The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Did you see this ? He can print you some ITB parts

https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/drive-my ... b.amp.html

I’ve messaged, no reply just yet, but I’d probably go with what I’m planning, think his set uses some bike throttle bodies, possibly triumph triple, which I though looked a bit small.

The MG units I’m planning on using are 48mm and I could upgrade to 52mm if I feel I need any more air if I go for a full engine build.

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So many ideas... So little budget... So little time.

Will you do 4WD ? Think most of those Jags were 4x4 ?

Is the 270 BHP he achieved not enough then?

I was going to aim for 360hp in final guise, just a nice round number of 400hp/tonne.
X Types were FWD/AWD as they were based on the Ford Mondeo Platform, I pulled my engine and gearbox out of an S Type, with is RWD as it’s based off the Ford Thunderbird Platform. I did think about it in my old thread but I was just talking out of my arse to be honest, would require a lot of work.

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So many ideas... So little budget... So little time.

Update Time:

Haven’t done a lot on the engine mounts since re-welding them but looks like I got some good penetration on the welds. I’ve tacked the outer axle mounts to the axle, I’ve just had to accept that it’s not a Atlas axle, but a Koln. I did a whole lot of research into the different part numbers and found some parts that could be used from an English axle would rate it to around 300hp and give me an LSD, just need some alloy adaptors to space the bearings out.

I’ve also gone back to work so haven’t had much time to work on cars, but I’ve prepped the subframe for the engine mounts being welded to it, then my sisters engine blew up and is borrowing the engine crane so a bit stuck for now on this front.

I have been saving up for some of the more expensive components for this build but the owner of the garage the car is currently stored in has told me that they would quite like it back so I’ve got to focus on the suspension so I can reassemble the car so I can move it soon. I will probably try to mount the engine before I move it otherwise I have no space to store the car safely. I’m also working towards building a bigger garage on the side of my house rather than the tin shed I currently have.

Once the engine and suspension is in, the rest of the work can be done with limited access to the car, such as wiring harness, exhaust, etc

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So many ideas... So little budget... So little time.

2021 update:

Almost Zero progress made from last time, but got an engine crane to help with it all. Spend ages aligning engine and subframe. So hopefully going to do finish the engine mounts this week, fingers crossed.

Also treated myself to a pair of SprintSpeed Ford patterned stub axles. Haven’t fitted them yet as I want to get all the hubs and stuff first so I’m not stuck with parts that can’t go together if the car needs moving.

My garage is slowly become more filled with stuff and it’s now getting very in the way. Most of it will need moved when the car comes home anyway so maybe after engine mounts, it’s time for a new shed.

Also, at the end of my thread asking about Triumph 2000 drag links being an acceptable replacement for the Dolomite ones, I found a pair of dDolomite ones on eBay and bought them. Came with rubber bushes, nuts and washers. So they’re all painted up and ready for firmest once all back in the car.

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So many ideas... So little budget... So little time.

2nd update

Got engine mounts tacked on after hours of alignment and measurements.

Then I went to take the subframe off the engine and crushed my thumb, so yeah, I’m out of commission for a bit. Might still go back out and get it all finished and welded

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So many ideas... So little budget... So little time.

March Update

Well, one year of lockdown has passed and I’ve made so much progress since March last year.

I’ve added more weld to the subframe mounts but it not happy with them. I had issues with my welder settings but they’re strong enough to hold the engine for now. I’ll have to go back and grind the bad welds out but I can do that later.

I’ve painted and reassembled the front suspension, I just need to put the new springs onto the shocks and it’s ready to go on the subframe.

I’ve knocked together some radiator mounts, tied into the old lower radiator mounts and the bonnet hinge mounts. The radiator I’m using is out of an 01 plate Yaris complete with fan, it’s a touch in the small side but fits in the engine bay nicely between the frame rails.

Once I’ve got the subframe back in the car, I can then start to mock up a gearbox mount to attach to the floor area around the gearbox cover. I asked Carledo for advice from his mounts and it looks like it’s a suitable place to mount to with a spreader plate.

I’m still stuck with the axle, as I now have a scrap worthy Koln axle and the weak banjo axle. I’ve debated having some spacers made to use an English differential, as the Koln is very similar to both the Atlas and English axles. This would just be a stop gap while I either buy a strong English or build an Atlas.

I’ve also acquired an X Type wiring loom to cut up and make a harness for whatever ECU I use

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So many ideas... So little budget... So little time.

Pretty in pink.

Are you sure that Yaris rad will be big enough to cool that big Jag engine.

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2009 Mini Clubman Cooper S Daily Driver.
1980 Dolomite Sprint with a touch of BLTS
Balanced Lightened and Tweaked 13B Rotary and SuperCharged.
Rebuilding the Sprint time taken so far, 111Hrs@15/12/2020
212Hrs @31/12/2021
261@Hrs @ 13/06/2022
Member TDC no 0471

Project 13B Sprint now back on.

Damn nice in pink, only shame is the paint doesn’t stick well

And yeah, it’s about the same size as a polo rad that westfields use. Main benefit is the fan and shroud making the capacity way more than the triumph ones

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So many ideas... So little budget... So little time.

My RX8 rad fits nicely between the chassis rails.
Bearing in mine.
My Rotary engine stops just short of the turrets.
With large twin fans and shroud as standard.
I’ve also managed to bag a RX8 Alloy rad cheap.

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2009 Mini Clubman Cooper S Daily Driver.
1980 Dolomite Sprint with a touch of BLTS
Balanced Lightened and Tweaked 13B Rotary and SuperCharged.
Rebuilding the Sprint time taken so far, 111Hrs@15/12/2020
212Hrs @31/12/2021
261@Hrs @ 13/06/2022
Member TDC no 0471

Project 13B Sprint now back on.

Maybe if the Yaris rad isn’t enough, I’ll get one, only got the Yaris one because it was a good size and was cheap locally.

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So many ideas... So little budget... So little time.

I’ve just made up my radiator mounts. I had planned on using the existing mount points on the nose but I had some issues with it hitting the front splitter. So I made a new one that mounts to the chassis rails. I’ve made it adjustable as well so I can set the height and orientation when it’s in the car.

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So many ideas... So little budget... So little time.

So finally gotten to the end of my axle quandary

I currently own the Dolomite Banjo axle which came with my Dolomite 1500, and a Koln axle thinking it was an Atlas. Buying an Atlas can be quite expensive to buy prefabricated or hard to come by in the right size.

So I’ve looked at the Ford English Axle, which was the standard axle that came in Escorts, Anglias, and early Capris. Each one had different widths, with the Escort being the most common size of around 48 inch casing, with brakes it comes out at around 53 inches wheel face to wheel face.

The Dolomite rear track width is 50.2 inches, with the 35mm offset from the sprint wheels brings the rear axle width to 52.9 inches wheel face to wheel face. So the English is a good fit

Next issue is strength. The English is the weaker of the two Ford axles, generally replaced in high power Escorts for the stronger Atlas. But times have changed, Retro Ford now sell a kit which includes a LSD and half shafts, rated to in excess of 300hp. Which is good enough for what I need.

English escort axles are much easier to get ahold of, as the BRISCA/F2 use them. I posted on a Facebook selling page for these racers and am going to collect 2 bare casings for the grand sum of £40!!

Now I just need a diff housing, which again can be had cheaply second hand from BRISCA racers, and I’ll have a stout axle that’s the right size

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So many ideas... So little budget... So little time.