The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

There should be no need to remove the bulkhead plate.

The steering column shaft will slide up (it may be quite stiff so wear gloves and persevere).




Ian.

The steering column shaft is the part with the splines which attaches to the UJ is that right?

Right!
I find it helps to slacken the column adjusting clamp (the black plastic T handle inside the car) before sliding the column up.

Steve

I see where that is thank you!

Yes just slacken the clamp nut and the column will slide up into the car and you can then pop out the old bush and push in the new one.
The large flat side goes inside the car. You may need some rubber grease or vaseline to help it push in. The push the column back through it and make sure your
steering wheel is dead centre before you rejoin the intermediate shaft. There is a cam that cancels the indicators that must be in the right place.

Jonners .

I've had to do this very job on mine. As Jonners has said, remove the top pinch bolt, slacken the adjustment handle and the column should slide out enough for you to be able to replace the bush with the plate in situ. Fit the new bush from the inside so that it won't fall out. Refit the column into the coupling, fit the pinch bolt and the job is done. I struggled getting the steering column back into the coupling. There's a groove round the bottom of the column which lines up with the hole for the pinch bolt so that it can be fitted and it stops the column from coming out.

Fitted the new bush, that was easy for once!
Just to make sure, where is that assembly paste provided with the bush supposed to go? between the bush and the bulkhead, or between the bush and the column?

Only have to fit the new UJ from the triumph 2000 on now, i'll have to shorten the intermediate shaft as it doesn't go up enough the be fitted to the steering rack.

I used it between both - no problems so far, I reckon that's 4000 miles.

Ok thanks Bill

Hi everyone,
Managed to take the dolly for her first test drive last weekend.( even though the brakes are still pretty spongy)
But after a few goes round the block I notice movement in the steering wheel, even though I had changed the steering column lower UJ and unceased the upper, so I guess the movement is coming from the rack itself ...

Could you have a look at this video tell me what you think, or what I should check

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXJQjid ... e=youtu.be

Cheers!

Normally that much play means the flexible coupling on the intermediate shaft is worn out
but yours looks new. Have a look at the steering rack mounting bushes, and then the inner track rods
on the rack.
Rack mounting bushes can be changed for poly ones. On an rhd car you need to lift the engine slightly to clear
the U bolt clamps. I expect its the same on a lhd car too. Dont loose the locating plate which goes under the rack clamp on one side.

Moss have the poly rack clamps.

Jonners

Can this job be done with the rack on the car or does it mean i need to take it out?

You need first to see if the rack is moving relative to the subframe when you turn the steering wheel.

If it does you need new rack bushes. You can fit these without taking the rack off, but you need to remove the
rack mounting clamps. The bush is split and slips over the rack tube. Then the clamp holds it in place.

If the rack is firm and doesnt move then you need to see which joint is bad. You may well find it easier
to get a new 2nd hand or recon rack if the inner track rod is worn.

Jonners

If your rack is moving on the subframe I suggest you have a read and look at the photographs in the recent "Help with steering rack packing shims" as you may be able to take the play out but most likely you will need to replace the clamping bushes.

Hi,
The rack is not moving relative to the subframe, it seems that the part moving is where the flexible coupling bites on to rack, as I can move it by hand holding on to the flexible coupling (pinion input shaft?). So i guess this means I have to get the rack out and get a 2nd hand one