Re: Jag V6 swapped Dolomite
Posted: Wed May 31, 2023 11:48 am
Are you anticipating any conflict between the heat from the exhaust and the cooling system, or are you planning an alternative location for the radiator?
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Firstly, kind of. I put a plate in and just secured it with one or two welds so it’s not like a precise slow baffle but should be enough, the oil level is quite high so I don’t envision having many issues but if I do I can pull it off and add more weld.jackharper wrote: ↑Wed May 31, 2023 8:34 am Looks great! Is the sump baffled at all? Did you have to move the oil pickup?
I’m running a front mount radiator so I don’t have to do much engineering or rear rad set up, I’m not a fan of them but I understand their necessity. I’m expecting a small amount of heat buildup but mainly because I don’t want to run any bonnet vents. I was also going to fit a skid plate as a way if both protecting the sump and to strengthen the subframe, but this limits the amount of air I can evacuate from the engine bay as this is where most of the air goes from the stock triumph. If I can get away with it, I might try and run some ducting out through the wheel wells via the holes in the subframe near the steering rack.
How are you doing this? with another microcontroller hooked up to a motor or something? btw, are you still using a speeduino for management?I’ve also been messing around with the speedometer and made an electrical conversion so it can take the VR sensor from the gearbox and calculate speed and display it on the original Smiths dial. The odometer needs some more work to it but that’s not as critical just yet.
I’m using a SpeedHut Speed Box.jackharper wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2023 9:39 pm Sounds good progress.
How are you doing this? with another microcontroller hooked up to a motor or something? btw, are you still using a speeduino for management?I’ve also been messing around with the speedometer and made an electrical conversion so it can take the VR sensor from the gearbox and calculate speed and display it on the original Smiths dial. The odometer needs some more work to it but that’s not as critical just yet.
I used another arduino and built an enclosure and gearbox onto the back of the speedo unit to use a servo to move the speedometer needle. A mildly better idea would be to use a regular motor and drive the speedometer and odometer (basically replacing the speedo cable) but I was thick and didn’t do that.jackharper wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2023 9:39 pm Sounds good progress.
How are you doing this? with another microcontroller hooked up to a motor or something? btw, are you still using a speeduino for management?I’ve also been messing around with the speedometer and made an electrical conversion so it can take the VR sensor from the gearbox and calculate speed and display it on the original Smiths dial. The odometer needs some more work to it but that’s not as critical just yet.
That’s what I’ve done with the sill, basically gut everything but leave in a reference point or two and build out from there. Once you get enough done, I just removed the reference point that was rottennew to this wrote: ↑Sat Dec 23, 2023 1:50 pm Ive been setting targets on mine as well![]()
inner rear arches so i can then do the outer arch
When i did my rear brakes, i used the same hand brake cable as the calipers, then mounted the cable to the hand brake leaver
Dave
If you look for Focus ST hand brake cable it will be easier to find, there the sameBoost All The Dollys wrote: ↑Sun Dec 24, 2023 10:12 amThat’s what I’ve done with the sill, basically gut everything but leave in a reference point or two and build out from there. Once you get enough done, I just removed the reference point that was rottennew to this wrote: ↑Sat Dec 23, 2023 1:50 pm Ive been setting targets on mine as well![]()
inner rear arches so i can then do the outer arch
When i did my rear brakes, i used the same hand brake cable as the calipers, then mounted the cable to the hand brake leaver
Dave
I would do that but for some reason Ford or any other parts garage don’t sell the handbrake cable for the car I got the calipers off. The rear calipers are 2018+ Fiesta ST, I think the only one with rear disc brakesEither it’s not been released yet or it will never exist, I’m unsure. Also, have a strange two part cable from what I can tell. One cable that runs from the handbrake lever to **almost** the caliper that’s common across several models, and then there’s a short connector cable. I’ve managed to get the connector cable for the lower spec Fiesta that does kind of work but the spacing between the end of the wire and the bit that pushes against the caliper is too big. And I can’t connect the Dolomite cable to the Fiesta one as I’d need to make a mount and guide for it to stop it from flexing instead of pulling taut.
But I’ll work it out…eventually
Chin up, just remember your looking at a saving something around £5,000 in labour costs by doing the welding work yourself...Boost All The Dollys wrote:I’ve made good progress so far on the repair; repaired most of the lower inner sill, significantly strengthened the rear jacking point with some 2mm plate, and made a repair panel for the reinforcer. This has been at least 40 hours so far and it’ll probably take another 40 to finish.