The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

yorkshire_spam wrote: ↑Tue Jun 23, 2020 12:54 pm

GrahamFountain wrote: ↑Tue Jun 23, 2020 12:46 pm The question I have about the Canley hub pulling tool vs the Churchill one, is how you stop the tool and hub turning as you turn the screw? Is the handbrake good enough?
The copy I have, like the Churchill one, has flats for a v. large open ender, plus mine has a web with a hole in a bar should fit through and bare on the ground.

Graham

'kin enormous stilsons around the puller, or if you are a mental case and tighten the forcing bolt up with an air gun (what sort of idiot would do that?) , very very thick gloves and hold onto it! (Don't try this at home!)

I agree on the stilsons though I have my doubts one would hold on the Canley type of puller:


Honkin' girt breaker bar helps too.

GIX 7 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 23, 2020 12:27 pm I tried that with a spare shaft Steve, but I am terrified of damaging the shaft with the grinder. I ground through the inner race as much as I dared, but no joy with the chisel. I can put the puller up on the Forum if any Irish owners need to borrow it. (still have to get it yet)

A lot of practice helps! 50 years in the business and I know what I can get away with! If you are VERY careful, you can get away without a mark, but if you DO happen to kiss the shaft with the grinder, it doesn't make the shaft scrap, you'd have to cut halfway through it to weaken it, no-one is THAT bad! So you've marked the shaft in one small spot? Just put it back together, no-one but you will ever know!

Steve

tinweevil wrote: ↑Tue Jun 23, 2020 6:31 pm

Just out of interest, did that one, which I seen sold as for the Herald/Vitesse/Spitfire, need modifying to fit the Sprint?

Graham

I have that one and had to mill the centre out to fit a Sprint hub.

Mine is unmodified and attached to a 1500 axle in the photo.
Where did you get yours James? I have a feeling mine was from the TSSC.

Mine was the eBay one Julian.

Richard the old one wrote: ↑Tue Jun 23, 2020 2:14 pm It did take me some time to work out how to stop it turning but see attached photo it worked for me.

What about the side force this puts on the wheel stud?

I'm interested because I've a related problem of how to stop the front hubs on the Herald turning as I do and undo the nuts holding the wire wheel hub adaptors.

Graham

GrahamFountain wrote: ↑Thu Jun 25, 2020 12:25 pm

Richard the old one wrote: ↑Tue Jun 23, 2020 2:14 pm It did take me some time to work out how to stop it turning but see attached photo it worked for me.

What about the side force this puts on the wheel stud?

I'm interested because I've a related problem of how to stop the front hubs on the Herald turning as I do and undo the nuts holding the wire wheel hub adaptors.

Graham

Agreed on the possibility of stud damage from the crowbar technique, though I do use it often on moderns which mostly have (relaceable) bolts rather than studs, it's pretty suicidal to do it on 3/8" studs! Find another way is my advice!

2 choices again! (I don't think the phone camera will help here) 1) get SWMBO to stomp on the brakes while you do it 2)Yes it's BFMI, but this sort of thing is where a "windy" gun (or it's battery/electric equivalent) REALLY comes in useful! I've found from experimenting that an average windy gun at full chat, tightens to 160 lb/ft but most have 5 or so levels of output below that so you CAN get more like the right tightening torque rather than just snapping the studs!

I too have run wires on Heralds and Spitfires and these nuts DO seem to have a propensity for coming undone over time! It's just ONE of the prices you pay for the "OoooH, PRETTY!" effect that wires have on an audience! Some of the others include (but not limited to) spline wear, constantly going out of balance, nut damage from not having the right hammer in the boot when you get a flat, et boring cetera!

Steve

Carledo wrote: ↑Thu Jun 25, 2020 1:32 pm 1) get SWMBO to stomp on the brakes while you do it 2)Yes it's BFMI, but this sort of thing is where a "windy" gun (or it's battery/electric equivalent) REALLY comes in useful! I've found from experimenting that an average windy gun at full chat, tightens to 160 lb/ft but most have 5 or so levels of output below that so you CAN get more like the right tightening torque rather than just snapping the studs!

1) The method used yesterday.
2) One of the problems with the hub adapters for the Dunlop 466 wheels that I have is that even a slimline 11/16ths AF socket don't fit the nuts, nor does a 17mm AF socket fit 17mm x 3/8ths UNF b'stard sized nuts. So it's an open-ender and reasonable (ha!) force of arms only.

If I had a lathe, I just might be able to turn an 11/16ths slimline down further enough, it's the last 12mm or so that needs it. But I ain't doing that with an angle grinder like I did to make a 7/16 socket fit the dizzy screws. The other options I've been thinking of, but it ain't cheap, is to get 16 of them 60 degree taper crimped thread, very tight fit nuts (I'm sure there's a makers/inventors name for them, but I can't remember it), and run a tap down to correct for at least some of the crimping. They come in 9/16th AF 3/8 UNF format, and a 9/16ths socket will fit. The other option is to get 9/16ths or 5/8ths AF x 3/8 UNF nuts and increase the taper on them a bit. But, again, it ain't a cheap one. I have a suspicion that nylock nuts put on back to front might work, but I don't have the guts to try it. Maybe if it was one of them it's this or walk, and like one per wheel situations.

Carledo wrote: ↑Thu Jun 25, 2020 1:32 pm I too have run wires on Heralds and Spitfires and these nuts DO seem to have a propensity for coming undone over time! It's just ONE of the prices you pay for the "OoooH, PRETTY!" effect that wires have on an audience! Some of the others include (but not limited to) spline wear, constantly going out of balance, nut damage from not having the right hammer in the boot when you get a flat, et boring cetera!

Steve

Oh they do look so good, even in silver hammerite. And at least I got a set of octagonal nuts and a couple of the ring spanner tools - so it's the spanner that takes the damage. BTW, there're the good octagonal nuts without the offensive letters on them.

Graham

GrahamFountain wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 8:13 pm I see there's a proper churchill one on auction on eBay with 6 days to run.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153976007644
£75 with 2 bids. Plus £12 p&p.
Graham

I'll give everyone fair warning, I'm going for that!!

Carledo wrote: ↑Thu Jun 25, 2020 1:32 pm Find another way is my advice!

In conjunction with the puller, I would use a suitably long length of angle iron, located on two studs, as a lever against the ground.



Ian.

sprint95m wrote: ↑Thu Jun 25, 2020 8:26 pm

Carledo wrote: ↑Thu Jun 25, 2020 1:32 pm Find another way is my advice!

In conjunction with the puller, I would use a suitably long length of angle iron, located on two studs, as a lever against the ground.



Ian.

Spreading the load over two studs has to be twice as good. However, for what I want on the Herald hub adaptors, the nuts are so close up to the main shaft. So anything straight must miss the other nut. I did wonder about a thickish flat plate that bares on the ground at one end and curves round 2 or 3 nuts, with 2 or 3 slots/holes the width/diameter of the across points size of an 11/16ths AF nut. But I reckon it's beyond my abilities to make, and needs a fab shop.

Looking at the picture of pry-bar, if it bent more, a bit near the tip might contact the side of the next nut along. That would take some of the load at least.

Graham

An impact wrench is the answer. Just tighten it till it's under tension hand then a big smash with a hammer. Impact wrenches can save a lot of hassle and unneccessary torqueing or bending when trying to hold something with large pipes and keep hanging on a wrench.

Jeroen

soe8m wrote: ↑Thu Jun 25, 2020 10:34 pm An impact wrench is the answer. Just tighten it till it's under tension hand then a big smash with a hammer. Impact wrenches can save a lot of hassle and uneccessary torqueing or bending when trying to hold something with large pipes and keep hanging on a wrench.

Jeroen

While it's a solution for the Canley hub puller tool problem, it don't solve how to stop the wire wheel adaptors turning when SWMBO is having a (well deserved) lie down. That's because I can't get a slimline socket on the nuts, let alone an impact driver socket. The main concern was when I only had 4 wires and would have to carry a steel as a spare. But now I'm knee-deep in spare wires, it's less of an issue.

If I was to get a tool made for this job, I think it would look something like the attached drawing. But I doubt it's worth it to me. A similar tool for use with the Canley puller would just want 4 holes 20.2mm diameter and a center hole to clear the diameter of the tool's boss.

Graham

Got the puller, did the job in no time.