The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

They should call it stealth'ish,

soe8m wrote: A few years ago I did make some adapters to fit a std 123 tune in a slant but no more left. The option is to buy a ready to fit modified one or buy a 123 and make it fit your own dizzy what I am doing right now in various cars. Still the original look and cap but modern electronics.

You could make a living out of modifying distributers and/or selling adapters Jeroen

I have one of Jeroen's 123 distributor to slant four adapters here.

Further to fitting it,
you will need to use your Sprint's distributor drive gear (which needs to be drilled to accept the 123 roll pin).
If using an 1850 drive gear it is necessary to get a bush made to allow fitment to the 123's shaft, I don't know
if that is the case with a Sprint's drive gear?




Maheesh, if you wish to purchase the adapter please PM me.
Price is £20 including delivery.



thanks,


Ian.

Is the distributor drive gear part number 519595, as per the rimmers site, or are there better nos or machined ones available.

Don't fancy using the one in the car, and yes, going to give it a go. Failure or success, can't have that nagging feeling of I didn't even try.

Any help/suggestions greatly appreciated, I will put as much info as I accumulate into this thread, so as it's easy to find for anyone who needs to reference.

Oooo!

I'm such a sucker for well engineered shiny things!

Progress is slow at the moment, but progress nonetheless,
As far as I know there should not be anything else needed, other than grease,
elbow grease, grey matter, technical info, and lots of help.

Mahesh wrote:Progress is slow at the moment, but progress nonetheless,
...

As far as I know there should not be anything else needed, other than grease,
elbow grease, grey matter, technical info, and lots of help.

Yep, looks like you've done the easy bit

Forgot to mention,

Big thanks to Ian (Sprint95M) for the adaptor plate.

Nice adapter you have there.

Heat it up with a heater gun and the 123 should slide in with no effort. Make sure you do not have the o-rings fitted. These adapters were made a piece and i know that some were slightly narrower than others.

When the adapter is hot just slide and do not use any hammers etc. If it does not fit you can try again by having the 123 housing very cool/freezing. In one case i had so sand slightly the 123 but do not sand the adapter. The size of fitting and not fitting is a few hundreds of mm so be carefull with sanding. Once the adapter is on the 123 it is very hard to get it off again. Make sure it does fit. Trying to heat to take it off again does also heat the 123 housing.

Try fit the 123 first with the drive gear attached and have it at the tdc. Make sure the rotor does point to the correct contact in the cap and the led of the 123 is just on. It is in the 123 manual how to set the static timing. Then mark on the 123 housing the two fixing holes of the engineblock. Then you know how to put the adapter and where the slots must be.

When is is not correct it can be that you can never adjust the 123 at tdc because the orientation of the distributor is wrong with the slots. I did made two studs in the engine because it is impossible to have bolts through the adapter once fitted.

Good luck.

Jeroen

When all goes ok you should end up like this:

I would love to get my hands on one of those adapters for the Spitfire distributor.

Any offers out there?

Been a while since I got back to this,

The main hold up is the distributor drive gear, I have a spare, but when brought up to the
123 dizzy, there is a lot of movement, the roll pin may hold it in place ( [-o< )

So this afternoon, I found a aluminium spacer, and got some stupid ideas going, here goes,

First of all, the spacer was too large to fit in the drive gear, so I mounted it onto a drill and filed the
sides down.

After a lot of filing, it nearly fitted, (one side) so I used freezer spray on the spacer
and that worked a treat, and held fast once back to normal temp.

Then the 123 shaft was too large for the centre, so I viced up the drive gear and
drilled halfway through the centre.

The freezer job was well worth it, as the spacer did not spin in the drive gear (well
not much).

Now the drive gear needs the roll pin holes enlargened up to 4mm to take the 123 roll
pin.

Will a Bosch HSS drill bit work ?, No chance, only a few scratches on the drive gear.

Have ordered a 3.5mm and 4mm cobalt drill bit. (bosch and heller).

And that's it for now.

The worst part is yet to come, when I take the 44d4 out, which is working almost
perfectly at the moment.

The question that is bugging me at the moment is, should I remove the bush and get one
made in steel, or leave the aluminium one in ?