Cavity Waxes
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- TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser
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Cavity Waxes
Hi all. I'm at the stage now with new inner and outer sills fitted that I need to use some suitable cavity wax inside the sills.
My father in law is an advocate of Waxoil and this has without doubt kept his fleet away from too much tin worm over the years. I've used it too on my 1500HL.
I've also used Dynax s50 in aerosol form which is very easy to use and gets good reports and I like Dinitrol products too.
Does anyone have a favourite?
My father in law is an advocate of Waxoil and this has without doubt kept his fleet away from too much tin worm over the years. I've used it too on my 1500HL.
I've also used Dynax s50 in aerosol form which is very easy to use and gets good reports and I like Dinitrol products too.
Does anyone have a favourite?
Last edited by Matt Cotton on Wed Jan 29, 2020 12:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Matt Cotton
TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
TDC/TSSC group meeting - 3rd Tuesday of the month
1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU
TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
TDC/TSSC group meeting - 3rd Tuesday of the month
1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU
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- TDC Cheshire Area Organiser
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Re: Cavity Waxes
Dynax S50 every time Matt
Waxoil (the new stuff) hardens over time and will flake off in places affected by heat such as door panels.
Tony.

Tony.
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- RichardHyde
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Re: Cavity Waxes
Would that expanding foam be any good ? The type used to insulate hot water tanks.
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Re: Cavity Waxes
I like the Dinitrol MIL stuff, really thin and seems to stay.
Probably very similar to the other top-end products.
Don't put foam in a box section, it will retain any moisture, even if non-absorbent. (think of it like a double skinned metal section, they always trap moisture and rot)
Probably very similar to the other top-end products.
Don't put foam in a box section, it will retain any moisture, even if non-absorbent. (think of it like a double skinned metal section, they always trap moisture and rot)
Clive Senior
Brighton
Brighton
Re: Cavity Waxes
Like Clive, I think foam in the box sections would be a disaster with condensation leading to rapid corrosion. I have used Dinitrol 3125, diluted a bit with white spirit, and have been pleased with the way it creeps into joints and drips out of unexpected places if you are applying it in warm weather. In my opinion Waxoyl has been surpassed by better products. Waxoyl is too thick and doesn't creep as well as later formulations. I haven't used the Bilt Hamber products but they have an excellent reputation.
Mike
(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)
(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)
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Re: Cavity Waxes
I have seen that expanding foam used to repair sill's and chassis legs and then undersealed to get get an motRichardHyde wrote: ↑Sat Jan 25, 2020 5:59 pm Would that expanding foam be any good ? The type used to insulate hot water tanks.



Most mot stations will ask you not to underseal welding repairs untill they have checked them after a fail.
Tony.
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Re: Cavity Waxes
Dynax S50 every time. Brilliant stuff.
Re: Cavity Waxes
Another vote for dynax 50 aerosol here, did the shell in the summer with plenty of sun on it and was really surprised where it creeps.
It does clean off easy if it lands where you don’t want it.
I plan to do the doors bonnet and boot before fitting but need some more.
It does clean off easy if it lands where you don’t want it.
I plan to do the doors bonnet and boot before fitting but need some more.
Trevor
75 Sprint in Magenta called GunGaDiN GGD944N
2017 Jaguar XE R-sport
75 Sprint in Magenta called GunGaDiN GGD944N
2017 Jaguar XE R-sport
Re: Cavity Waxes
I’ve used a fair few over the years and the built hamber dynax S50 is the best I’ve used in terms of creep and coverage. Not the cheapest, but eBay have some good priced aerosols and it does go a long way.