Hi all
I need to remove the crankshaft bolt of my Sprint so I can remove the front cover and get to the timing chain. The Haynes manual suggests locking the flywheel from the gearbox side using a bent piece of metal. I've just spent a week getting the gearbox back in so don't want to remove it again. I've removed the starter motor to get access from the front of the flywheel, has anyone locked the flywheel using this access? I searched through the forum but couldn't find an answer to this, I think a ratchet gun was suggested but there's no room for this and I think mine is too weak to manage the job anyway. I do have a 1 1/2" socket so that's a start! The car sits on axle stands with no wheels or prop fitted so locking the transmission isn't option currently either.
If you can make room to get it on the nut, invest in a cordless impact driver. You won't regret it.
It was the only way I was able to remove the crankshaft nut on an MX5 having exhausted all other options.
Jerry
A stout screwdriver will lock off the ring gear through the starter motor aperture, but it's much easier with a 'third hand' assistant.
Another oft used technique is to lock off the socket on the crank bolt with a stout bar against the subframe or solid floor and use the starter motor to spin it off.
...but I have to admit, a 'Robert' tool is on my Christmas list!
If I'm doing chains I normally the drop the sump too, it's easy. Then you can clean out the bottom of the sump, make a better job of sealing the timing cover, and more importantly for you, you can lock the crank with a block of wood between the side of the block and a crank web.
Thank you for your replies
I think an battery or air impact wrench is the most common method, or the starter motor, I do have an impact wrench but it doesn't do much! As the camshaft sprocket isn't connected to the camshaft I'm a little concerned that if I try to use an impact wrench it could spin the crank as there is currently reduced resistance, and this could lead to bent valves etc! Perhaps the Robert hand impact wrench and wood holding the crank web is a solution!
K series cam locking tool is my goto solution for this problem. Whip off the starter motor, put the tool on the ring teeth and make sure it is wedge against the bell housing case. Stops the crank turning and the use a break bar/impact gun to the get the bolt off.
Not what the tool was designed to do but it works far more effectively than a screwdriver/bit of metal and it has fitted every car I have tried it on so far.
cleverusername wrote: ↑Sun Jun 05, 2022 10:52 am
K series cam locking tool is my goto solution for this problem. Whip off the starter motor, put the tool on the ring teeth and make sure it is wedge against the bell housing case. Stops the crank turning and the use a break bar/impact gun to the get the bolt off.
Not what the tool was designed to do but it works far more effectively than a screwdriver/bit of metal and it has fitted every car I have tried it on so far.
Put the car in fourth gear get someone to apply the brakes and with a breaker bar fitted off comes the bolt , well that's they way I've always done it !!, Maybe some bolts may take a bit more effort
mahony wrote: ↑Sun Jun 05, 2022 12:41 pm
Put the car in fourth gear get someone to apply the brakes and with a breaker bar fitted off comes the bolt , well that's they way I've always done it !!, Maybe some bolts may take a bit more effort
Thank you for the tip, unfortunately the prop, back axle and all the brakes are not currently on the car!
mahony wrote: ↑Sun Jun 05, 2022 12:41 pm
Put the car in fourth gear get someone to apply the brakes and with a breaker bar fitted off comes the bolt , well that's they way I've always done it !!, Maybe some bolts may take a bit more effort
That is what the Haynes manual on pretty every car suggests and I have never got it to work.
dursley92 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 07, 2022 4:29 pm
I have heard of someone putting a breaker bar against the chassis rail and giving the engine a quick blip on the starter motor. Brutal but effective.
This is MY preferred method, as you say, brutal but effective!
But unfortunately unsuitable, if crank and cam are already disconnected from one another!
Under the prevailing circumstances, I think the OP's best bet is sump off and wooden block locking the crank whilst a large (2ft +) knuckle bar and socket is applied to the dog nut.
Steve
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Hi everyone, thank you for your suggestions. Posting thisupdate to my query, in case anyone with same scenario searches the forum in the future. I managed to get the crankshaft bolt removed, using the cam lock tool recommended by cleverusername on the flywheel (thank you) AND using a method used by a TSSC member which is to increase the tension on the fan belt (to alternator) to hold the pulley.
Actually I intended to also remove the sump and lock the con rods using a block of wood as a back up, at least when I torque it back up, the crank and camshaft should be connected by the chain so if the crankshaft does move at least they should move together!
dursley92 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 07, 2022 4:29 pm
I have heard of someone putting a breaker bar against the chassis rail and giving the engine a quick blip on the starter motor. Brutal but effective.
Just make sure you have the breaker bar set up in the right direction
