1500TC - Odd starting

[bazyerma]

Hi All

After fitting my new head and running a 50 miles everything is going well but it doesn't start as well as it used to from cold.

When hot it starts first flick of the key, but from cold its usually the third attempt. The odd thing is it always starts just as i let go of the ignition key.

Since I have had the car the, when I changed to magnetic points I spotted the red and black cable goto the opposite terminals on the coil.

When I replaced the coil and dizzy, I tried going the correct we round, but it didn't start.

Its now as attached, do you think something basic could be wrong that I am missing (There is no ballast I can see fitted to the car).

Regards

Barry

[TrustNo1]

the wire from car should go to the + terminal and the black wire from dist should be on the -
You either have a neg electonic kit or a short within the dizzy.

Do you have a carb heat shield fitted between the carb and manifold as if this is missing it will cause fuel evaporation.

The two issues are not linked

[bazyerma]

the wire from car should go to the + terminal and the black wire from dist should be on the -
You either have a neg electonic kit or a short within the dizzy.

Do you have a carb heat shield fitted between the carb and manifold as if this is missing it will cause fuel evaporation.

The two issues are not linked

Hi

Once I rebuilt the engine I went back to the stock head with a new heatshield so should be fine (attached photo for your viewing pleasure!)!

I am tempted to swap around cables but I am worried I will fry something?

Regards

Barry

[Carledo]

If you have the SimonBBC kit, or one like it, even a try at the opposite polarity can fry the module, DON'T RISK IT!

I prefer to get my module power (red lead) from the fusebox unfused ignition supply tag (where the white wires are) The rest are black module wire to coil -ve, yellow/white ignition wire to coil +ve and white/slate rev counter sense lead to coil -ve. Your car is sufficiently late that the ballast is included in the loom and not visible, by remoting the 12v supply to the module to the fusebox you are getting round the ballast/non ballast question.

Steve

[bazyerma]

If you have the SimonBBC kit, or one like it, even a try at the opposite polarity can fry the module, DON'T RISK IT!

I prefer to get my module power (red lead) from the fusebox unfused ignition supply tag (where the white wires are) The rest are black module wire to coil -ve, yellow/white ignition wire to coil +ve and white/slate rev counter sense lead to coil -ve. Your car is sufficiently late that the ballast is included in the loom and not visible, by remoting the 12v supply to the module to the fusebox you are getting round the ballast/non ballast question.

Steve

Hi Steve

Sadly you were to late and I have already swapped over my leads, but the good new I started it this morning from cold and started 3-4th turn, Chuffed to bits!

Regards

Barry

[TrustNo1]

I was going to say failure to start first turn will be a fuel issues (choke) rather than the sparking side but jut reread your first post and if it sparks just as you release the keys thats down to the timing. did you static time the car, if so it may need adjusting by turning the dizzy slightly due to the electronic ignition.

[bazyerma]

I was going to say failure to start first turn will be a fuel issues (choke) rather than the sparking side but jut reread your first post and if it sparks just as you release the keys thats down to the timing. did you static time the car, if so it may need adjusting by turning the dizzy slightly due to the electronic ignition.

Hi

I tried adjusting my timing with the engine running an is seems ok, although I still think its running a bit lean, I have a strobe light but I have never used one before, so might give that some research on were to point it!

But swapping over my coil connections has not improved the running, but it starts so much better now!

Regards

Barry

[bazyerma]

If you have the SimonBBC kit, or one like it, even a try at the opposite polarity can fry the module, DON'T RISK IT!

I prefer to get my module power (red lead) from the fusebox unfused ignition supply tag (where the white wires are) The rest are black module wire to coil -ve, yellow/white ignition wire to coil +ve and white/slate rev counter sense lead to coil -ve. Your car is sufficiently late that the ballast is included in the loom and not visible, by remoting the 12v supply to the module to the fusebox you are getting round the ballast/non ballast question.

Steve

Hi Steve

I did a test and run a cable from the fuse box to the coil and it drove and started the same. Should there be some difference or do you think maybe ballast has been removed from the loom in the past, were would it be for me to check?

Regards

Barry