Project Lemondrop

[Nathan Mwk 627G]

Welcome to lemon drop chaps and chapettes!!!















Nathan

[Purplebargeken]

I'm gonna rustkill this to the max

[Purplebargeken]

Ok, did some more wire brushing today and have applied lots of lovely rustkiller. Once this has dried properly (overnight), I will paint the panels in good old red oxide primer. I also took the opportunity to wire brush the rusty wheel rim. Thats also rustproofed and will be red oxided tomorrow as well.

Will probably Smoothrite the entire thing after that.

Photos to follow.

[Purplebargeken]

Ok, all painted in red oxide primer, have painted on about 3 or 4 coats. Looking good so far and am pleased with the results. Photos to follow.

[Nathan Mwk 627G]

I think we should rename this club THE TRIUMPH DOLOMITE AND NANDO'S CLUB

Ken the work you have done looks brill, I really would paint the underside in the body colour, seam seal all the joins then stonechip it, you may even be able to mix some white and yellow hammerite together...porbably not the best way but its cheap and cheerfull and people are not going to notice if its a shade or two out!!

Photo's of Kens work...








Nathan

[Purplebargeken]

Cheers Ben, cheers Nath. By the time I'd finished wire brushing it was almost all bare metal. The way to go I suppose, I think I just got a bit carried away. I think that should be enough red oxide on there to ward off things for quite some time. The other side will be done asap. Then the rear wheelarches Not forgetting the shock swaps too. I'm quite pleased with the result to be honest. I used up nearly 250ml of red oxide just on the one arch

Good luck with the 1500 this week Nath. Hope the weather holds out for you

Cheers

Ken

[MalcGE]

Some White 'Re-paint' (not sure who makes it these days, was Parsons at one time, still available from Halfrauds when I last looked). Mix in a bit of Ford 'Sharaha Beige' or similar to get you a close match. Re-paint is a sort of one pack enamel, very similar to 'nacker lacquer' as we used to call it. The re-paint is designed for brush painting the exterior of cars and whilst (IMHO) is naff for that it is great under the arches. If you really want to go to town, once the re-pain has dried, brush will Waxoyl.

I did the rear areches on XAA with Re-paint, some 5 years later, although they are covered in muck and tar spots, the paint is still good. A quick rub down and another coat is all that would be needed to get em back to blingin

[Purplebargeken]

Cheers Malc. I'll have a look tomorrow.

Ken

[Purplebargeken]

Had a look at the local Halfrauds and was met with blank stares and no re-paint on the shelves

Not to worry. Have just coated the red oxide with some acrylic car paint, just for a bit more protection. Will paint the panel with paintable anti-stone chip tomorrow and top coat it with something close to body colour. Will also try and get some piccies. Final painting Thursday maybe. Then back on with the replacement shock. Then t'other side to do At least the other side looks equally as solid.

Ken

[MalcGE]

The cynical side of me would say "your not supposed to ask for the stuff" as most staff not likely to have been around long enough to remember it.

But the way in which the 'car repair' amrket is changing 0 modern motors just don't need the p38 after a few years, most body repair products are fast disapearing.

Hammerite smooth is very similar, Hammerite white with a bit of Hammerite Brown or yellow might get you a good match and is goos under the arches etc

Got a feeling it may have been renamed Jenolite Re-paint

[newguy]

This maybe a little off topic, But why do all of these English cars over there have so much rust.
Like why don't you guys stop it when it first starts to occur?

I thought it would be the best way is to not let it get away on you etc.

Please Shed some light on this a little?

I know on cars over here (though we Don't have the Salt like you guys) That when rust starts
it is jumped on straight away to stop it from spreading at all.

In my and my dads sprint we use compressed air to blow the dust and dirt out of around the headlamps and eyelids etc.
As this is what causes the rust over here is dirt build up with moisture.


Sorry to Go so off topic.

Car looks like she is going to be fairly bullet Proof once you have finished with it.

[Nathan Mwk 627G]

Like why don't you guys stop it when it first starts to occur?

I thought it would be the best way is to not let it get away on you etc.

Please Shed some light on this a little?

One reason is that they started to rust at least 1 year after production, Iv got a 1300fwd, the car was released in 1965, they were producing repair panels for the wings in 1966 as they were rotting out!! and beleive it or not they never changed the design untill the very end when some appeared with slash gaurds!!

The other reason is, for me anyway, I didnt buy my car till it was 37 years old, the 1500fwd (see other thread) we didn't buy itll it was 35 years old, so i wouldn't of been able to stop the rust when it started as i wasn't born till 1983

Nathan

[Purplebargeken]

Fair comment in all honesty. Not every one has access to covered work spaces, off street car parking or garages. I'm lucky that I can rent a garage from the local council. Sadly, the garages themselves aren't foolproof. Often no power = no lighting or heating (unless you have a genny). Roof leaks are common and the councils are slow to respond. More rain.... absolutely. Salt.... oh yes. All seems to add up to less willingness/time/ability/awareness/confidence to tackle things before they get to a certain point. Maybe people aren't as bothered about looking after their cars, we live in a throw away society after all. This isn't something new and the great god 'consumerism' is behind this, especially in the 70's and 80's, etc.

Thank goodness for the folk in this club and other clubs who are willing and able to do something about the rustbuckets of this world. The advice, support/encouargement and help available here is invaluable. My own cars problems are fairly minimal, mostly down to sheer luck in having had a caring owner from new and living in a garage for it's whole life and my increased confidence in how to tackle the current problems before they become terminal. Some cars suffer a great deal worse, Von's car, my old 1300fwd, my old Toledo. Some of this is down to sheer laziness and bodges over the years from owner and so-called professionals alike, some of it due to sheer stupidity. All I can say is that the cars here are cherished now and things are changing. Sadly, too late for some cars.... Gigi included

Anyway, piccies of progress tomorrow hopefully.

Ken

[newguy]

Fair Points guys, Man it makes me sad seeing all this rust on this beautiful cars aye.
Really hurts.......

[melj]

This maybe a little off topic, But why do all of these English cars over there have so much rust.
Like why don't you guys stop it when it first starts to occur?

Ahem, BRITISH cars, we're not all English!

For me, my car was a total rustbucket when I bought it, I just hadn't a clue it was as bad as it was already, and it had a darn good hold! And apparently had even been garaged (not any more unfortunately). My lack of experience meant she deteriorated further and I now am in the same situation as Nathan - but she will get fixed!

I know it's a horrible cliche, but man, does it rain here, and there's nothing I can do about that! We've had about three dry days since christmas, which is thoroughly depressing. But I am a total believer in that cars, no matter how old, are meant for driving and enjoying, so yes, I'm afraid I do let her get rusty and then deal with it when the weather allows (not always successfully or beautifully but hopefully that will get better as skills develop). My car will never win any medals though....

Swap you, you come and live here, gimme the sunshine!