Dolomite front stub axles.

[sprintchris]

Hi,

Can anyone recommend best place to buy stub axles ( just stub ) I see Rimmers and Robsport do them, any reports on quality?

I’m aware the hubs simply pull off, but is there usually any movement between the centre part of bearing race and stub, or should it be a snug totally movement free fit?

Trackerjack conversion in progress, want to ensure the disc clears the hub hence query on bearing to stub fit.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Chris.

[Mad Mart]

Club spares have a few sets in stock.

[sprintchris]

Club spares have a few sets in stock.

I had a look on the club spares list but can’t see anything.... is there another list somewhere??

Is the quality good??

[Carledo]

The bearing is only a light push fit over the stub axle, so I guess the inner race will wobble a thou or two, if slipped over the stub axle in isolation.The last bit of play gets taken up with the friction of tightening up the bearing in theory.

I've found when fitting the TJ kit, especially when not using new bearings (but sometimes even WITH new bearings) it can be needful to shave a few thou of the outboard bottom area of the hub carrier around where the lower balljoint bolts go through, otherwise the disc can contact here and jam it all up.

It seems to be a case of lousy production tolerances somewhere, as some cars need no shaving, some need one shaving and others need both. Luck of the draw basically!

The TJ kit is necessarily a very close fit just about everywhere. It's as big as it can possibly be and still go under the stock Sprint rims. Standard 70s BL production quality isn't really up to such tight tolerances and bits quite often need fettling a touch to get it in.

You've probably read in the instructions of an occasional need to shave the outside edge of the caliper a tad to stop it catching the wheel rim when the pads are new. One I did the other day the rim caught and rubbed the caliper, not much, only enough to scrape some of the fresh paint off, but here's my point, ONLY over about a quarter of the circumference of the inner rim! the rest cleared by up to 1/4" The rim isn't buckled or anything and I tried it in all 4 positions to eliminate hub run out. It's just a not very round wheel. Probably accounts for the number of balance weights on it!

Steve

[cleverusername]

The bearing is only a light push fit over the stub axle, so I guess the inner race will wobble a thou or two, if slipped over the stub axle in isolation.The last bit of play gets taken up with the friction of tightening up the bearing in theory.

I've found when fitting the TJ kit, especially when not using new bearings (but sometimes even WITH new bearings) it can be needful to shave a few thou of the outboard bottom area of the hub carrier around where the lower balljoint bolts go through, otherwise the disc can contact here and jam it all up.

It seems to be a case of lousy production tolerances somewhere, as some cars need no shaving, some need one shaving and others need both. Luck of the draw basically!

The TJ kit is necessarily a very close fit just about everywhere. It's as big as it can possibly be and still go under the stock Sprint rims. Standard 70s BL production quality isn't really up to such tight tolerances and bits quite often need fettling a touch to get it in.

You've probably read in the instructions of an occasional need to shave the outside edge of the caliper a tad to stop it catching the wheel rim when the pads are new. One I did the other day the rim caught and rubbed the caliper, not much, only enough to scrape some of the fresh paint off, but here's my point, ONLY over about a quarter of the circumference of the inner rim! the rest cleared by up to 1/4" The rim isn't buckled or anything and I tried it in all 4 positions to eliminate hub run out. It's just a not very round wheel. Probably accounts for the number of balance weights on it!

Steve

This is were pros like yourself have the advantage over us amateurs. I wouldn't dare attempt to modify a part like that, especially if it needs such a small amount removing. Too much chance I would balls up the job and reduce the part to scrap.

Still I suppose that is why they invented your friendly local engineering company, to do such things.

[Mad Mart]

Club spares have a few sets in stock.

I had a look on the club spares list but can’t see anything.... is there another list somewhere??

Is the quality good??

I would expect the quality to be good as they are club spares. But not having feedback from anyone who has used them then I can't say. I will try to find out the cost of these and make sure they are put on the list.

[xvivalve]

You've probably read in the instructions of an occasional need to shave the outside edge of the caliper a tad to stop it catching the wheel rim when the pads are new. One I did the other day the rim caught and rubbed the caliper, not much, only enough to scrape some of the fresh paint off, but here's my point, ONLY over about a quarter of the circumference of the inner rim! the rest cleared by up to 1/4" The rim isn't buckled or anything and I tried it in all 4 positions to eliminate hub run out. It's just a not very round wheel. Probably accounts for the number of balance weights on it!

Steve

I'd have put that wheel on the back axle and used one that didn't interfere on the front!

[Mad Mart]

The club stub axles are £35 each including postage.

[Carledo]

You've probably read in the instructions of an occasional need to shave the outside edge of the caliper a tad to stop it catching the wheel rim when the pads are new. One I did the other day the rim caught and rubbed the caliper, not much, only enough to scrape some of the fresh paint off, but here's my point, ONLY over about a quarter of the circumference of the inner rim! the rest cleared by up to 1/4" The rim isn't buckled or anything and I tried it in all 4 positions to eliminate hub run out. It's just a not very round wheel. Probably accounts for the number of balance weights on it!

Steve

I'd have put that wheel on the back axle and used one that didn't interfere on the front!

If you'd seen the other wheels and the amount of weights on them (and stick on weights in EXACTLY the wrong place to boot) you would have known. I already picked the best 2 of 4 (least weights) to go on the front. I'm still going to have to have them rebalanced as I had to remove a handful of weights that were in the wrong place to provide ANY clearance on the calipers and replace them with old fashioned weights clipped to the outer rim in the traditional manner.

I find it best to build it so that ANY of the wheels can be fitted as you don't know what will happen in the future. A tyre shop might mix the wheels up or a proud owner may even follow the 70s service schedule and try rotating the wheels round the car as was common practice then to even out tyre wear.

To cleverusername, yes there is a risk in modifying safety critical parts and it's not one I take lightly. I only use a flapwheel sanding disc on the angle grinder to do the shaving, so only remove tiny amounts at a time and do it lightly and slowly to avoid heat buildup. Fortunately for me, there is also a tiny "step" in the bottom of every vertical link casting that gives a benchmark to work to, sand it back till the step JUST disappears and that will be enough! On caliper clearance the same applies, take off tiny amounts at a time and try fit frequently till all trace of bind is eliminated. It MIGHT be a better idea to shave the wheels more round, but i'm too leery of risking doing that on ancient, flimsy and not very well made alloys anyway. Truthfully, the wheel clearance problem IS only a problem on the thick and bulky Sprint alloys, even a stock 1850's 13" steel rim clears the calipers easily, a 14" or 15" alloy is no problem at all. But with Sprint owners (and a lot of other Dolomite owners) more attached to the GKN Sprint alloys than they are to their firstborn, its something I have to deal with. TJ Jon built a kit which is (JUST) small enough to go under MOST Sprint alloys. But even too many coats of paint applied by an overzealous rim reconditioner can tip the balance into a rub that I have to eliminate, it's part of the fun of the job! The problem goes away altogether once the pads get some wear under them as the caliper automatically moves inwards on the sliders with pad wear, away from the rim.

Steve

[Mad Mart]

Here is a club stub axle. I believe they were made for the club just before I took on club spares, so maybe 8-10 years ago.

[sprintchris]

Here is a club stub axle. I believe they were made for the club just before I took on club spares, so maybe 8-10 years ago.

The stubs look good. I’ve not had chance to get back on mine yet, how much will a pair of these cost assuming they’re still in stock?

[triumphdolomiteuk]

The club stub axles are £35 each including postage.