made a simple problem complicated!
Did you machine the new slot? I'm guessing that the shaft has been hardened

[Carledo]

The shaft isn't that hard at all! An angle grinder will elongate the flat face nicely!

And a cutting off disc will shorten it!

I've done this a few times now as Fitchetts (who are local to me, so my first port of call) no longer keep the original design of lower coupling, due to continued quality control issues with the ones currently available.

If you want to be really fussy about it, you can get a forged T2000 lower coupling from Chris Witor which is much nearer the correct length and probably stronger too. But, of course, rather more expensive!

If it helps (probably not) the amount by which the shaft needs shortening varies from car to car! I've just put it down to lousy 70s production tolerances.

Steve

As an afterthought to this, I tried to do this mod (with pressed lower coupling) to a well known 1500SE which also had the club 4 branch manifold fitted and the 2 bits interfered with each other! After several attempts to get clearance by cutting down bolts etc I had to admit defeat and dig out a seviceable used original lower coupling from my stock. And before anyone asks, I think it may have been the last decent one I had left!

S

[sprint95m]

If you want to be really fussy about it, you can get a forged T2000 lower coupling from Chris Witor which is much nearer the correct length and probably stronger too. But, of course, rather more expensive!

To be pedantic, the forged UJ is actually the upper joint for manual steering versions of the T2000 mark 2 range.
https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=145377RM


Ian

PS
(:D If you really want to go expensive, these UJs are sold as upgrades to Rally Spec for back wheel drive Ford Escorts!!)

[Aleco]

Once again great advice thanks guys.

I've pushed the boat out and ordered a forged UJ from Chris Witors and I'm going to stop on my way back from work at Screwfix for some new grinding and cutting discs so I can modify the shaft.
I'll let you know how I get on!

[Carledo]

Once again great advice thanks guys.

I've pushed the boat out and ordered a forged UJ from Chris Witors and I'm going to stop on my way back from work at Screwfix for some new grinding and cutting discs so I can modify the shaft.
I'll let you know how I get on!

Don't cut the shaft till you've offered up the new Witor coupling, you may not need to!

Steve

[Aleco]

Good thinking Steve! Thanks for the prompt!