Nina's restoration (JGU 214N)

[MIG Wielder]

Hi Kyle, Sorry about the late reply. I had a look at the photos you provided and based on my experience of the 1850 here are my comments.
IMG0315 : On the front valence the stone chip is doing its job well. It would be interesting to see the reverse of this panel , but oil drips from the crank pulley usually keep it rust free. Grind out the rust, rust proof and re-coat with stone chip and primer / paint.
0317 : My guess is that this is old parking damage which has been filled with a large gob of filler and painted. My guess is that a knock with a hammer will knock this out with a large area of rusty metal. I reckon the only solution here is a replacement wing, primed and sprayed in metal or GRP.
0318 : More of the same I feel. While you are looking at this corner can you have the headlamp trim off and look at the headlamp bracketry. When I had MPD years ago it failed the MOT on headlamp alignment. They took the covers off and the light units fell out ....
0341 : Ditto
0319 : This will be to OK to grind back and weld in new metal. Much better with the front wings off.
And while you are looking at this corner can you have the inner bolted mud-shields out. ( 4 bolts ). This will say a lot about the front end of the sills.
0320 : Ditto
0322 : Yup, A new lower door panel. While you are there can you remove the trim panel and look at the rest of the door from inside please.

This is my solution to the A-pillar rusting. The grommets are white pvc from one of the suppliers at the Resto; Show.
And the spray-cans are my preferred rust killers and protection. Other equally good cans are available.

HTH,
Tony.

[HQentity]

Hello all!

It's been a while but thought I would update with the latest, as this project is finally about to begin.

I've since developed a few problems that have taken Nina off the road - a leaking fuel tank among other things. I've just taken the tank out to have a look at it - including draining about 7 litres of fuel out. Is it fair to say this condition may be hiding a small fuel leak?

I've contacted several bodywork specialists to arrange appointments for estimates in January. Excited to get back!

[marshman]

Very possibly. I would clean the bottom of the tank off, gentle hand wire brush only - preferably brass, a recently drained fuel tank will be full of flammable vapours. Rub it over with a dry rag to get the bottom clean and dry. Pour you 7 litres back in and slosh it around. Any small pin holes will quickly reveal themselves as the fuel will seep through, if very small they will just appear as damp patches. Once pin pointed you then have to decide what to do. A "slosh tank" sealant is a reasonable temporary repair that can last a long time on minor, localised pinholes. Otherwise you really need to get new metal welded in or replace the tank.

Roger

[MIG Wielder]

Hi Kyle, I guess that tank has originally come from a breaker's yard from the ident in paint on it. I think you may find there has been a previous repair as looking at the last piccy it looks like the bottom of the tank has been repainted.
Yes a brass wire brush would be good for removing all that paint that looks as if it is petrol soluble. Probably Hammerite.
As an alternative, if you have one of those soft metal ceramic hob scrapers that would work as well.
Good luck with it,
Tony.

[HQentity]

I had a bodywork specialist take a look at Nina this morning, and he would like a few parts!

- The boot floor, there is a seam that runs the width of the car, maybe 6 inches up to the rear inner valence - is this piece available?

- Rear wheel arch/wing repair panels, that include the front of the arch

- 2 front wings (GRP club?)

- NSR & OSF door repairs (club)

[MIG Wielder]

Hi Kyle, I've done this rear valance bit on CWL some time ago. In my case the inner valance was O.K. it was the outer it needed, so I put in a part panel to the line just below the indicators and then down to the seam you refer too. It was a lot more that just a 6in section but mine was quite bad.
To answer your questions.
* The boot floor is available as a pattern part from Rimmers; the spare wheel well could be deeper. Try 910050P.
* The rear valance is available from Rimmers as a genuine B.L. part. See 715704. ( This is the bit I think you will need.)
* The rear inner valance is also available; not sure if this is a genuine part or not. See 715520.
* The strengthener will probably be needed as well: 817447. Looks like its NLA so will have to be fabricated.
* Rear wheel arch / wing repair is available from the Club.
See https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... =4&t=31388
* NSR and OSF door repair sections are available from the Club.
* Both front wings in GRP are available from the Club.
Happy 2020 !
HTH,
Tony.

[triumphdolomiteuk]

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... =4&t=31388
Boot floors from the Club.

[HQentity]

Yes indeed. Thanks for all of that, I will drop an email to the bodywork man and see how I get on, thanks!

The picture on the club parts for the rear wing repair only shows the rear edge of the wheel arch? Does it include the front edge?

[MIG Wielder]

Hi Kyle, Have a look at Item "W" on the 2nd page on the link :- £38.
I think this is the bit you need,
Tony.

[HQentity]

Well, what can I say! I don't know how I managed to miss that one haha! Thanks Tony!

[HQentity]

Got some quotes today for the work.

The first place I visited would do nothing less than a full restoration - they wanted to take EVERYTHING out down to the shell and put it in the skip, dip the shell in acid, rebuild and paint, then replace everything with new parts, 18 months, £40,000. I said I'd get back to them.

The second place, Whites Bodyworks, originally quoted £7,000 for a bare metal respray on the outside of the car, based on what I needed to be done. When they saw the car today they quoted 200 hours for the work - repairing doors, fabricating around the windscreen, replacing both front wings, replacing basically everything 1m up from the ground. £65/h, £13,000 total. Can start work in February and finish in April.

The last place were unbelievably arrogant, didn't even acknowledge me for the first 5 minutes (he was on the phone though), then spent a good few minutes just explaining how successful he was. Asked me if I'd ever heard of polish (in defence I did explain the car has not moved since July! ). Will get back to me with an "expensive" estimate in 1 weeks time, and can't start the work until August, because he's very successful. Did I mention he's really successful?

So thinking Whites bodyworks? Has anyone got an opinion about them? Seemed really genuine and have a large portfolio! Quite expensive though?

[MIG Wielder]

Hi Kyle,
Interesting ! Very much the same as when I took the MG in for quotes.
When you get the official quotes in ..
* Do they include VAT at the current rate ? This is usually an extra as the current VAT rate changes from time to time.
* Have they done a list of the full panel work to be done ? Anything missing ?
* Is there a bit of a killer phrase in the conditions that says " Customer responsible for provision of all suitable repair panels at their cost " Are they happy fitting and spraying any GRP panels ?
* That figure of £65 per hour is O.K. for where I am in Berkshire. Not sure about your part of the world.
It is a lot cheaper if you go North to say the wilds of Lincolnshire as I believe I mentioned previously .
* What deposit will they require ? Will there be stage payments i.e after welding ---> Prep ---> Primer ---> top coat ---> Finish & retrim .
* Will they do stage by stage photos ?
* Will they be spraying underbonnet etc;
* Will they be doing cavity wax etc;
* What colour and shade will they be spraying in. Will they be doing cellulose or 2-pack etc ? Are you thinking of a colour change ? Can you provide them with a paint code. ?
* What Insurance is provided while the work is being done ? Yours or theirs ?
* Will you be going for Agreed Value with your current insurer after the work is done ?
* What sort of guarantee on finish longevity etc; will they provide ?
These are just some of the questions we asked.

P.M. follows.
Tony.

[Matt Cotton]

Gosh, big ££ there Kyle.

Just a thought, but You are obviously practical with the car. Could you not see if there is any reduction if you strip all the trim and brightwork yourself? All easy to do and then you can clean up and paint bits while the rest of the car is away.

Looking forward to following the resto Kyle... keep us posted.

MC

[HQentity]

Thanks for all the ideas!

I've spoken to Whites, they came back with the following:

1. VAT additional to the £65/h, so actually £15,600 :O

2. The panel work they were going to do was the back of the car, rear wings, doors, front wings, sills.

3. No issues with GRP panels.

4. Deposit - £400 plus VAT, that then gets deducted from the first invoice raised. Billed weekly.

5. Yes, lots of photos of each stage.

6. I asked if they would do under the bonnet/engine bay, to which they responded "Yes if you want us to" - so I'm going to assume this is additional.

7. They WILL be doing "cavity wax etc".

8. 2-pack paint, I have a paint code of 39, and exactly the same (Honeysuckle) as currently.

9. Insurance provided by Whites.

10. I will definitely be going for agreed value!

11. They have said yes to a garuntee, but that it depends on the products we agree to use.