Help fixing steering column movement
Help fixing steering column movement
Hi everyone,
I know this is a common problem with dolomites as I read on the forum, apparently changing the bulkhead bush would solve the problem but I'd like some information on how to actually change this.
Here's a link to a video of the movement I have:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m6wKqffgS0
Correct me if I'm wrong, to change the I want to dismount the bolts circled in red on the pictures below, and take out the 4 screws metal part?
Sorry about the huge size of the pictures, I don't know why they are this big
I know this is a common problem with dolomites as I read on the forum, apparently changing the bulkhead bush would solve the problem but I'd like some information on how to actually change this.
Here's a link to a video of the movement I have:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m6wKqffgS0
Correct me if I'm wrong, to change the I want to dismount the bolts circled in red on the pictures below, and take out the 4 screws metal part?
Sorry about the huge size of the pictures, I don't know why they are this big
- Attachments
-
- inside paint.jpg (442.45 KiB) Viewed 2264 times
-
- colonne cardan paint.jpg (399.74 KiB) Viewed 2264 times
Last edited by Toledo Man on Thu Apr 17, 2014 6:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Resized the photos
Reason: Resized the photos
-
- Guest contributor
- Posts: 11179
- Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:45 pm
- Location: Middlesex
Re: Help fixing steering column movement
You dont need to take that plate off to change the bush.
If the bush is indeed worn - you can tell because the column will flap about in the hole in the bulkhead - you just separate the
bit inside the car - the adjustable column - from the bit under the bonnet - the intermediate shaft.
Just on the bulkhead you will see the joint - it is on small splines and held by a 1/2 inch AF pinch bolt that runs in a groove. Remove the pinch bolt
- best to do this with the steering wheels set to dead ahead and note the inner column should have the steering wheel set with the spokes
horizontal. Then you can force the intermediate shaft off the splines. I use a forked ball joint tool but a large scredriver or coal chisel does the job.
If its a bit stiff give it a good soak in plus gas while you have some tea. Try and force a chisel in to splay the splined pinch section apart. The column
should push back into the car a bit as well. You can also lever from inside the car under the big flat washer that buts up against the bush.
Once apart you can remove whats left of the old bush and pop the new one in. The flat bit is inside the car- conical bit goes towards the engine side.
Its worth cleaning all the spliney bits up with a wire brush and use a bit of copaslip or similar on reassembly. They last about 3 years and it makes it a lot easier next time.
Jonners
If the bush is indeed worn - you can tell because the column will flap about in the hole in the bulkhead - you just separate the
bit inside the car - the adjustable column - from the bit under the bonnet - the intermediate shaft.
Just on the bulkhead you will see the joint - it is on small splines and held by a 1/2 inch AF pinch bolt that runs in a groove. Remove the pinch bolt
- best to do this with the steering wheels set to dead ahead and note the inner column should have the steering wheel set with the spokes
horizontal. Then you can force the intermediate shaft off the splines. I use a forked ball joint tool but a large scredriver or coal chisel does the job.
If its a bit stiff give it a good soak in plus gas while you have some tea. Try and force a chisel in to splay the splined pinch section apart. The column
should push back into the car a bit as well. You can also lever from inside the car under the big flat washer that buts up against the bush.
Once apart you can remove whats left of the old bush and pop the new one in. The flat bit is inside the car- conical bit goes towards the engine side.
Its worth cleaning all the spliney bits up with a wire brush and use a bit of copaslip or similar on reassembly. They last about 3 years and it makes it a lot easier next time.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
Re: Help fixing steering column movement
Thanks a lot John, that's great, i'll have to get my harraps French/English dictionnary out to understand it all but I should get to it 

Re: Help fixing steering column movement
The club sells this part in Poly, much better than rubber.
- Toledo Man
- Guest contributor
- Posts: 7542
- Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:52 pm
- Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
- Contact:
Re: Help fixing steering column movement
Bill, is it the Superflex one? It is highly recommended.
I'll resize the photos when I get home (I've just got into work and I can't do it from here).
Edit:Now done
I'll resize the photos when I get home (I've just got into work and I can't do it from here).
Edit:Now done
Toledo Man
West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
Yes........
Fit a Superflex bush, (don't bother with the original type, they don't last) but before doing so.......
....the intermediate shaft universal joint looks seized, judging by your video.
When you disconnect the steering column it is easy to check the UJ, it should move freely (with no discernible play).
To do the check, simply hold the shaft steady whilst moving the UJ.
If the UJ is seized it may be salvageable by immersing in a penetrating fluid.
In the event of a new replacement being required, insist on a forged joint (not a pressed joint).
While you are it this, you should also check the condition of the lower joint (which is attached to the steering rack).
Hope this helps
Ian.
....the intermediate shaft universal joint looks seized, judging by your video.
When you disconnect the steering column it is easy to check the UJ, it should move freely (with no discernible play).
To do the check, simply hold the shaft steady whilst moving the UJ.
If the UJ is seized it may be salvageable by immersing in a penetrating fluid.
In the event of a new replacement being required, insist on a forged joint (not a pressed joint).
While you are it this, you should also check the condition of the lower joint (which is attached to the steering rack).
Hope this helps
Ian.
TDC Forum moderator
PLEASE help us to maintain a friendly forum,
either PM or use Report Post if you see anything you are unhappy with. Thanks.
PLEASE help us to maintain a friendly forum,
either PM or use Report Post if you see anything you are unhappy with. Thanks.
Re: Help fixing steering column movement
As Jon said, you may not need to replace the bracket. I had similar movement in mine, found that bush had gone, as in left the car, no bush. Can see you still have so may not be bad.
My bracket had a keyhole shape in where it had been wearing for some time. Then found that top and bottom joints had gone too.....deep joy!
But I got it done myself, quite satisfying.
My bracket had a keyhole shape in where it had been wearing for some time. Then found that top and bottom joints had gone too.....deep joy!
But I got it done myself, quite satisfying.

Re: Help fixing steering column movement
Yes, the club sells the Superflex Chris Witor bush. 

- GrahamFountain
- Guest contributor
- Posts: 1735
- Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 3:35 pm
- Location: St Annes on Sea, Lancs.
Re: Help fixing steering column movement
As well as the bulkhead bush, have you checked the flexible coupling (part number FAM1718)? This is just above the steering rack in the column assembly. I assume it is the same on the left hand drive cars. If you are disassembling that much of the steering column, it is well worth considering overhauling or replacing this part also.
But, be warned, I got one of the "remanufactured" FM1718s (as shown here: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=15525&p=153792&hili ... 18#p153792 ), and it broke after only a few months of use - see here viewtopic.php?f=4&t=26583#p253396. It broke while I was driving.
It does not seem to matter where you go for these either ; all the suppliers seem to be selling these copies, which apparently come from China. The problem looks to be that these copies have smaller diameter bolts than the original ones : 5mm diameter instead of (I think) 5/16ths of an inch (7,9 mm). If you calculate the cross sectional areas, 5 mm bolts are about 2,5 times (25/63) smaller than 5/16ths ones. That would mean they would have to use bolts with 2,5 times the strength to get the same reliability, and I do not think they have. I worry about resistance to metal fatigue especially.
I fitted a universal joint (UJ) instead, which Rimmer Brothers are selling as FM1718P. It is a little bit longer than the one I took out. So it could only be fitted when the intermediate shaft had been removed. But it is much, much better than the replacement FAM1718 was. Even before it broke! According to sprint95m there's an even better part at http://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=145377RM, which I may get and fit the next time I have the column out.
Graham
But, be warned, I got one of the "remanufactured" FM1718s (as shown here: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=15525&p=153792&hili ... 18#p153792 ), and it broke after only a few months of use - see here viewtopic.php?f=4&t=26583#p253396. It broke while I was driving.
It does not seem to matter where you go for these either ; all the suppliers seem to be selling these copies, which apparently come from China. The problem looks to be that these copies have smaller diameter bolts than the original ones : 5mm diameter instead of (I think) 5/16ths of an inch (7,9 mm). If you calculate the cross sectional areas, 5 mm bolts are about 2,5 times (25/63) smaller than 5/16ths ones. That would mean they would have to use bolts with 2,5 times the strength to get the same reliability, and I do not think they have. I worry about resistance to metal fatigue especially.
I fitted a universal joint (UJ) instead, which Rimmer Brothers are selling as FM1718P. It is a little bit longer than the one I took out. So it could only be fitted when the intermediate shaft had been removed. But it is much, much better than the replacement FAM1718 was. Even before it broke! According to sprint95m there's an even better part at http://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=145377RM, which I may get and fit the next time I have the column out.
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Re: Help fixing steering column movement
Thanks everyone for all the help, haven't had time yet but i'll get to get to it tomorrow and also check what the flexible coupling looks like.
Re: Help fixing steering column movement
Hi everyone,
I tried unsuccessfully to remove the union joint from the steering column,
I removed the 1/2 inch pin bolt but i don't understand how to force the intermediate shaft off the steering column, i used a screw driver to splay the pinch section but then am i supposed to drag the steering column inside the car or pull the intermediate shaft down? As it doesn't seem possible to me to drag it down without disconnecting the flexible coupling...
The flexible coupling seems to need replacing too as it has movement too, so I think i'll try to get the Chriswitor part graham recommended.
Here's a video of the whole intermediate shaft to give better idea:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vtEXJe ... e=youtu.be
I tried unsuccessfully to remove the union joint from the steering column,
I removed the 1/2 inch pin bolt but i don't understand how to force the intermediate shaft off the steering column, i used a screw driver to splay the pinch section but then am i supposed to drag the steering column inside the car or pull the intermediate shaft down? As it doesn't seem possible to me to drag it down without disconnecting the flexible coupling...
The flexible coupling seems to need replacing too as it has movement too, so I think i'll try to get the Chriswitor part graham recommended.
Here's a video of the whole intermediate shaft to give better idea:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vtEXJe ... e=youtu.be
Re: Help fixing steering column movement
The lower flexible coupling bolts have to be loosened off and the flexible coupling ( the one attached to the steering rack ) tapped upwards towards the bulkhead until the bottom of the coupling clears the steering rack and then you can remove the intermediate shaft from the steering column , your right your flexible coupling is kaput 

Re: Help fixing steering column movement
Thanks mahony, i'll try it this way today hopefully with success!
Re: Help fixing steering column movement
Hi,I removed the two flexible coupling bolts, the one to the steering rack and the one to the intermediate shaft, i tried tapping it up for 30min with a piece of Wood and hammer but nothing moved
any ideas?

Re: Help fixing steering column movement
You need to get a screwdriver and open up the coupling at both ends to widen it and plenty of wd 40 or similar 
