Probably one for Harvey this, I fitted the engine and auto box the other day to muster and got round to fitting the gear lever and selector rod today, what I found was strange was the fact that I had to wind the selector rod out a few times before the gear lever finally sat comfortably in the tunnel. I was expecting the rods to be very similar from one car to another?
Another thing is the two great levers I had to hand, one had a longer chrome handle shaft then the other??
The pit falls off buying a rolling shell!
Back in 2013 when I converted my 76 Mimosa Manual Sprint to auto using an 1850 type 18 BW65 the selector rod did need quite a bit of adjustment. Given there is a lot of thread there to allow this, and I was also transplanting the gearbox tunnel from a donor car (it is different to the manual tunnel) I didn’t think that was an issue and once I had got it right, I never needed to touch it again.
Last year I managed to acquire a type 17 Sprint BW65 so transplanted that. That was simpler but I did need to finetune the adjustment of that selector rod as it did seem quite difficult to get the chrome handle inside the car to engage at the two extremes (both park and first). However, once it was set I haven’t had to touch the adjustment since.
I haven’t seen different length selector handles inside the car, but I do have one with a red handle in my spares box – I still chose the black one to install in the car. As long as it works…..
You may find different models have different lengths to the in car selector depending on where the remote ‘box lands relative to driver position for comfort and ease of operation. When I next see it, I’ll measure the one in the Stag, which I perceive being further away from the driver and may therefore have a longer throw...
I wonder if the rods I had were off stags originally as the type 35 is a bit different on the outside,I reckon I extended the rod at least 30mm anyways, it’s in and feels like it’s selecting well, just need to get the engine running now!
Another thing that bothers me is how close the downpipe is to the box and worse the expensive inhibitor switch, I couldn’t even jam some heat shield in there
Is there a different down pipe for the auto sprint?
Moneypitz wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2020 7:08 pm
I wonder if the rods I had were off stags originally as the type 35 is a bit different on the outside,I reckon I extended the rod at least 30mm anyways, it’s in and feels like it’s selecting well, just need to get the engine running now!
Another thing that bothers me is how close the downpipe is to the box and worse the expensive inhibitor switch, I couldn’t even jam some heat shield in there
Is there a different down pipe for the auto sprint?
No there isn't and it's a perrenial problem, made more difficult by aftermarket stainless downpipes that don't fit as well as they should!
Just a couple of weeks ago I had to buy a new Inhibit switch for a Sprint auto (£87 including vat and carriage from Chris Witor - OUCH!) and had to almost completely remove the (Rimmers stainless) down pipe, just to access the screw that held the old one on!
On refitting the downpipe, I managed, by a combination of BFMI and lateral thinking, to increase the clearance between the downpipe and the inhibit switch sufficient to get a chunk of heat wrap between them at least! There is, or should be, a small heatshield rivetted to the bottom of the tunnel housing to help with this too. Easy to not notice it and often missing! I have a pattern and can post pics and dimensions if needed.
I took the opportunity to fit a relay in the starter circuit whilst I was at it, having dismantled a faulty inhibit switch in the past, I didn't think well of its ability to withstand heavy electrical loads as well as too much heat! Every little helps!
Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
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