i've just got one

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1300dolly · #16 Post by **1300dolly** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:27 pm

nice looking car ,that windscreen should be ok but i would change it anyhow.
sandglow it is and correctly registered as brown.
ring around a few local recovery companys. you would not be insured for towing the car on a rope as its not road legal and making the person in the towed car incharge of an unlicensed,uninsured vehcile.which carrys the same penaltys as if he was driving it.

#17 Post by **Mad Mart** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 9:02 pm

£200

must be worth at least £500 if not more.

DavePoth · #18 Post by **DavePoth** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 9:14 pm

I know it's a bit dodgy to assume, but if the rest of the grot spots are in as good condition as that corner of the windscreen and the rear panel, you have got an extreme bargain.

andyk · #19 Post by **andyk** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 9:24 pm

had a good look even the boot floor is sound

DavePoth · #20 Post by **DavePoth** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 9:27 pm

Get an MOT on it and if it really is that sound it's a £2k car IMO.

Sprintinbits · #21 Post by **Sprintinbits** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 10:53 pm

Well jealous as well though

Well done!

andyk · #22 Post by **andyk** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 12:35 pm

just got an exhaust from fleabay standard system in stainless 3 years old £150 almost what i paid for the car, are all the bit so costly?
andy

Sprintinbits · #23 Post by **Sprintinbits** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 6:48 pm

Yeah Andy, all parts are well expensive

I would sell it on quick

to me!
I'd pay you the £350 then wonder how to get it darn sarf

Seriously though, it looks real good and probably wont need many parts.

Ask the guys who actually own a car (not me yet) for the bits you need and they will point you in the right direction. You will find they are cheaper than you think.

Think of it this way £150 for a stainless exhaust which will last how long? 20+ years? I don't know

How much for a modern car in normal mild steel (with cat)? £500 new? How long will that last?

Makes sense now

Reg · #24 Post by **Reg** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 7:42 pm

Sounds a good price to me..they are £328 new.The standard exhaust is a good choice,but you will need to drop the rear axle on the passenger side to get the old one off and the new one on! Sounds worse than it is,jack car up take off rear passenger wheel,take out two bolts..First bolt is where the rear arm meets the body,second bolt goes through the bottom of the shocker..let the axle hang down gently..then you will have enough room to install the new exhaust...sorted,as they say darn sarf..one hour max.

xvivalve · #25 Post by **xvivalve** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:01 pm

but you will need to drop the rear axle on the passenger side to get the old one off and the new one on

No you won't; jack up car and support on axle stands such that once the jack is released the rear suspension travels to its point of greatest extension. Once the clamp is undone and pipes separated (or cut through!) the tail pipes can be extracted from the NS wheel arch (wheel removed) by rotating them as they are drawn backwards toward the rear 3/4. Reassembly is the reverse of assembly

Reg · #26 Post by **Reg** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:24 pm

Ok,i stand corrected...even easier then!

andyk · #27 Post by **andyk** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 9:28 pm

thanks for all the info, looks like i have found the right place,
this week end i am off to make sure it will move so i can get it on the back of a truck to get it home, its not moved for over 6 years.
here the plan
air in the tyres they are not flat but i wont hurt to put some in,
new battery
take the plugs out and dissy cap off
turn it over for a bit to move the oil around
try truning it over in gear with a foot on the clutch to see if that clutch is free
plugs back in dissy cap back on
put fresh petrol in the tank
then try and start her (you have to try) it may work
have i missed anything
thanks
andy
hope to see some of you at stoneleigh

DavePoth · #28 Post by **DavePoth** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:19 pm

If you are going to put fresh petrol in the tank, it's probably worth draining what's in there. It's easy enough to do underneath the car (there's a short rubber section of hose just as the pipe exits the fuel tank, attached with jubilee clips.

Don't forget to check the oil level before you crank her, and don't drive anywhere too far before changing the oil.

Easiest (and least violent) way to check if the clutch is stuck is to get someone small to sit in the car, with the gearbox in first and the clutch pedal pressed down. If you can push the car the clutch is free, if not it's stuck.

Best of luck.

Jon Tilson · #29 Post by **Jon Tilson** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 12:16 am

The clutch will be stuck. Mine sticks after a few weeks, but always frees off with the engine warm and starting it clutch down in 1st gear and brakes on.

You will also like as not have a fuel system leak, either from a rusted out tank or fuel pipe section. Best get fresh fuel into the float chambers, either by removing the tops or gravity feed. In fact its a good idea to clean out the old crud and sediment in the float chambers so it doesnt get sucked into your jets and block them. With a bit of skill the float chambers come off without removing carbs.

Best to trailer it home and do a bit of due dilligence b4 starting it up. I used to dive in but having blocked up some jets and had some seizures of brakes that seemed okay until a hard stop I'm now a bit more cautious.

Jonners

Lee Flintoft · #30 Post by **Lee Flintoft** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 6:24 am

Put it in 4th and rock bacwards and forwards to open the points and give them a good clean.

The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

i've just got one

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