Master light switch pins

[GrahamFountain]

Looking here and there, it seems there are different versions of the master light switch with different numbers of pins. There's also a couple of Stag ones, one of which it seems has a "Park light" position.

Do any of them allow the main/dip switch connection to be powered differently from the side lights - like off a different fuse?

Graham

[soe8m]

No.

Jeroen

[GrahamFountain]

Oh.

Graham

[GrahamFountain]

So what would the park position do - power the side lights off a supply not disconnected by the ignition?

Graham

[Carledo]

The Park light section of the Stag master switch is a lone setting. it's designed to power ONLY the 2 O/S sidelights without powering dash lights or the other side sidelights, a sort of minimum nod to the parking legal requirements.

The Stag switch also has a 5th setting beyond headights for fog lights ostensibly. but this is just a 3rd stage of a standard switch, it's only live once the headlights are already on. I have one on the Dolomega and this is what i've used it for. I did toy briefly with the idea of fitting parking lights like my Cav has, where, when the key is out, the indicator switch deploys the sidelights on whichever side is selected. But I gave up as I coudn't find a legible circuit diagram for it! Just a bridge too far!

Steve

[tinweevil]

Graham,

I think you are looking to eliminate the double relay in your earlier plan? It can be done. I think (I'm hoping you can confirm or find the fault in my thinking). The cost/bonus (two sides of the same coin) is you need a relay for the side lights.

1. Feed your main and dip relay coil directly from the ignition fuse, one of the G terminals in the fuse box.
2. Feed a side light relay coil direct from permanent live.
3. Disconnect the +ve feed to the master light switch and ground the switch terminal
4. Disconnect the +ve pass feed to the beam selector switch and ground the terminal
5. Split the blue/white and blue/red at the relay, connect the ground side of the relay coils back to the column through the existing wiring and (obviously) the other side of the split feeds the lights from the relay contact load side.
6. For the side lights the same split wont work due to the proximity of the cluster lights unless you have the relay inside the cabin. I'd prefer it under the bonnet with the others so you'll need a new feed for the ground side and leave the existing loom to carry +ve.
7. The high beam warning light can be fed from the redundant pass light supply.

By moving the switches into the ground side of the relay coils they work for two separate sources, permanent for the sides and switched for the mains. You need more terminals on the switch and the right contact arrangement to do it on the +ve side which I think is what you are asking about in this thread?

[GrahamFountain]

Yes, I am indeed looking to run the sides off a separate supply switched by the ignition. And point 6 is no problem, because the main and dip relays are neatly under the dash. And I think moving the switch into the earth side is v. clever.

However, I need to look at the complexity in the re-wiring, because I already ordered the BC108s and strip board to AND the feeds from the light stalk switch with the ignition output. Pretty sure it will work with a single transistor on each relay as the radio output is not properly grounded when the ignition goes off - even if it is close, I still think it only needs a diode or two (also ordered 1N914s). And the 108's should have the gain, current capacity, and dissipation for the job. And it's a simple patch into the control feed to the relay coil if I put the board on flying leads with the right connectors.

But I just thought if there was a master switch for another car or later model that used separate supplies for sides or park, it might be a simple mod under the cowl. I'm looking at other multilayer rotary switches that might fit as well.

But I can't take on a wiring job that's bigger than can be done in the time between the kids wanting the taxi service I'm expected to provide - it was one of the few benefits of the "stay at home" part of the lockdown, rather than the "stay alert" (we've got enough wares), that I got some time to do stuff. I hope you can only imagine what Blackpool's been like these last few days - I went via Stargate to go shopping yesterday. And the dunes north of St Annes were being wore away by grockles trudging through 'em.

Graham

[soe8m]

The Park light section of the Stag master switch is a lone setting. it's designed to power ONLY the 2 O/S sidelights without powering dash lights or the other side sidelights, a sort of minimum nod to the parking legal requirements.

The Stag switch also has a 5th setting beyond headights for fog lights ostensibly. but this is just a 3rd stage of a standard switch, it's only live once the headlights are already on. I have one on the Dolomega and this is what i've used it for. I did toy briefly with the idea of fitting parking lights like my Cav has, where, when the key is out, the indicator switch deploys the sidelights on whichever side is selected. But I gave up as I coudn't find a legible circuit diagram for it! Just a bridge too far!

Steve

I can draw you one but it involves a different indicator relay. I have made such systems on various classics.

Jeroen

[Carledo]

The Park light section of the Stag master switch is a lone setting. it's designed to power ONLY the 2 O/S sidelights without powering dash lights or the other side sidelights, a sort of minimum nod to the parking legal requirements.

The Stag switch also has a 5th setting beyond headights for fog lights ostensibly. but this is just a 3rd stage of a standard switch, it's only live once the headlights are already on. I have one on the Dolomega and this is what i've used it for. I did toy briefly with the idea of fitting parking lights like my Cav has, where, when the key is out, the indicator switch deploys the sidelights on whichever side is selected. But I gave up as I coudn't find a legible circuit diagram for it! Just a bridge too far!

Steve

I can draw you one but it involves a different indicator relay. I have made such systems on various classics.

Jeroen

Thanks for the offer mate, but I think i'll leave well enough alone! I have enough going on with the central locking etc and trying to get the paint prep done with the other hand as well as customer jobs! And all with my self imposed deadline of TDCIR to meet (Sept 13th)

Cheers, Steve