To save me having to remove the grill and then the lamp metal surround, can someone tell me if the SE - square, well oblong - headlamp bulbs fitted are the common or garden BPF type of bulb. i would like to upgrade to halogen for a brighter light.
Have also had a belly full of clutch hydraulic problems: Fluid leaked so replaced slave, Lasted 3 months leaked again. Bought another, same make as the one that leaked, made in Italy. Then a few weeks later clutch went again, this time no leak but loads of air bubbles coming up pipe. Master cylinder found to be scored, so had to quickly get another off eBay, a Borg & Beck unit. Thus far no more leaks, here's hoping. But thankful for the recovery service that comes with classic insurance policy.
Steve, I created THIS thread which would've saved you asking the question.
Justyn, you are indeed correct. Original bulbs are the 410s. Halogen bulbs will need a relay to prevent the column stalk from burning out. It would be a good idea with tungsten bulbs too.
Toledo Man
West Yorkshire Area Organiser Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver) 2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car) 1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
eveshamcroft wrote: ↑Sun Sep 22, 2019 4:28 pm
To save me having to remove the grill and then the lamp metal surround, can someone tell me if the SE - square, well oblong - headlamp bulbs fitted are the common or garden BPF type of bulb. i would like to upgrade to halogen for a brighter light.
Have also had a belly full of clutch hydraulic problems: Fluid leaked so replaced slave, Lasted 3 months leaked again. Bought another, same make as the one that leaked, made in Italy. Then a few weeks later clutch went again, this time no leak but loads of air bubbles coming up pipe. Master cylinder found to be scored, so had to quickly get another off eBay, a Borg & Beck unit. Thus far no more leaks, here's hoping. But thankful for the recovery service that comes with classic insurance policy.
I hate the clutch system on the 1500, it gave me no end of problems. To be fair I think that had allot to do with the garbage parts which are on sale, even from more expensive classic specialists.
I had failed release bearings, sticking clutches, endless problems with hydraulics. I think the best bet is to change the seals in the original slave and master, if they are not too worn. Too many of the newer parts are hopeless.
The 1500cc seems to have more problem with the clutch hydraulics than the other engine sizes and I am attempting to get to the bottom of the fact that the official triumph parts manual gives a part number 158695 which is a different clutch master cylinder than the other OHV cars. Rimmers also state that it is different but a number of other suppliers supply the GMC1024 which has a 5/8 inch diameter piston. I have been look at some old clutch master cylinders that I have which I believe came from 1500 dolomites, one has a 3/4 inch diameter piston and another is stamped with 0.7 but the majority are 5/8. I have not been able to find anything on part number 158695. Does anyone have any info on this item?
I suspect most of us have 5/8 diameter fitted and it does work but I have done some calculations and believe that it may be on the bottom limit of what hydraulic fluid movement is required. When some play develops or a bit of air is left or gets into the system this is when the clutch does not fully disengage.
I am currently attempting to get Rimmers to tell me what the difference is between the 158695 and the GMC1024.
