1980 1850HL auto - gearbox issue...?

[Dunhookin]

Hi fellas

My 1850 is getting a lot of TLC, for which you'd think it would be appreciative...but it's very fond of workshop time and I fear has just sprung another snag to keep it workshop bound for even longer.

The car is automatic, equipped with the BW65 gearbox. For the last umpteen years, the gearbox has been ok, never the smoothest changing or engaging unit, it also emitted a whining noise in operation, despite those things, it did the job. But now it is stuck in 1st gear, selecting D or manually selecting the gearbox 1-2-3, makes no difference, it will not select any other gear.

During the car's extensive overhaul work this winter, I have had the sump off the gearbox to deal with a leaking gasket. It is full of the correct mineral automatic transmission fluid, which I renewed when the sump was off.

Please can anyone advise what is likely to be causing this? Any advice or shared experience gratefully received.

Best

Andy H

[Stevo]

I have had this happen on other non Dolomite cars of the era, unfortunately its generally rebuild territory, but you may be able to add conditioner to it if its hardened rubbers causing it inside.

The whine does not sound good - this might be of some help from the Rover forums;

https://classicroverforum.net/index.php ... ear.41672/

And a massive discussion in the Jag forums

https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/xj-bw65-and-66/182972

I would say it would be alot cheaper swapping a manual out or a good second hand box if your in the UK.

[Dunhookin]

Thanks Stevo, useful links to Rover and Jaguar forums. That the gearbox looks likely to be duff and in need of replacing is a significant blow - I see they cost £700 plus change - I hadn't budgeted for that.

I'd go for a good SH unit if I could find one - guess that's not likely though...

[matt of the vivas]

I've got a good used box here from a low mileage 1850. It was dismantled and rebuilt for the story in the club magazine a few months back. It has all new gaskets and seals, new clutch plates and good used brake bands. I've not used it in a car but I have no reason to think it's not good. If it helps you out - yours for free. You'd have to arrange collection from Norwich though.

[harvey]

But now it is stuck in 1st gear, selecting D or manually selecting the gearbox 1-2-3, makes no difference, it will not select any other gear.

Sounds like the governor valve is sticking.

As for the whine, if it's there all the time that the engine is running it could just be the filter blocked, if it comes and goes in different gears when driving then it's more likely an internal mechanical fault.

[Dunhookin]

Matt, thank you so much for your very kind offer - which I'm delighted to accept. Does the gearbox come with a torque convertor? Not pushing my luck, just thinking that if it doesn't, I'll get a new one.

I'll pm you to arrange a courier to collect.

With best regards

Andy H

[matt of the vivas]

Hi Andy.
It's a bare gearbox, so you need to swop over:
Bellhousing, torque converter, Inhibitor switch, kickdown cable, Speedo cable and drive, U pipe (or fit the lines for the cooler if yours has one).
All of this is done externally apart from the kickdown cable which needs the sump off. It's completely dry, no fluid, as it has been stripped and rebuilt.
Matt.

[matt of the vivas]

Just dug it out of the shed to refresh my memory.

[soe8m]

Sometimes the kickdown gets stuck. The lever inside the box can easily be distorted when having the sump off, cleaning faces etc. When the lever gets stuck it is permanent in kickdown so first gear. It will eventually go in second at around 8000 rpm. When this happenend just after changing the sump gasket or other service work I would take the sump off to check if the lever is in the correct position.

Jeroen

[harvey]

Sometimes the kickdown gets stuck. The lever inside the box can easily be distorted when having the sump off, cleaning faces etc. When the lever gets stuck it is permanent in kickdown so first gear. It will eventually go in second at around 8000 rpm.

If that happened then you would get extremely harsh engagement of drive/reverse which the OP made no mention of, and believe me, he would have noticed.

[Dunhookin]

Great, thank you for the confirmations Matt - and the pics. I need to get torque convertor shopping.

I've emailed you through the forum a little earlier, please let me know if that doesn't arrive. I'll be checking with some couriers tomorrow to ascertain likely timing to collect and what their packing requirements are. I'll update you accordingly.

Thanks again for the gearbox - you really made my day!

With best regards

Andy H