The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Galileo,
Thank you once again for explaining it all so patiently and clearly. Your help and expertise is much appreciated

davbat wrote:Can anyone with Lucas 6RA relays fitted, tell me what ones they have fitted?

I will be at Stoneleigh on the 21st Feb, so hopefully will find a 'correct' pair at perhaps a more reasonable price than those listed above...

Thanks in advance,

Dave

Dave, if you prefer to have Lucas 6RA as they are of the correct period,
I can let you have two from my car (they are currently fitted for trailer electrics), please PM.......




Ian.

Hi All,
I just want to say a big thank you to you all for your thoughts & contributions to this thread.

I can honestly say, I feel a little more knowledgeable of the subject of relays.

I am not going to rush in madly with any changes just yet, I will however be covertly checking out how other Dolly owners have fitted theirs during the summer months, so if you see balding man acting suspiciously whilst your bonnet is open it could be me...

Regards to all,

Dave

One relay for dipped and another relay for main beam is fine.
(If you have uprated mains you can fit two relays, one for each side.)


The Lucas 6RA makes an expensive sound when it is switched, reminding me of the shutter being fired on an Olympus OM-1 camera.





Ian.

sprint95m wrote:One relay for dipped and another relay for main beam is fine.
(If you have uprated mains you can fit two relays, one for each side.)Ian.....

Whereabouts in the circuit should the relays go, which wires should be intersected?

No right or wrong answer here.
However, I mounted my relays and fuses by the battery. Picked up the wiring from the OS headlight connectors under the front wing, ie the bullets. That provided me with a trigger and I cold connect direct to the OS headlight. The loom that came with my relays was then used to run fresh wiring over to the NS headlight connectors.

If a "hidden" solution is required, I would go under the dash, cut into the existing loom and put the relays and connections there. That would only require a good fresh (fused) power supply to the relay direct from the battery and an earth. The existing look will be fine with the current, you just want to take the load off the switchgear.

Hi Clive, I don't mind where the relays go, I was more concerned with which wire to cut into...for the headlights is it the blue and white one in the engine bay?

blue/white is main beam, and if memory serves me correctly, blue/red dipped beam. Each will (ideally) need a relay, dipped more important as it is on longer.

shaunroche wrote:Hi Clive, I don't mind where the relays go, I was more concerned with which wire to cut into...for the headlights is it the blue and white one in the engine bay?

Then don't cut any. There's a loom plug near the front on each side of the car, make a new loom that plugs in foreward of that.

.... here's one I did earlier.
With a couple of typos corrected.

Great! Even I could understand that.

I used these relays from Halfords which simplifies things a bit with a built-in fuse.

I situated my relays next to the battery where I could break into the loom along the offside inner wing. This helped keep the cable runs as short as possible.

This is just what I needed as I'm in the process of "halogen-ing" my 1500, good basic instructions!

At last!

As ever, cheers chaps!

MIG Wielder wrote:.... here's one I did earlier.

Dolomite headlamp relay 1.JPG

Dolomite headlamp relay 2.JPG

There is a typo in that list. You're making two connections to terminal 30 and none to 85.