Affordable Worthwhile Modifications/Improvements

[aaronstorey24]

I'd certainly upgrade the brakes from drum to disc and fit a servo, whether you need to go the whole hog and fit the TJs is for you to decide. I'm a big fan of the TJ conversion and use it on all my Dolomites, but whether you REALLY need it on a 1300 Toledo would depend on the sort of driving you do and your personal style. If you are contemplating the C.T. Round Britain Run or something similar, you need the TJs! If you just go to shows and pootle the lanes on sunny Sundays, you probably will be fine with the later spec single discs. There are also some brake pipe run upgrades i've developed that improve braking balance in emergency stop situations.

EI is handy for sure.

One other thing I think is a MUST on the Toledo is to fit a front antiroll bar, it transforms the handling, turning a roly poly car into something pretty competent. And maybe go for some 5j Spitfire rims and 175/70/13 tyres.

IMO, it's best to get the car stopping and handling as well as possible before indulging any lust for more power. But on the useability side, an overdrive gearbox is a great (if not especially cheap these days) thing to have for long distance/motorway work.

Steve

Thanks for the advice! Any tips on where to start looking for TJs? Also when talking about antiroll bars is this a thing that needs to be custom made or is there already triumph roll bars out there that would fit a Toledo?

Many thanks again, Aaron

A Dolomite antiroll bar bolts straight on, all the mount points and holes are already there!

Best to contact Jon Jackson (AKA Trackerjack of this forum) about a TJ kit. It is, however a relatively complicated thing to do and not for a novice, but if you have basic skills, a fairly talented amateur can fit it at home. Or I offer a complete fitting service (approved by Jon himself) But be warned, the TOTAL cost of the conversion including my labour is just over £600 (labour content is £200 of that, it takes me a full day to do it and that's after I've done some preliminary work) Parts include the TJ kit itself, (discs, brackets and mount rings) plus good used caliper carriers, new calipers and pads, new bespoke braided hoses and new wheel bearings.

If you wanted to go straight from drums to TJs, I can supply good, used disc brake hubs and vertical links to suit for sensible prices as well. I might even have a decent used servo kicking about. And you'd need a servo specific master cylinder too.

Steve

Hi Steve,

Thank you for the help that's very useful to know! I'll have to work some things out and weigh up my options. Thank you so much for all the advice! I may be in touch in the future.

All the best,
Aaron

[cleverusername]

Trackerjack brakes. Essential. Anything else after that is just indulgence.

Unless one drives like a madman, the Triumph Toledo 1300 brakes (i.e. front disc-brakes & rear drum-brakes) are quite satisfactory and nicely weighted for progressive braking under all required deceleration conditions!

Other than on a deserted road in Norfolk, have you actually driven a Triumph this millennium in normal road conditions? The world has moved on, braking systems have massively improved on cars since our beloved Triumphs were built. If we want to actually use our cars on roads, rather than trailer them to classic car shows, we need to ensure that they are as safe as possible to use, for the sake of ourselves, our passengers and other road users.

I'm sorry but this is non-sense. A Dolomite is in no way dangerous to drive with standard brakes, at least if you have the front disc setup. When I had my 1500 on the road, the brakes gave me no issues what so ever.

Frankly if you are really that concerned about safety, you shouldn't be driving a classic. Fitting better brakes doesn't suddenly mean your Dolly has ABS, crumple zones, side impact bars, airbags and other modern safety features. A Dolly and similar cars are dangerous compared to moderns, that is a simply fact of life.

That doesn't mean that those of us who haven't fitted modified brakes are being reckless and are endangering other road users.

[tinweevil]

I'm sorry but this is non-sense. A Dolomite is in no way dangerous to drive with standard brakes, at least if you have the front disc setup. When I had my 1500 on the road, the brakes gave me no issues what so ever.

Frankly if you are really that concerned about safety, you shouldn't be driving a classic. Fitting better brakes doesn't suddenly mean your Dolly has ABS, crumple zones, side impact bars, airbags and other modern safety features. A Dolly and similar cars are dangerous compared to moderns, that is a simply fact of life.

That doesn't mean that those of us who haven't fitted modified brakes are being reckless and are endangering other road users.

Well said.

[matt of the vivas]

Also agree with the last two posts.... The standard disc brakes are perfectly fine as designed. The issue comes with fitting modern non-asbestos brake pads.... But this has been discussed before. And yes, i do drive my 1850 regularly and in modern traffic. When the standard brakes can easily lock the small, narrow standard tyres, then where's the advantage in more stopping power? Not deriding the TJ kit, for a modified car it's brilliant. But to give the impression that the standard disc brakes are dangerous is nonsense.

[triumphdolomiteuk]

If the braking system is in good condition, yes the standard disc/drum combination will have the power to lock the wheels in an emergency situation, no doubt about it. Let's imagine that a fully-laden car is being driven through Snowdonia on a nice summer's day. The brakes are quite hot because they've been applied many times due to the nature of the roads in that area. Without warning, the modern car in front has to stop suddenly because a sheep has wondered into the road. Would a Triumph still have the stopping ability to avoid rear-ending the car in front? Well that's a rhetorical question and the answer would depend on many other factors, not least the amount of distance the driver has allowed between the Triumph and the car in front. The TJ conversion would perform better than the standard set up in this particular situation, I have no doubt of that.
The original poster asked for suggestions for worthwhile modifications/improvements; surely giving the car the ability to stop a bit better under extreme conditions counts as worthwhile? Of course our cars don't have airbags, ABS and other aids, which in the minds of some people makes them unsafe and worthy of being banned from the roads. If we are seen to be actively trying to improve the safety of our cars and to make them more useable in the modern world, it will hopefully prevent the legislators from spoiling the party and we can continue to enjoy driving our cars well into the future.

[cleverusername]

If the braking system is in good condition, yes the standard disc/drum combination will have the power to lock the wheels in an emergency situation, no doubt about it. Let's imagine that a fully-laden car is being driven through Snowdonia on a nice summer's day. The brakes are quite hot because they've been applied many times due to the nature of the roads in that area. Without warning, the modern car in front has to stop suddenly because a sheep has wondered into the road. Would a Triumph still have the stopping ability to avoid rear-ending the car in front? Well that's a rhetorical question and the answer would depend on many other factors, not least the amount of distance the driver has allowed between the Triumph and the car in front. The TJ conversion would perform better than the standard set up in this particular situation, I have no doubt of that.
The original poster asked for suggestions for worthwhile modifications/improvements; surely giving the car the ability to stop a bit better under extreme conditions counts as worthwhile? Of course our cars don't have airbags, ABS and other aids, which in the minds of some people makes them unsafe and worthy of being banned from the roads. If we are seen to be actively trying to improve the safety of our cars and to make them more useable in the modern world, it will hopefully prevent the legislators from spoiling the party and we can continue to enjoy driving our cars well into the future.

That is fair enough but you did imply that those of that don't fit such upgrades such be trailing our cars to shows and not using them on the roads. Which I object to.

Take your situation in the mountains, what should you do? Pretty simple, if your brakes are getting hot you do what my father did in the Lake District. You leave a bigger gap or even pull over to let the brakes cool. Sensible driving keeps you safe and driving beyond any car's limits is dangerous.

I mean you could apply your example to a modern car like a Yaris. What happens if an expensive car with massive brake discs and four pot calipers suddenly brakes? Will the Yaris be able to stop in time? Probably not. Doesn't make the Yaris dangerous.

[aaronstorey24]

If the braking system is in good condition, yes the standard disc/drum combination will have the power to lock the wheels in an emergency situation, no doubt about it. Let's imagine that a fully-laden car is being driven through Snowdonia on a nice summer's day. The brakes are quite hot because they've been applied many times due to the nature of the roads in that area. Without warning, the modern car in front has to stop suddenly because a sheep has wondered into the road. Would a Triumph still have the stopping ability to avoid rear-ending the car in front? Well that's a rhetorical question and the answer would depend on many other factors, not least the amount of distance the driver has allowed between the Triumph and the car in front. The TJ conversion would perform better than the standard set up in this particular situation, I have no doubt of that.
The original poster asked for suggestions for worthwhile modifications/improvements; surely giving the car the ability to stop a bit better under extreme conditions counts as worthwhile? Of course our cars don't have airbags, ABS and other aids, which in the minds of some people makes them unsafe and worthy of being banned from the roads. If we are seen to be actively trying to improve the safety of our cars and to make them more useable in the modern world, it will hopefully prevent the legislators from spoiling the party and we can continue to enjoy driving our cars well into the future.

Very well said and yes my original post was asking for worthwhile modifications and I deem disc brakes to be that. The other posters also made very valid points but my current situation is that I am driving an early Toledo which has ENTIRELY drum brakes. I'm not at all knocking them as I've coped so far with them for the 5 years that I've owned the car but I believe that most will agree with me when I say that they are not the sharpest and an upgrade to discs on the front would be highly beneficial.

I also failed to mention when I originally posted as I didn't believe it was relevant at the time but this car is my daily driver. I don't currently use it that regularly as I don't have a commute to work and when I do I don't drive dangerously, always leave plenty of room between me and other cars, but, originality aside, it's probably about time that I upgraded as if I intend to keep using it as I have it needs to be as safe as I can possibly make it.

Thanks again for everyone's comments, they have helped me greatly in making a decision as up until now I've been toying between keeping originality and drivability but ultimately, safety comes first.

Aaron

[naskeet]

Trackerjack brakes. Essential. Anything else after that is just indulgence.

Unless one drives like a madman, the Triumph Toledo 1300 brakes (i.e. front disc-brakes & rear drum-brakes) are quite satisfactory and nicely weighted for progressive braking under all required deceleration conditions!

Other than on a deserted road in Norfolk, have you actually driven a Triumph this millennium in normal road conditions? The world has moved on, braking systems have massively improved on cars since our beloved Triumphs were built. If we want to actually use our cars on roads, rather than trailer them to classic car shows, we need to ensure that they are as safe as possible to use, for the sake of ourselves, our passengers and other road users.

I have NEVER driven any Triumph car on any road in Norfolk, at any time since I passed my driving test on 1st July 1974! The only vehicle I recall having driven in Norfolk, is a 1975 Toyota Hiace Mk.1 Danbury motor-caravan & baggage trailer (through a snow blizzard in one direction | during the 1979 school Easter vacation), plus possibly the 1973 VW 1600 Type 2 Westfalia Continental motor-caravan and 1986 Ford Sierra XR4x4.

The last motor vehicle I drove, about 11~12 years ago, was my father's 2004 SEAT Leon Cupra 20V Turbo, for a distance of about 1¼ miles from the local MOT testing station. From my perspective, the brakes were much too fierce, coming on hard with even feather-light brake-pedal pressure! It was one of the reasons we sold the car after my father died in September 2011.

Previously, I had regularly driven his relatively modern 1986 Ford Sierra XR4x4 with optional factory-fitted anti-lock brakes & air-conditioning, plus rear head restraints that I retro-fitted myself, which had nicely-weighted brakes like the 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300. I last drove the 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 in circa August 1999, just 22 years ago, but hope to get it back on the road again in further upgraded form (including changing from a single-circuit to a dual-circuit brake hydraulic system), in the not too distant future.

I don't drive close to the vehicles in front of me, so I don't envisage any problem stopping, even if an ultra-modern car with excessively fierce brakes slams them on without warning! In New Zealand, one would be fined and receive demerit points on one's driving licence for ramming a vehicle in the rear, because one had failed to stop in time. There are a few motoring offences there, which result in an immediate 28 day suspension of one’s driving licence, obliging one to make alternative arrangements to get home!

I only used the brakes when I needed to, and minimised the necessity by driving sensibly; driving at a sensible speed, leaving plenty of following distance between myself and the vehicles in front, anticipated the traffic flow, and usually decelerated when necessary by easing off the throttle, which probably contributed significantly to my better than average fuel economy and tyre lifespan.

In 101,000 miles of driving the 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300, I had yet to wear out the third set of front disc brake pads (original factory-set plus two replacement sets | third set fitted on 31st December 1989 at 80,415 miles | indicating an average brake disc-pad life of circa 40,000 miles) and the original front brake discs exhibit minimal signs of wear.

The only reason I replaced the original factory-fitted set of rear brake shoes on 10th August 1991 at 85,369 miles (as recorded in my 1974 Onward, BLMC Triumph Toledo 1300 HL, Diary of Servicing, Maintenance, Repair and Modification), was because the brake-shoes’ friction linings had glazed owing to infrequent gentle use.

The original factory-fitted set of rear brake shoes, still had a lot of friction material remaining, and might have lasted more than 200,000 miles before they wore out! Sadly, I only got just over 35,000 miles’ worth of wear, out of each of the five 175 SR13 (i.e. 175/80 R13) Kelly-Springfield Steelmark radial tyres that I replaced on 11th July 1987 at 62,967 miles. The replacement 185/70 R13 Firestone S211 radial tyres are still on the car, but will be replaced in due course!

Irrespective of what type of brakes a vehicle is equipped with, the maximum braking effect (i.e. deceleration) is limited by the coefficient of friction between the road surface and the tyre’s contact patches. Unless tyres are literally “sticky” (as some special racing tyres might be!), the coefficient of friction is limited to a maximum of ONE (i.e. 1•0 . . . ) on a good-quality dry road surface, which in turn limits one’s deceleration to a maximum of 9•8 m/s² under ideal conditions; assuming that the applied braking force on each wheel, exactly equals the portion of the vehicle’s weight acting through the associated tyre’s contact patch, requiring that the braking bias from front to rear and right to left is perfect under all braking conditions.

Substituting exotic ventilated front disc brakes and rear disc brakes, will NOT increase the maximum possible deceleration. What it will do, for a vehicle that is being driven hard at high speed (unlikely in a Triumph Toledo 1300) or descending a long, steep hill with which engine-braking in an appropriate gear cannot cope, and consequently is frequently subjected to heavy sustained braking, is to better dissipate the high rates of frictional heat generation, and hence limit brake fade.

Fundamentally, brake fade is the phenomenon, whereby the coefficient of friction between the rubbing brake materials (i.e. drums & discs with their shoes & pads) is reduced by the effect of increased temperature, requiring greater hydraulic pressure & associated force on the brake-pedal, to produce the same braking torque on the wheels. In extreme cases, the brake materials might suffer mechanical failure owing to excessive temperatures.

[naskeet]

I also failed to mention when I originally posted as I didn't believe it was relevant at the time but this car is my daily driver. I don't currently use it that regularly as I don't have a commute to work and when I do I don't drive dangerously, always leave plenty of room between me and other cars, but, originality aside, it's probably about time that I upgraded as if I intend to keep using it as I have it needs to be as safe as I can possibly make it.

Thanks again for everyone's comments, they have helped me greatly in making a decision as up until now I've been toying between keeping originality and drivability but ultimately, safety comes first.

Aaron

According to Sub-Sections 84.10.01 & 84.10.21, Section 84 – Windscreen Wipers & Washers of the official BLMC loose-leaf Triumph Toledo workshop manual (brown, four-ring file | Triumph Part No. 545168), the early-model Triumph Toledo was equipped with a manual, hand-operated windscreen-washer pump.

If this is the case with your pre-1972 Triumph Toledo, then it would be beneficial to upgrade the windscreen-washer system with an electric water-pump and a larger-capacity windscreen-washer reservoir; ideally of significantly larger capacity than the two-pint (i.e. 1•14 litres) reservoir that was factory-fitted to the later-model Triumph Toledos & Dolomites.

I am presently investigating an inexpensive (i.e. circa £12), Chinese made, cuboid-shaped, 2•5 litre translucent-plastic, fluid-reservoir, with mounting bracket, said to be intended for petrol or diesel fuelling an auxiliary heater. If it can be mounted within a Triumph Toledo or Dolomite engine compartment, it might be suitable for use as a larger-capacity windscreen-washer reservoir.

The 2•5 litre reservoir’s stated nominal dimensions are: 160 mm high (not including filler) x 150 mm wide (side with mounting bracket) x 140 mm long.

[naskeet]

Recommended, modest-cost Triumph Toledo upgrades:

1) Retro-fit front suspension anti-roll bar (ex Triumph Dolomite 1300, 1500, 1500HL, 1850, 1850HL & Sprint);

To Clear Triumph Dolomite & Sprint Anti Roll Bar No Mounting Brackets Available, Condition: Used, Price: £10.99

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174536682935 ... SwDPtfwXeR

2) Retro-fit rear suspension anti-roll bar (ex Triumph Dolomite 1850, 1850HL & Sprint);

Triumph Dolomite 1300/1500 Toledo Anti Roll Bar Restoration Classic Car Part, Condition: Used, Price: £13.99

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383393729879 ... SwpI5eL2yO

Dolomite Sprint 1850 Rear Anti-Roll Bar Dolomite Toledo Upgrade, Condition: Used, Price: £15.00

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265179838474 ... SwzmxgtK91

TRIUMPH DOLOMITE SPRINT REAR ANTI ROLL BAR, Condition:Used, Price: £24.99

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184798062067 ... SwhGZgiSBu

To me, this looks like a rear anti-roll bar originating from a front-wheel drive Triumph 1500, which would probably not clear the propeller-shaft on a rear-wheel drive car!

3) Retro-fit thermostatically-controlled electric radiator-cooling fan, with manual-override switch and tell-tale light (substitute in place of V-belt driven fan);

4) Substitute translucent cooling-system expansion tank (ex late-model Triumph Dolomite), to simplify weekly fluid-level maintenance check. This was something I did in January 1989;

5) Upgrade headlamps, if not already done by a previous owner

6) Retro-fit matched pair of front fog lights;

7) Retro-fit matched pair rear fog lights;

8) Retro-fit a high-level brake light;

9) Retro-fit matched pair of factory-standard reversing lights;

10) Retro-fit supplementary, high-intensity “reversing lights” (e.g. repurposed front fog lights or work lights, with opaque covers) to aid night-time reversing in unlit car parks and driveways;

11) Retro-fit a matched pair of direction-indicator side-repeater lamps (n.b. obligatory on vehicles first registered on or after 1st April 1986);

12) Retro-fit matched pairs of front & rear side-marker lights cum reflectors (n.b. obligatory in the USA from circa 1973 onward), which are a desirable safety feature, especially when emerging from a concealed side-road or driveway at night;

13) Retro-fit hazard warning light system;

14) Substitute adjustable-length windscreen-wiper arms (preferably matt or satin black, to eliminate glare from reflected sunlight) to facilitate the use of longer than standard windscreen-wiper blades. In July 1985, I substituted Pacet PA3 brand, satin-black, adjustable-length, windscreen-wiper arms, with which I used 15½ inch SVD wash/wiper blades.

http://texautomotive.com/classic_wiper_arms.html

http://texautomotive.com/classic_wiper_blades.html

http://texautomotive.com/classic_accessories.html

15) Upgrade windscreen washer system: 1st choice – Swedish-made, SVD or SWW windscreen wash/wiper blades (if still available!?!) OR 2nd choice – wiper-arm mounted, clip-on washer-jet units OR 3rd choice – reposition existing washer jets & add two extra washer jets (ex Toledo or Dolomite) so they are as close to equally spaced as practical and distributed across the full width of the ventilation grille, to give more even water distribution;

Advertisement in the Motor magazine, in circa 1984, for Swedish-made SVD wash-wiper blade kits



Impressionistic illustration, from a 1985 issue of the Daily Mail newspaper, showing water-droplets from the blade-rubbers of a pair of Swedish-made SVD wash-wiper blades



SVD or SWW Wash/Wiper Blades Literature – Sweden

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/ma ... sweden.php

Swedish made, universal SVD wash/wiper blade kit, with spare wiper blade rubbers, plus a few other commonly available clips and alternative sized grommets.



As fitted to my 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 and 1973 VW 1600 Type 2 in 1985

http://texautomotive.com/classic_washer_products.html

http://texautomotive.com/classic_accessories.html

16) Interior, rear-view, anti-dazzle, dipping mirror (ex 1975/76 Triumph Toledo & 1976~80 Triumph Dolomite);

17) Exterior, rear-view, convex-lensed, anti-dazzle, tinted mirrors on both the driver’s and front-passenger’s doors (still available new from TEX);

http://texautomotive.com/classic.html

http://texautomotive.com/classic_exterior_mirrors.html

http://texautomotive.com/classic_mirror_spares.html

http://texautomotive.com/mirror_glass.html

https://www.motoringclassics.co.uk/part ... steel.html

https://www.motoringclassics.co.uk/inde ... 68891.html

18) Substitute steering-column mounted, windscreen wiper & washer stalk-switch (ex Triumph 1500 or Dolomite), with single-pass flick-wipe facility;

19) Substitute smaller, 14½ inch diameter Trumph Dolomite, three-spoke (preferably with satin-black spokes, to minimise glare from reflected sunlight) steering wheel, for greater comfort and ease of stalk-switch operation;

20) Retro-fit rear seat belts; ideally using something like Kangol “Generation” seat belts or Securon “All Ages” seat belts, which provide greater adjustability for passengers of short stature;

21) Substitute positive battery-cable with bolt-tightened clamp (ex late-model Triumph Dolomite 1300, 1500 or 1500HL) in place of original positive battery-cable with push-on helmet, held in place by a self-tapping-screw;

22) Retro-fit a voltmeter to monitor battery condition (e.g. to show open-circuit voltage when ignition is off and when cranking engine from cold, to indicate the effect of increasing internal resistance with age) and alternator voltage-regulator output (i.e. insufficient or excessive regulated charging-voltage is likely to reduce battery life).

Board index » The Triumph Dolomite Club » The Public Bar - General Chat » “Factory-Standard, Alternative & Supplementary Instruments”

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=29524

23) In the absence of an air-conditioning option, it would be desirable to supplement the hot-air & cold-air ventilation provision, especially at upper-leg and lower-torso levels, to improve heating in cold weather and evaporation of sweat during periods of hot, humid weather. This is something I am still considering!

Options I am considering, are Y-junctions inserted into the hoses that connect to the dashboard’s two circular vents and/or fitting supplementary cold/warm/hot air-supply outlet spigots to the rear & sides of the sheet-steel heater box. These would be connected via ducts and/or hoses to vents beneath the dashboard.

The Triumph 1500 & 1500TC and Triumph Dolomite 1850, 1500HL, 1850HL & Sprint, has an additional heater-box outlet, directed horizontally beneath the associated dashboard, to moulded plastic vents with provision for the carburettor-choke control and cigar lighter.

Amongst various items I salvaged from a defunct Triumph Dolomite 1500HL several years ago, was the heater box with three air-flow outlets (upward, downward & rearward) and the moulded plastic vents with carburettor-choke control and cigar lighter, which are compatible with the Dolomite HL dashboard already substituted into my Triumph Toledo.

24) Rationalise the gear-lever gaiters. The conical, integrated carpeting gaiter of the gearbox-cover carpet, abrades against the underlying rubber gaiter, wearing holes in both. It would be better to completely eliminate the conical, integrated carpeting gaiter and create a satin-black (or other colour) metal trim-ring to fit over the circular edge of gearbox-cover carpet and the base of the rubber gaiter.

25) Retro-fit fabric-mesh, roller sun-blinds to the rear and side windows, to exclude glare and minimise risk of visible-glare and radiated-heat induced headaches; something to which I am prone myself. Whilst on a touring holiday in France during the 1980s, I came across such automotive sun-blinds in a hypermarket there;

26) Retro-fit a set of four door-aperture, upper-sill, scuff-protection plates (ex Triumph Dolomite HL or Sprint).


Some of these, I have already documented in the following topic thread about my own four-door 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300, to which I shall be adding further material in the future, in an approximately chronological sequence up to 1999, and ultimately to the present day:

Board index » The Triumph Dolomite Club » Dolomite-related [Start here!] » 40+ Years With A 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 “HL Special”

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29933

Upgrading the Headlamps – Summer 1976

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29933#p293860

Retro-Fitted Rear Seat Belts – Late-1970s

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29933#p316409

Engine-Cooling System Maintenance & Upgrades – Autumn 1980 onward

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 97#p335497

Retro-Fitted Triumph Dolomite Sprint, Front & Rear Suspension Anti-Roll Bars & De-Cambered the Front Wheels – Summer 1982 & Winter 1982/83

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 98#p335498

Upgrading Windscreen Washers Part 1 – Retro-Fitted Two Supplementary Windscreen-Washer Jets – Autumn 1982

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29933&p=316553#p316553

Retro-Fitted Rear Fog-Lights – Autumn 1982

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 99#p335499

Substituted 7-inch Lucas 20-20 Homofocal Front Fog Lamps – January 1983

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 30#p335684

Retro-Fitted a Lucas Square-8 Supplementary Reversing Lamp – Autumn 1983

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 55#p335755

Substitute & Supplementary, Right & Left Hand TEX Door Mirrors – Autumn 1983

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 05#p335505

Substituted Triumph Dolomite Adjustable Steering Column, Windscreen Wiper & Washer Switch and Other Associated Switch Gear – Winter 1982/83

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 02#p335502

Bay Window Bus > 1968~79 VW Type 2 window wiper & washer upgrades

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=186468

There are other modifications & upgrades which I would consider desirable for a 1970~76 Triumph Toledo 1300 or 1500, but whether you would consider them “affordable”, would depend upon your budgetry constraints, the present cost of second-hand Triumph Dolomite HL and other parts that I obtained at modest cost, and how much of the work you could reasonably undertake on a DIY basis.

[aaronstorey24]

Recommended, modest-cost Triumph Toledo upgrades:

1) Retro-fit front suspension anti-roll bar (ex Triumph Dolomite 1300, 1500, 1500HL, 1850, 1850HL & Sprint);

To Clear Triumph Dolomite & Sprint Anti Roll Bar No Mounting Brackets Available, Condition: Used, Price: £10.99

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174536682935 ... SwDPtfwXeR

2) Retro-fit rear suspension anti-roll bar (ex Triumph Dolomite 1850, 1850HL & Sprint);

Triumph Dolomite 1300/1500 Toledo Anti Roll Bar Restoration Classic Car Part, Condition: Used, Price: £13.99

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383393729879 ... SwpI5eL2yO

Dolomite Sprint 1850 Rear Anti-Roll Bar Dolomite Toledo Upgrade, Condition: Used, Price: £15.00

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265179838474 ... SwzmxgtK91

TRIUMPH DOLOMITE SPRINT REAR ANTI ROLL BAR, Condition:Used, Price: £24.99

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184798062067 ... SwhGZgiSBu

To me, this looks like a rear anti-roll bar originating from a front-wheel drive Triumph 1500, which would probably not clear the propeller-shaft on a rear-wheel drive car!

3) Retro-fit thermostatically-controlled electric radiator-cooling fan, with manual-override switch and tell-tale light (substitute in place of V-belt driven fan);

4) Substitute translucent cooling-system expansion tank (ex late-model Triumph Dolomite), to simplify weekly fluid-level maintenance check. This was something I did in January 1989;

5) Upgrade headlamps, if not already done by a previous owner

6) Retro-fit matched pair of front fog lights;

7) Retro-fit matched pair rear fog lights;

Retro-fit a high-level brake light;

9) Retro-fit matched pair of factory-standard reversing lights;

10) Retro-fit supplementary, high-intensity “reversing lights” (e.g. repurposed front fog lights or work lights, with opaque covers) to aid night-time reversing in unlit car parks and driveways;

11) Retro-fit a matched pair of direction-indicator side-repeater lamps (n.b. obligatory on vehicles first registered on or after 1st April 1986);

12) Retro-fit matched pairs of front & rear side-marker lights cum reflectors (n.b. obligatory in the USA from circa 1973 onward), which are a desirable safety feature, especially when emerging from a concealed side-road or driveway at night;

13) Retro-fit hazard warning light system;

14) Substitute adjustable-length windscreen-wiper arms (preferably matt or satin black, to eliminate glare from reflected sunlight) to facilitate the use of longer than standard windscreen-wiper blades. In July 1985, I substituted Pacet PA3 brand, satin-black, adjustable-length, windscreen-wiper arms, with which I used 15½ inch SVD wash/wiper blades.

http://texautomotive.com/classic_wiper_arms.html

http://texautomotive.com/classic_wiper_blades.html

http://texautomotive.com/classic_accessories.html

15) Upgrade windscreen washer system: 1st choice – Swedish-made, SVD or SWW windscreen wash/wiper blades (if still available!?!) OR 2nd choice – wiper-arm mounted, clip-on washer-jet units OR 3rd choice – reposition existing washer jets & add two extra washer jets (ex Toledo or Dolomite) so they are as close to equally spaced as practical and distributed across the full width of the ventilation grille, to give more even water distribution;

Advertisement in the Motor magazine, in circa 1984, for Swedish-made SVD wash-wiper blade kits



Impressionistic illustration, from a 1985 issue of the Daily Mail newspaper, showing water-droplets from the blade-rubbers of a pair of Swedish-made SVD wash-wiper blades



SVD or SWW Wash/Wiper Blades Literature – Sweden

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/ma ... sweden.php

Swedish made, universal SVD wash/wiper blade kit, with spare wiper blade rubbers, plus a few other commonly available clips and alternative sized grommets.



As fitted to my 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 and 1973 VW 1600 Type 2 in 1985

http://texautomotive.com/classic_washer_products.html

http://texautomotive.com/classic_accessories.html

16) Interior, rear-view, anti-dazzle, dipping mirror (ex 1975/76 Triumph Toledo & 1976~80 Triumph Dolomite);

17) Exterior, rear-view, convex-lensed, anti-dazzle, tinted mirrors on both the driver’s and front-passenger’s doors (still available new from TEX);

http://texautomotive.com/classic.html

http://texautomotive.com/classic_exterior_mirrors.html

http://texautomotive.com/classic_mirror_spares.html

http://texautomotive.com/mirror_glass.html

https://www.motoringclassics.co.uk/part ... steel.html

https://www.motoringclassics.co.uk/inde ... 68891.html

18) Substitute steering-column mounted, windscreen wiper & washer stalk-switch (ex Triumph 1500 or Dolomite), with single-pass flick-wipe facility;

19) Substitute smaller, 14½ inch diameter Trumph Dolomite, three-spoke (preferably with satin-black spokes, to minimise glare from reflected sunlight) steering wheel, for greater comfort and ease of stalk-switch operation;

20) Retro-fit rear seat belts; ideally using something like Kangol “Generation” seat belts or Securon “All Ages” seat belts, which provide greater adjustability for passengers of short stature;

21) Substitute positive battery-cable with bolt-tightened clamp (ex late-model Triumph Dolomite 1300, 1500 or 1500HL) in place of original positive battery-cable with push-on helmet, held in place by a self-tapping-screw;

22) Retro-fit a voltmeter to monitor battery condition (e.g. to show open-circuit voltage when ignition is off and when cranking engine from cold, to indicate the effect of increasing internal resistance with age) and alternator voltage-regulator output (i.e. insufficient or excessive regulated charging-voltage is likely to reduce battery life).

Board index » The Triumph Dolomite Club » The Public Bar - General Chat » “Factory-Standard, Alternative & Supplementary Instruments”

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=29524

23) In the absence of an air-conditioning option, it would be desirable to supplement the hot-air & cold-air ventilation provision, especially at upper-leg and lower-torso levels, to improve heating in cold weather and evaporation of sweat during periods of hot, humid weather. This is something I am still considering!

Options I am considering, are Y-junctions inserted into the hoses that connect to the dashboard’s two circular vents and/or fitting supplementary cold/warm/hot air-supply outlet spigots to the rear & sides of the sheet-steel heater box. These would be connected via ducts and/or hoses to vents beneath the dashboard.

The Triumph 1500 & 1500TC and Triumph Dolomite 1850, 1500HL, 1850HL & Sprint, has an additional heater-box outlet, directed horizontally beneath the associated dashboard, to moulded plastic vents with provision for the carburettor-choke control and cigar lighter.

Amongst various items I salvaged from a defunct Triumph Dolomite 1500HL several years ago, was the heater box with three air-flow outlets (upward, downward & rearward) and the moulded plastic vents with carburettor-choke control and cigar lighter, which are compatible with the Dolomite HL dashboard already substituted into my Triumph Toledo.

24) Rationalise the gear-lever gaiters. The conical, integrated carpeting gaiter of the gearbox-cover carpet, abrades against the underlying rubber gaiter, wearing holes in both. It would be better to completely eliminate the conical, integrated carpeting gaiter and create a satin-black (or other colour) metal trim-ring to fit over the circular edge of gearbox-cover carpet and the base of the rubber gaiter.

25) Retro-fit fabric-mesh, roller sun-blinds to the rear and side windows, to exclude glare and minimise risk of visible-glare and radiated-heat induced headaches; something to which I am prone myself. Whilst on a touring holiday in France during the 1980s, I came across such automotive sun-blinds in a hypermarket there;

26) Retro-fit a set of four door-aperture, upper-sill, scuff-protection plates (ex Triumph Dolomite HL or Sprint).


Some of these, I have already documented in the following topic thread about my own four-door 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300, to which I shall be adding further material in the future, in an approximately chronological sequence up to 1999, and ultimately to the present day:

Board index » The Triumph Dolomite Club » Dolomite-related [Start here!] » 40+ Years With A 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 “HL Special”

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29933

Upgrading the Headlamps – Summer 1976

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29933#p293860

Retro-Fitted Rear Seat Belts – Late-1970s

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29933#p316409

Engine-Cooling System Maintenance & Upgrades – Autumn 1980 onward

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 97#p335497

Retro-Fitted Triumph Dolomite Sprint, Front & Rear Suspension Anti-Roll Bars & De-Cambered the Front Wheels – Summer 1982 & Winter 1982/83

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 98#p335498

Upgrading Windscreen Washers Part 1 – Retro-Fitted Two Supplementary Windscreen-Washer Jets – Autumn 1982

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29933&p=316553#p316553

Retro-Fitted Rear Fog-Lights – Autumn 1982

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 99#p335499

Substituted 7-inch Lucas 20-20 Homofocal Front Fog Lamps – January 1983

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 30#p335684

Retro-Fitted a Lucas Square-8 Supplementary Reversing Lamp – Autumn 1983

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 55#p335755

Substitute & Supplementary, Right & Left Hand TEX Door Mirrors – Autumn 1983

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 05#p335505

Substituted Triumph Dolomite Adjustable Steering Column, Windscreen Wiper & Washer Switch and Other Associated Switch Gear – Winter 1982/83

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 02#p335502

Bay Window Bus > 1968~79 VW Type 2 window wiper & washer upgrades

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=186468

There are other modifications & upgrades which I would consider desirable for a 1970~76 Triumph Toledo 1300 or 1500, but whether you would consider them “affordable”, would depend upon your budgetry constraints, the present cost of second-hand Triumph Dolomite HL and other parts that I obtained at modest cost, and how much of the work you could reasonably undertake on a DIY basis.

This is fantastic thank you!

[naskeet]

Several years ago, whilst I was salvaging various bits & pieces from a late-model Triumph Dolomite 1500 HL, I also acquired the three ceiling-level passenger grab-handles & fastening screws as illustrated below, on the off-chance that my 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 might have the requisite threaded holes in the ceiling, much as the front seat-pedestals had the requisite wide-spaced threaded holes for the wider Triumph Dolomite HL front-seat runners; something which proved to be very convenient for me in the early-1980s.

Does anyone know whether this is so?

Front interior seen from nearside front door



Front interior seen from offside front door



Rear interior seen from offside rear door



Bearing in mind that the Triumph Toledo was built in both RHD & LHD versions, was the ceiling-mounted courtesy light mounted on the opposite side for the LHD version, and if so, I am wondering whether one could conveniently fit two courtesy lights, with one on either side!?!

[naskeet]

It’s my subjective opinion that one of the factors associated with short-term reliability and planned obsolescence, is the adoption of “maintenance-free” or “sealed-for-life” components”, of which a prime example is the inability to lubricate components by the top-up of oil or grease at regular intervals, which would prolong the service-life.

In the case of the Triumph Toledo and/or Dolomite, this includes the water pump, propeller-shaft universal joints, the outboard steering track-rod ball-joints and the top & bottom steering-swivels (i.e. ball-joints).

According to the lubrication chart, in Sub-Section 10.00.01 of Section 10 – Maintenance, of the official BLMC – Triumph Toledo Repair Operations manual, the water pump of the early-model Toledo could be lubricated at regular intervals using a grease gun. I have yet to see one of these!

In March 1987, when I had to replace one of the propeller-shaft universal joints of my 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300, at a mileage of 60,956, I noticed that the three original universal joints (including the worn one at the rear end), had small threaded blanking plugs, which could be replaced by a grease nipple of thread-size ¼” x 28 UNF, enabling the universal joints to be regularly greased at the same time as the propeller-shaft’s sliding yoke, as part of the normal service schedule.

Sadly, the replacement universal joint I purchased at a local motor factor for £4•90 (i.e. Moprod MUJ101 282743), had no provision for a grease nipple. As the car approached a mileage of circa 101,000 in late 1998, it became apparent that another universal joint required replacement. This time I was able to source from another motor factor, a different brand of replacement universal joint (i.e. Quinton Hazell QL102) which was already fitted with a long-reach grease nipple.

In Sub-Section 60.15.12 of Section 60 – Front Suspension, of the official BLMC – Triumph Toledo Repair Operations manual, there is an illustration showing the upper steering-swivel (i.e. ball-joint) with a threaded-plug & washer. This threaded-plug & washer is also visible in several other illustrations on various pages of the manual.

Although it appears from this manual, that the provision for fitting a grease nipple of thread-size ¼” x 28 UNF, is intended primarily for charging the upper steering-swivel (i.e. ball-joint) with grease, following disassembly, overhaul & reassembly, it can also be used for regular greasing as part of the normal service schedule, which includes greasing the steering rack. I have since noticed that the upper steering-swivel (i.e. ball-joint) of a late-model Triumph Dolomite 1500HL, does not have this facility!

However, on Page 45 of the Steering & Front Suspension sub-section, of the Maintenance & Adjustments section, of the Toledo 1300 Handbook (BLMC Rover-Triumph Publication Part No. 545116, 4th Edition), it states:

Upper Steering Ball Joint Lubrication (Fig. 23)

Remove the threaded plug from the top of each upper steering ball joint (arrowed) and fit a suitable grease nipple - ¼ in x 28 U.N.F.

Apply a grease gun and continue pumping until grease exudes from the joint. Remove the nipple and refit the plug

The non-model-specific Triumph Passport to Service booklet, which refers to lower rather than upper steering swivels, implies that the greasing of transmission and steering & suspension joints should be done at 6000-mile service intervals.

Sadly, the lower steering-swivel (i.e. ball-joint) of the Triumph Toledo does not have provision to fit a grease nipple, to facilitate regular greasing, which is possibly why one of mine exhibited significant wear and play in the ball joint at a mileage of just under 54,000 in March 1986.

Likewise, the Toledo’s factory-fitted outboard steering track-rod ball-joints, also lack provision to fit a grease nipple, to facilitate regular greasing. However, in a recent topic thread about power-steering racks, it was mentioned that outboard steering track-rod ball-joints with grease nipple fitted are now readily available. When and if the outboard steering track-rod ball-joints on my 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 need replacing, this is what I shall substitute!

Board index » The Triumph Dolomite Club » Dolomite-related [Start here!] » POWER STEERING

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... =4&t=34684

« I recently put on new track rod ends, they had passed the MOT but had an advisory for the rubbers and I ended up putting on new greaseable ones. It surprised me how much of a difference that made also. »

Track-rod end GSJ156 with grease nipple



If greasing moving parts at regular intervals using a grease gun, significantly extends the service life of components and reduces the likelihood of needing to replace them during the life of the car, I am only too willing to spend a few more minutes during my regular service schedules doing this.

I wonder what other components we can identify, which could potentially have provision for lubrication points!?!

[naskeet]

The only reason I replaced the original factory-fitted set of rear brake shoes on 10th August 1991 at 85,369 miles (as recorded in my 1974 Onward, BLMC Triumph Toledo 1300 HL, Diary of Servicing, Maintenance, Repair and Modification), was because the brake-shoes’ friction linings had glazed owing to infrequent gentle use.

Front Cover of the Diary of Servicing, Maintenance, Repair & Modification



The double-sided, A4-format, service-record sheet illustrated below, is based upon the two-page, 60-item service schedule (i.e. Pages 10.00.02 & 10.00.03), from the official BLMC Triumph Toledo workshop manual, with the four original headed (1,000, 3,000, 6,000 & 12,000 mile headings) tick-box columns deleted, and replaced with two headed columns, for indicated-mileage & completion-date, which would be filled in as each required service-item was completed, over a period of days, weeks or months, dependent upon circumstances.

Spare space on the service-record sheet, is allocated to explanatory notes and additional information, including any remedial or modification work that was undertaken during the service period, or in the intervening period before the next scheduled service. At the end of the service-record sheet, is a dedicated space to enter dates & indicated mileages, at the start and finish of the service schedule.

Triumph Toledo Service-Record Sheet

[naskeet]

Spark Plugs: Service Items 14 & 15 – Rather than follow the normal service schedule of just cleaning & adjusting spark plugs at 6000 mile intervals and renewing spark plugs at 12000 mile intervals, I chose to service the spark plugs at 3000 mile intervals and renew them whenever necessary, which was typically at much longer intervals than 12000 miles.

After cleaning the spark plugs to remove glaze or carbon deposits, using an after-market, DIY accessory spark-plug cleaner and some Champion-branded, spark-plug-cleaning, carborundum blast medium (I bought a large job lot at a local general store, selling bankrupt stock), I filed the centre & earth electrodes using a plug-file (to obtain sharp edges, which would intensify the spark) and adjusted the electrode gap.

Brakes: Service Items 43, 44 & 59 – Rather than follow the normal service schedule of inspecting disc-brakes (discs & pads) and drum-brakes (drums & shoes) at 3000 mile and 12000 mile intervals respectively, I inspected both at 3000 mile intervals; also loosening with a brush and vacuum-cleaning the dust deposits coating the surfaces of drums and shoes.

Afterwards, I readjusted the rear drum brakes and retracted the front brake-caliper pistons by levering them away from the pads using a thin palette-knife (to protect the pistons & dust seals) in combination with a tapered carpenter’s screw-driver, to minimise the likelihood of the pistons sticking in the bores.

Either because or in spite of these revised procedures, the left-to-right brake-balance for both the front & rear brakes, was always observed to be almost perfect, when tested on the brake dynamometer, during annual MOT inspections.

Brake Dynamometer Testing

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album ... id=2000078



https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album ... id=2000077



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Noting various people’s past problems with severe vehicle corrosion, here’s a book one might be interested in reading. The author is a professional corrosion technologist, who was said to have been invoked as an expert witness pertaining to disputes between motor manufacturers and car owners, regarding corrosion warranty claims.

Dr. Hugh McArthur, Motor Vehicle Corrosion Prediction and Prevention on Vehicles (1950 - Present Day)", Expert Books, 1990, ISBN 0-9515787-0-7 (paperback) & 0-9515787-1-5 (hardback).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corrosion-Pred ... oks&sr=1-1

I came across a copy of this then recently published book in the university-library, whilst I was taking a one-year postgraduate course in scientific computing during 1990/91, at the Royal Military College of Science, on the Oxfordshire & Wiltshire border; a journey for my 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300, of nearly 130 miles each way (via A130, A127, M25, M40 and Oxfordshire country roads) at the weekends, to and from Canvey Island.

I found the content of this book, to be quite an eye opener, to say the least and would recommend that it be read by anyone contemplating, the 'restoration' of an elderly vehicle, trying to prolong the service life of an already sound vehicle, or whom is seeking to make a claim against a corrosion warranty, on a relatively modern vehicle!

I do not suggest that BLMC-Triumph or any other manufacturers, had deliberately sought to limit the lifespan of their products, but long term corrosion resistance is unlikely to have been one of their main priorities. In general, corrosion is associated with spot-welded seams, sharp-edged panels & spot-weld craters, paint-sprayer shadowing, inadequate paint film, poor seam-sealant application, air-pressure differential induced road-water spray via process drain-holes and inherent moisture traps. Despite this criticism, the original paint had provided excellent protection on my 1974 Triumph Toledo, in those areas where it was properly applied and the substrate correctly prepared.