The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

GrahamFountain wrote: ↑Sat Nov 23, 2019 8:54 pm I had one of the ones that break that broke while I was driving. So I've now got one of the forged group 2 escort ones in my Sprint. I also replaced the underwear.

Graham

Richard the old one wrote: ↑Tue Feb 16, 2021 2:57 pm An interesting point when I spoke to Chris Witor he asked me which design of coupling I was proposing to refurbish as there were two different build standards for the couplings that basically look the same. He advised me that the easiest way to spot the difference before the item is stripped is to measure the thickness of the central disc. The slightly thicker disc is ¼ inch against the thinner which is only 3/16 thick. The picture also shows that the two disc are drilled differently and take different shaped bushes. See the photograph of Lowe steering coupling bits below

The SuperFlex repair kit SPF1179 is for the thicker disc design and the part number of the bolts that are drilled so that they can be wire locked are 108976

MIG Wielder wrote: ↑Tue Feb 16, 2021 1:46 pm

GrahamFountain wrote: ↑Sat Nov 23, 2019 8:54 pm I had one of the ones that break that broke while I was driving. So I've now got one of the forged group 2 escort ones in my Sprint. I also replaced the underwear.

Graham

Hi Graham, Which version was it that broke up on you please ? And where was the failure point. Was it all 4 shoulder bolts or the casting ? Have you got a photo of the failed unit please ?

Thanks,
Tony.

GrahamFountain wrote: ↑Wed Feb 17, 2021 11:04 pm Interestingly, this website says you do need the earthing wire with the pressed UJs for the horn to work on a Herald:https://www.classiccarparts.co.nz/index ... ct_id=1092.

But I didn't fit on our Herald and the horn works fine (when the button in the wheel works).

Graham

mahony wrote: ↑Thu Feb 18, 2021 9:04 am If you look at Richards post you can see the holes in the bolts that secure the Knuckle together , in the parts catalogue the exploded view shows locking wire through all the holes in the bolts just in case they work loose ( i am sure split pins would also do )

geeksteve wrote: ↑Thu Feb 18, 2021 10:00 am

GrahamFountain wrote: ↑Wed Feb 17, 2021 11:04 pm Interestingly, this website says you do need the earthing wire with the pressed UJs for the horn to work on a Herald:https://www.classiccarparts.co.nz/index ... ct_id=1092.

But I didn't fit on our Herald and the horn works fine (when the button in the wheel works).

Graham

Not a problem on the Dolly, the bulkhead bush has inevitably split so providing a nice ground in the footwell

Richard the old one wrote: ↑Tue Feb 16, 2021 2:57 pm An interesting point when I spoke to Chris Witor he asked me which design of coupling I was proposing to refurbish as there were two different build standards for the couplings that basically look the same. He advised me that the easiest way to spot the difference before the item is stripped is to measure the thickness of the central disc. The slightly thicker disc is ¼ inch against the thinner which is only 3/16 thick. The picture also shows that the two disc are drilled differently and take different shaped bushes. See the photograph of Lowe steering coupling bits below

The SuperFlex repair kit SPF1179 is for the thicker disc design and the part number of the bolts that are drilled so that they can be wire locked are 108976

James R wrote: ↑Thu Feb 18, 2021 11:21 am

Richard the old one wrote: ↑Tue Feb 16, 2021 2:57 pm An interesting point when I spoke to Chris Witor he asked me which design of coupling I was proposing to refurbish as there were two different build standards for the couplings that basically look the same. He advised me that the easiest way to spot the difference before the item is stripped is to measure the thickness of the central disc. The slightly thicker disc is ¼ inch against the thinner which is only 3/16 thick. The picture also shows that the two disc are drilled differently and take different shaped bushes. See the photograph of Lowe steering coupling bits below

The SuperFlex repair kit SPF1179 is for the thicker disc design and the part number of the bolts that are drilled so that they can be wire locked are 108976

Thanks to everyone who has commented and provided me with very helpful advice.

Looking at the picture from Richard it seems apparent that the wired type of knuckle has the thicker 1/4 centre disc which is also referred to as the Top Hat style. In speaking to Chris today he only has the poly bushes for this style. The knuckle with the peened/crimped bolts within them (which is what I have currently on my knuckle) has a slightly smaller centre disc at 3/16 (?) and is referred to as a Conical disc option.

Initially I hadn't looked closely at the picture Richard sent but you can see it clearly once you know what you are looking at..

So with my knuckle it appears that the CW kit doesn't ideally fit, although it does look like someone may have used incorrect rubbers on the one I have.... So I am going to strip mine down and just double check the centre disc option that I have to be 100% certain and go from there, as it seems possible to cross contaminate the components ... I am in the process of sourcing some new bolts (108976) with a few feelers out that look very promising, so I am just waiting for 100% clarification that they are what they should be. If they are I will be ordering them and then looking at rebuild options..

Thanks again to all. Will let you know how it goes..