Brooklands green codes

[cliftyhanger]

I am ready to flat primer and do a bottom half respray on my Dolly (bought over a year ago, time flies)

I asked my paint supplier for code HAE, which is what I believe is the correct code, however they can't mix that (I presume no details?)
However, I have also seen Brooklands HMM was used on Triumphs, according to this page:
http://triumphspitfire.com/Paint.html

Is it the same or a different shade? Or any other ideas?

I am hoping that I can get a good match for now, but plan on a full respray next year (and fitting sprint running gear at the same time)

[yorkshire_spam]

Maybe ask if they can do BLVC169 - which I think is HAE Brooklands Green by another code? Which I think x-refs to both HMM and HAE but I'm not certain.

Rimmers list BLVC169 as HAE Brooklands, other sites then list BLVC169 as HMM Brooklands.... but not everything you read on the internet is true as Isaac Newton once said.

http://mini-colours.co.uk/colour.php?c=112

[Mad Mart]

You could try 169.

[davidmorr]

I am looking to match French Blue (126). Is there some specification that could be used to make this up, or is colour matching the best approach?

[Carledo]

No matter what colour the car is, or how well it's been cared for, 40+ years of life and sun will have taken it's toll on the paint. So, unless you are painting the entire car, the original paint code on the car is little more than a rough guide!

Best to take the smallest body coloured part you can easily remove (probably the boot lid) down to your paint supplier of choice and get it spectroscopically matched.

If you are buying pre-prepared tins of colour by colour code (whether aerosol or for gun use) you are only going to get close at the very best case scenario.

Steve

[davidmorr]

In this case, the car was stripped and repainted in the 1980s because the original paint was not coping with the Australian sun very well. So the outside paint may not be the original anyway. But then the outside paint has now had 30+ years of exposure and has probably faded a bit in places. The horizontal surfaces will have faded more than the doors for example.

I did think of the boot lid, but it is actually quite faded. Inside the boot lid is not faded but is the original paint. I guess the painter will have to figure out what to do.

[cliftyhanger]

No matter what colour the car is, or how well it's been cared for, 40+ years of life and sun will have taken it's toll on the paint. So, unless you are painting the entire car, the original paint code on the car is little more than a rough guide!

Best to take the smallest body coloured part you can easily remove (probably the boot lid) down to your paint supplier of choice and get it spectroscopically matched.

If you are buying pre-prepared tins of colour by colour code (whether aerosol or for gun use) you are only going to get close at the very best case scenario.

Steve

The car is a few shades already. And I want to get the car on the road and using it, not overly bothered about perfection at the moment.
When the existing engine is out next year I will have an opportunity to paint the whole car, which is usually the best option.

One local paint supplier (who can be eye wateringly expensive) has a secret weapon. There is a chap who does colour matching by eye, and I know bodyshops will travel from a wide area to make use of his skills. Way better than the spectographs, unless they have dramatically improved recently. But for VFM, jawel are hard to beat. Then again, I am an amateur, working in a garage at home. So rather limited experience.

[Carledo]

The last car I had anything to do with painting brooklands green, I just ordered it by name as I couldn't be a***d to look up the code. It was a full respray on a Stag which had been white, then blue, then silver, so matching wasn't important. Not much help there!

More useful (possibly) is that the Dolomega is Vermillion, which also has 2 codes, CAE and CML. I ordered colour for it from Jawel under the CML code because that's what's on the comm plate, but I also bought aerosol cans from the factors by name to paint out the door shuts and other small areas. These came from several different manufacturers (Think I cleaned out the factors whole national stock) and crucially, both colour codes were represented. There didn't seem to be any noticeable difference between the 2 codes in terms of shade.

A man who can do "tinting" ie colour matching by eye, is indeed a rare and valuable commodity. It's a dying art and it really is an art form! It's not enough to have an excellent eye and super duper discernment of colour in shades and tones. I actually have that! What's also needed is the ability to know what to add to make it right, I've watched a few tinters at work, both good and bad, the good ones sometimes add something you'd never imagine would work, but somehow it does! The bad ones mess around for ages, still get it wrong and you end up with 3 times the amount of paint you ordered!

Back in the day, the primary culprit that no-one could match was Russet, it got so, no matter how big the job, I only ever ordered half a litre, knowing that, by the time it was tinted, i'd have enough to paint the whole car, in fact, I frequently did just that when the tint (or more specifically, the guy doing it) was particularly poor. It was less hassle to give the car a quick nib back and a thin coat over, than argue with the customer over the lousy match!

Steve

[xvivalve]

My local paint supplier has shade cards for the BL cars with several variations in hue that he matches to the car; the cards have holes in the middle and it is a relatively easy task to find the nearest if requiring touch up rather than full respray. Each hue card has an individual recipe for the mix, so they can then reproduce fairly accurately. I had some rattle cans made using this process for a Carmine car, probably one of the worst colours for fade and variation, and it worked very successfully. I did have the ability to drive the car to them though.

Romart Automotive, Providence Street, Lye