Honeysuckle 2-door toledo - NBP

[yorkshire_spam]

Really interested in how you get on with the efi/ignition set up as I'm considering Speeduino for the Spitfire.

[jackharper]

Made a bit of a start on the intake manifold design today. Here is one of the flanges made up in CAD, rest of the design to follow. Special thanks to my friend Chris who helped me get started!




vs the real thing (on a carb manifold)

[jackharper]

Really interested in how you get on with the efi/ignition set up as I'm considering Speeduino for the Spitfire.

Will keep this thread updated, hoping it'll be successful. I'm going to try and make everything as open as possible, so things like CAD drawings, base maps etc. i'll try and make available to you!

[jackharper]

Bit of an update as it took a little while to do!

I have just finished assembling and soldering the Speeduino itself, complete with a VR conditioner which is used for when a VR sensor is being used to monitor the trigger wheel on the crank pulley - still need to measure and make this, then get it welded/bolted onto the original pulley. I think I stayed up til about midnight last night, probably took me 4-5 hours in total to get everything all together. Still need to hardware test with a 12v supply to the board, but for now the ignition lights work and can't see any smoke so going to test with 12 but assume it's OK for now. Here is the finished unit:





Aside from this, as an overview, I have circled what I'll actually be using for this project. I still need to make an enclosure for the ECU and figure out the nicest way of making a plug that isn't a 40-pin IDE ribbon cable.. thinking of using some of the bosch weatherproof connectors for each row of the 40-pin. Anything else I'll probably make up as I go along as I'm not sure what other things I'll need from the board. For certain I am going to be controlling the fuel pump and a thermo fan, both of these will just be powering relays.

Have decided the best self contained way of doing fueling is to use a low pressure fuel pump, sat outside the tank, going to high pressure fuel pump which will sit in a swirl pot. Not sure what i'll do for venting the tank just yet, need to pull it out and see if there are provisions on it like there are with a spitfire.

Still lots to do but feel like I'm making a bit of progress!




Edit: a basic hardware test went well, I have spark + fuel!

[jackharper]

Not made much progress since the last post, as I've been waiting on a few bits to arrive and back in the chin scratching phase.

Seeing as I need to get a pair of fuel lines made up anyway, I'm thinking of grafting a plastic fuel tank out of another car which has a built in fuel pump. I've read up and the ford KA ones may be too large - i need to pull the tank out of my car and measure the space. Perhaps an even smaller car like a VW up/toyota aygo may fit? Been thinking whether it's really worth keeping the original tank and using a low press fuel pump to feed into a swirl pot with the high press fuel pump built in but I am thinking i may just simplify things by using an already-manufactured option as it'll have tank venting etc built in and a pump I can just type into euro car parts and order if it fails.

Still need to get the trigger wheel mated to the crank pulley too - once that is done and the VR sensor is mounted I should be able to remove the distributor entirely and control ignition via the ECU, so may make a sub-loom for timing + ignition and see if i can get it going! Effectively then what I've done is replicated something like a megajolt.

[jackharper]

Again not heaps of progress made but I'll make a little update for the sake of showing it off:

I have bolted the crank pulley back on, this time with a 36-1 trigger wheel attached to it! I thought this wouldn't work with the existing timing marks, but I managed to get away with bending them up by about 4mm and it fits with some clearance.






The trigger wheel runs pretty much true so should work well. I have decided to go with a hall effect sensor rather than a VR as they're a bit nicer to work with (they give a square wave by default rather than a sine like a VR sensor) and don't require any sort of signal conditioner. I think they also use the same amount of pins on the ECU connector too as you no longer need a VR-, just a signal, 5v and Gnd.

Next step is to create an adjustable bracket for the sensor to be mounted to, then test it with a scope and modify air gap, though the sensor itself hasn't arrived yet, possibly due to the chip shortage. Once this is done I am going to wire up the electric fan I've bought to the relay which is fed from the ECU + coolant temp sensor.

I took the car out on a last spin before the winter and it behaved well the whole time. Once the ignition is sorted and I've driven around in the car to make sure it's working under all conditions I'll start with the fuel supply side of things.

[yorkshire_spam]

Getting there! Slowly but surely!

[new to this]

When i made my bracket for the trigger wheel sensor,i used the same fixing points as the original timing bracket,when wiring the sensor, you use screened cable but dont connect the screened

Dave

[jackharper]

Cheers guys.

The hall sensor has arrived so i am going to make a timing+ignition+thermofan sub-loom now. Rather than paying individually for wires and conduit I decided to buy a loom from a Ford Focus and strip it instead.

Here it is before:



and after:



Main reason for doing this is cos i'm a cheapskate and didn't want to shell out for loads of different coloured new wire, and you end up with pretty much the same result along with some free conduit afterwards if you strip an existing one anyway.

Next up is mounting the sensor : will probs be doing something similar to you Dave and use the timing cover points for mounting. Also need to fit the relays, fuses and 2-wire temp sensor - this will break the existing gauge but i plan to fix it afterwards.

[new to this]

Cheers guys.

The hall sensor has arrived so i am going to make a timing+ignition+thermofan sub-loom now. Rather than paying individually for wires and conduit I decided to buy a loom from a Ford Focus and strip it instead.

Here it is before:



and after:



Main reason for doing this is cos i'm a cheapskate and didn't want to shell out for loads of different coloured new wire, and you end up with pretty much the same result along with some free conduit afterwards if you strip an existing one anyway.

Next up is mounting the sensor : will probs be doing something similar to you Dave and use the timing cover points for mounting. Also need to fit the relays, fuses and 2-wire temp sensor - this will break the existing gauge but i plan to fix it afterwards.

Good idea about buying an old loom and striping it,i didnt think of that and went down the route buying different colour wires

[Carledo]

Cheers guys.

The hall sensor has arrived so i am going to make a timing+ignition+thermofan sub-loom now. Rather than paying individually for wires and conduit I decided to buy a loom from a Ford Focus and strip it instead.

Here it is before:



and after:



Main reason for doing this is cos i'm a cheapskate and didn't want to shell out for loads of different coloured new wire, and you end up with pretty much the same result along with some free conduit afterwards if you strip an existing one anyway.

Next up is mounting the sensor : will probs be doing something similar to you Dave and use the timing cover points for mounting. Also need to fit the relays, fuses and 2-wire temp sensor - this will break the existing gauge but i plan to fix it afterwards.

Good idea about buying an old loom and striping it,i didnt think of that and went down the route buying different colour wires

I've been ripping looms out of scrap cars for years now, you never know when you'll need a bit of wire with a particular colour code!

Steve

[jackharper]

hahaha, exactly. Just hoping it's long enough as I plan to hide the ECU away behind the parcel shelf - not keen on keeping it in the engine bay!

[new to this]

hahaha, exactly. Just hoping it's long enough as I plan to hide the ECU away behind the parcel shelf - not keen on keeping it in the engine bay!

how big is the ECU ?

[jackharper]

hahaha, exactly. Just hoping it's long enough as I plan to hide the ECU away behind the parcel shelf - not keen on keeping it in the engine bay!

how big is the ECU ?

tiny! the enclosure is about 15x15x7cm I think

[Carledo]

The Dolomega's engine ECU is under the bonnet in the box it occupied in the Donor Omega and mounted in a similar position. I just used the donor car's engine loom intact. As you can see, I also used the capacious box to house all the relays (also nicked from the Omega) and a fuse board for headlights etc.



But I put the transmission ECU behind the glovebox, it was behind the drivers side A post kick panel on the Omega and I had to shorten all the 30+ wires to the trans ECU (and others to the fly by wire throttle, diagnostic plug, instrument panel etc) by more than 3 metres!



I think you will find you have plenty of wire!

One thing the Omega had, as do many modern cars, is a plug (actually 3 plugs in the Omega's case) between the engine/trans and the body/ECUs This is a great idea and i'd recommend you use it! OK it's extra work and you MAY never have to pull the engine ever again. But if you do, it's then only a few seconds work to dismantle the engine wiring from the car and zero chance of making a mistake with what goes where on reassembly!

Steve