Fire proof partition.

[Neil907]

How have people gome about sealing all the holes between the boot and the passenger compartment to create a fire proof partition to msa or similar spec.
Cheers Neil.

[Sprint36]

The normal way is to rivet an aluminium sheet up the bulkhead and over the rear shelf. The edges should be sealed with fireproof sealant.

David

[Neil907]

What about the the gaps between the inner and outer wings that then goes up to the roof and such?

[Sprint36]

Hang on, just going to the garage...

David

[Sprint36]

...hmm, I see what you mean now, and I don't know the answer. The reinforcing sections in the boots and c pillar both have a big hole which you can put a plate over, but they will still have a gap around them. Let me know what you do, cos I don't know.

David

[Neil907]

Came up with a solution to this one today although is probably not praticle in most cases.
I am replacing the outer section of the inner wheel arches which I noticed gives you easy access to this void so I knocked up a plate a stiched it in a couple of places and sealed it in with fire proof sealent at about the same height as the parcel shelf. Will just have to cover up the two openings below this level into the car now.

[gmsclassics]

I don't believe you will completely seal off the passenger compartment completly and even if you do the distortion of the bodyshell in an race accident will immediately undo that I suspect.

I have seen an issue with a car that rolled, ripped off the filler cap and then as it sat upside down on the track emptied its fuel tank rapidly so the car was left sitting in a big puddle of fuel. Best to make sure the filler cap is inside the boot, but there will be specific regulations around how you do that.

From practical experience of an engine fire in a Dolly (that will usually start in the area of the fuel pump, ignition, coil carbs etc) fire will destroy all of the rubber grommets supposedly sealing around all the cables and wires that pass through at an extremely rapid rate. It can be disconcerting to see flames licking around your left foot I can tell you. I don't have an answer to this one. Would be interested to hear what anyone has done about it on their car.

The good news is that you can stop and reasonable big fire with one of those 1kg powder extinguishers. I now carry one in EVERY car I own, including when on the road.

Geoff

[Dolly racer 33]

Use 2 part foam. Available at any builders merchant in an aerosol but be careful you could end up with a lot of mess. Seal up as much as you can with aluminium sheet first. then seal up the boot area with tape & inject from the top. Try to cover all of your interior painted surfaces first because it is a b---h to clean off afterwards.

Regards,
Ken.

[Nick C]

The good news is that you can stop and reasonable big fire with one of those 1kg powder extinguishers. I now carry one in EVERY car I own, including when on the road.

The problem there is that the MSA rules require AFFF extinguishers, despite the fact that most people regard them as utterly useless

Powder extinguishers are much more useful in non-MSA situations though.

[SPRINTPARTS]

I am just in the process of preparing another "race" bodyshell. I have sealed the rear seat area and parcel tray(?) with sheet aluminium. The small holes on the side normally covered by the seat back are also sealed the same way along with the holes (which are normally covered by the headling) in the "C" pillar area.

It is all dependant on the scrutineers, but I believe that this is all that is required. The area between the the inner and outer panels of the "C" panel are sealed at the top by the roof skin frame. There are a few small holes which some form of sealant can be used to plug. Expanding foam may work as a liquid barrier, but I would be surprised that it would be very successfully as a fire barrier. I know of several racing Dolomites which still have the hoodling fitted that have never had the holes behind the hoodling (C panel) area sealed because know ones that they are there.

The best form of protection from fire is your race suit and a quick exit from the car. We also have to carry Dry Powder extinguishers, which do put the fire out but make a lot of mess in doing so plus being very corrosive to aluminium. The best form of extinguisher to use (but we can't own) is BCF, very good at putting the fire out and no residue to clean up or damage. Unfortunately due to some minor problem with holes in the ozone layer the are illegel to own, mind you ALL commerical passenger aircraft still carry BCF extinguisher to use in cabin fires!!

Mark

[Dolly racer 33]

It is not a firewal per se. It is to retard the fluid & vapours that would enter the cabin area & give the driver time to alight from the vehicle.

My car has been checked many times by scrutineers. They push a steel ruler up the C post to the roof & down to the floor from the boot area. If it is sealed with foam they are happy. If they have access with a ruler then so do the fluids & vapours.

Ken.

[xvivalve]

Not all expanding building foams are fire resisting, but there are specific fire tested ones available. Be sure to read the label to get the right one or check the price...comparatively very expensive! You can get up to an hours fire resistance with them, which compared to aluminium burning at 660º is a consideration; remember the Sir Galahad?.

Of course, one would hope you aren't still in the car either after an hour or by the time it gets to 660º

A foam for which petrol isn't a solvent would be useful, but most of them probably are!