Has my car got the original engine?

[alvera]

I'm trying to fit a mechanical pump to my 1972 Dolomite 1850 and it just won't work. It occurred to me that I may have the wrong pump.If the car was fitted with a later block I will need a later pump with a longer throw. The V5 shows the engine number as WF9380DLA and the only numbers I can find on the block are V3103, 22E20, and D5 / 19905 3 all these numbers taken off the block just under the inlet manifold.Can anyone confirm my car has the later block.

[dollyman]

Can you show a photo of the pump you are going to fit? There are only two Early engine has no spacer block later one needs it. Have you tried fitting a primer? It takes ages for a pump to get fuel through unless used daily.

Tony.

[marshman]

I was under the impression that there were two different pumps, the "early" and "late" pumps have different length arms. The engines have different blocks and therefore need different length arms and or a spacers to suit.

The part number of the early pump is 312167. no spacer required for early engine block, spacer required for later block (78 on ?) (I think its that way round).

This is a picture of the early pump. (AC Delco pump XP90038 / 312167) arm approx 55mm from mounting face to to tip of arm



Roger

[alvera]

I bought the pump which is a copy of the one ( not working ) that was taken off the car. But when fitted it doesn't pump.I am now thinking it will need the later pump with a spacer and the only explanation would be is the car has had a later engine fitted hence my query if anybody knows from the numbers what age the block is.These are the pictures requested of the old a new pump.

[Mad Mart]

If you have fitted a pump with the same length arm as the one you took off it should work. The only reason for the spacer on the longer arm pump is to keep it in the same relative position. It can be quite difficult to keep the arm on the jackshaft cam when installing so maybe the arm slipped off to one side of the cam so therefore won't pump.

[dollyman]

Looks like you need the spacer as you have the new longer pump. I used this gasket block
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-Mini ... Sw1iVgHXUx As it is cheaper and easier to find than the Dolomite one, and works perfectly. You can no longer get the old style pump unless you come across a nos one.

Tony.

[MIG Wielder]

Here is a link to a write-up I did some time ago. Its about 1/2 way down the thread.
If you print out the diagram full size you can compare your pump profile with what is should be.

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... mp#p298859

Tony.

[BobM]

I have recently fitted one of these pumps. As is seen in the photographs the arms have a slightly different profile, but this has little or no effect on performance. You need however to look at the edge of the lever that contacts the cam. You will probably find, as I did, a raw stamped and hardened surface that will damage the eccentric on the jackshaft. It will need a touch with a grinder and oilstone to smooth the contact area.

I did as Mad Mart indicates, find it very difficult to hold it centered on the eccentric whilst bolting up. A final note, the fuel comes in at the top and out to the carbs from the lower connection. Easy mistake to make if it has been apart for a while and you are renewing the hoses.

BobM

[alvera]

I have tried everything to get this pump working.My brother in law ( Ex mechanic retired ) says it's the way I'm fitting it and I have to make sure the cam is in the right place prior to fitting.I have tried turning the engine over into various positions and even put a camera into the block but it seems the cam is not central to the hole ( it seems to be over to the left of the pump ) That's what makes me think it's a later engine requiring a longer arm.
If I can't figure this out I will have to fit a electric pump but i would like to get a better quality one than what came on the car has anyone got any suggestions and experience of fitting a decent electric pump as the one I have now continually pumps and then floods the carbs.

[Richard the old one]

I am with Dollyman when he states above "Have you tried fitting a primer. It takes ages for a pump to get fuel through unless used daily."

Have you read the discussion on this forum "Wont start after a long layup"

You have not said why you were changing the pump?

Do you have anything to check that you can suck petrol up to the petrol pump input?

Richard

[TrustNo1]

I've had a few 1850s where its been difficult to locate the pump arm correctly and two where the lobes had worn rendering the pump useless.

[xvivalve]

THERE IS NO 'LATER ENGINE' WHICH REQUIRES A LONGER ARM.

Those engines fitted with a longer armed pump require a spacer block to take up the difference; the pump body ends up sitting further away from the engine.

[Mad Mart]

THERE IS NO 'LATER ENGINE' WHICH REQUIRES A LONGER ARM.

Those engines fitted with a longer armed pump require a spacer block to take up the difference; the pump body ends up sitting further away from the engine.

I think I said that already.

[xvivalve]

I think I said that already.

You did, but still it persists:

That's what makes me think it's a later engine requiring a longer arm.

[Mad Mart]

What I do to fit these pumps is to use studs instead of bolts. You can make your studs by cutting down longer bolts. Screw the studs into the block, fit the gasket, place the pump on the studs then gradually tighten down the two nuts a bit at a time keeping the pump as square to the block as possible. When tight, check the pump works ok. If it does, you can either leave the studs in place or replace them one at a time with the original bolts.

NB. Cut a slot in the end of the studs, to facilitate removal, if you are going to be replacing them with the bolts.