The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/
Now that is nice, beats my method of hammer, screwdriver and much swearing.Richard the old one wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 10:02 pm When I was an apprentice I made the bearing extractor shown in the photograph and I have used it for both removing the rear axle pinion seals and as shown in the photo O/D rear seals.
Oh, what a good idea. I was able to use a Draper 13908 3 legged puller to get my seal out very easily. Hooray, saved me lots of messing around tomorrow. Cheers!Richard the old one wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 10:02 pm When I was an apprentice I made the bearing extractor shown in the photograph and I have used it for both removing the rear axle pinion seals and as shown in the photo O/D rear seals.
Wise words Steve thanks. I am indeed going to give it a go as it is. But if it turns out to be noisy it won’t be driven and I’ll re-assess my options.Carledo wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 9:57 pm Since the preload is supposed to be set to the value given WITHOUT the crownwheel and diff in place, you can only guess at a sensible preload anyway. The pinion shaft bearings are taper rollers, wear in these is what causes loss of apparent preload and, I suspect, that this is what is responsible for your pinion flange nut appearing to be loose. You can reset a preload into it, but if the rearmost pinion shaft bearing is worn (which no visual inspection short of total dismantling will show) the crown wheel to pinion mesh will not be correct and may result in noise.
I'm certain that the front bearing race can be removed through the pinion flange hole (once the seal is out) as that is how it is fitted on initial build, but it may be WELL stuck on the shaft and difficult to dislodge. I'd be inclined to try refitting the flange and tapping it sideways to dislodge the race.
The ONLY way to be sure is to replace the 4 main critical bearings and re-set up the diff as per factory. But there's nothing lost by giving it a go as it is, either it's quiet and you've got away with it and saved a wedge of dosh, or it's noisy and will need a rebuild (or another axle) which it almost certainly did before you started! Just, if it IS loud, don't drive it long like that or you WILL write off the CWP too!
Steve
Well done Chris, good work.2door-toledo wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 10:57 pmOh, what a good idea. I was able to use a Draper 13908 3 legged puller to get mine out very easily. Hooray, saved me lots of messing around tomorrow. Cheers!Richard the old one wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 10:02 pm When I was an apprentice I made the bearing extractor shown in the photograph and I have used it for both removing the rear axle pinion seals and as shown in the photo O/D rear seals.
They kind of work but not very well. I have got one, the thing to be careful of is the tool letting go when you are really going for it. I almost stab myself in my own leg.Richard the old one wrote: ↑Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:50 am Another way of removing the oil seal is by using a seal puller tool such as sold by Sealey.co.uk model no AK7000 or model VS8000. I have not used either but I am assuming they work and I also assume there will be similar items available that are made by other manufacturers.