Page 3 of 3
Re: Misfire Again
Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 4:01 pm
by AlanH
3. the red lead from the magnetronic went to the ign switched + in the fuse box,
4. the black lead from the magnetronic to the VE- on the coil.
5. no changes were made when the coil was changed.
Exactly, when I said take off the ballast resistor I meant from the MS3 , later cars have a ballast wire so then it's a straight swap.
Re: Misfire Again
Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 4:31 pm
by Mahesh
AlanH wrote: ↑Mon Aug 14, 2017 4:01 pm
3. the red lead from the magnetronic went to the ign switched + in the fuse box,
4. the black lead from the magnetronic to the VE- on the coil.
5. no changes were made when the coil was changed.
Exactly, when I said take off the ballast resistor I meant from the MS3 , later cars have a ballast wire so then it's a straight swap.
I was getting worried when you said
"the MS3 does come with the ballast resistor but the concensus seems to be to ditch it and bypass the car's ballast wire"
Re: Misfire Again
Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 11:56 am
by Jon Tilson
Only replace the bypass feed to the coil if you have a different full voltage coil like a bosch blue or DLB105.
If you run a ballasted coil at full volts it will eventually fail and possibly take the lumenition with it.
Ok Ive now read back through the various posts and can see we have mostly correct information but its open to being interpreted incorrectly.
Its good you have a smoother running car, but I'm concerned you may now have a ballasted coil running at full volts. You do NOT want this. It WILL fail as Jeroen, myself and others have said. I'm now also a little uncertain as to how your car is wired up right now.
The safest thing is to re-instate all the original connections as they were when the car was made. So you want all the white and pink wires and white and other tracers (I think the grey one is for the rev counter and may be on the coil minus) on the coil plus, and the lead to the points from coil minus going to the distributor. I suspect this original lead is now replaced with the black lead to your lumenition. Leave that...its fine, leave that in place.
What happens is when you start the car your white pink wire supplies the higher voltage from the starter to the coil plus but ONLY when you have the key in the start position and the starter is turning. If you have an extra supply from the fuse box to the same coil plus connector you will have full battery volts when the ignition is on and this will damage/burn out your coil.
Now just take your lumenition red lead and join it to the fuse box white wire side as before. It MUST NOT go to any coil connection, only direct to the lumenition module.
Do all this and it should work fine.
Jonners
Re: Misfire Again
Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 11:26 am
by ham204
Many thanks to all who contributed in one way or another to my post.
When I bought the coil (MS3) it came with a ballast which I had removed since the Sprint was supposed to have its own ballast wire.
With that setup the car really stumbled to rev up and this was the cause of my original post.
Since I rewired it as per the diagram, using the ballast resistor that came with it, the revving has improved dramatically. So the coil now has a ballast, only it is the one supplied with the coil, since the white/pink wire has been cut.
A look under my dash revealed that there has been a lot of cutting and joining, the worst being bits of wire cover stripped off and another wire joined at this point. So I can imagine that the PO(s) may have done something to the ballast resistor wire unwittingly.
It revs nicely now with only a hint of hesitation. Coil is warm but not hot so it looks good.
Cheers
Mario
Re: Misfire Again
Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 11:29 am
by ham204
Jon Tilson wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2017 11:56 am
Only replace the bypass feed to the coil if you have a different full voltage coil like a bosch blue or DLB105.
If you run a ballasted coil at full volts it will eventually fail and possibly take the lumenition with it.
Ok Ive now read back through the various posts and can see we have mostly correct information but its open to being interpreted incorrectly.
Its good you have a smoother running car, but I'm concerned you may now have a ballasted coil running at full volts. You do NOT want this. It WILL fail as Jeroen, myself and others have said. I'm now also a little uncertain as to how your car is wired up right now.
The safest thing is to re-instate all the original connections as they were when the car was made. So you want all the white and pink wires and white and other tracers (I think the grey one is for the rev counter and may be on the coil minus) on the coil plus, and the lead to the points from coil minus going to the distributor. I suspect this original lead is now replaced with the black lead to your lumenition. Leave that...its fine, leave that in place.
What happens is when you start the car your white pink wire supplies the higher voltage from the starter to the coil plus but ONLY when you have the key in the start position and the starter is turning. If you have an extra supply from the fuse box to the same coil plus connector you will have full battery volts when the ignition is on and this will damage/burn out your coil.
Now just take your lumenition red lead and join it to the fuse box white wire side as before. It MUST NOT go to any coil connection, only direct to the lumenition module.
Do all this and it should work fine.
Jonners
Jonners many thanks for this - on the basis that my understanding of English may not be the same as yours, can you articulate your comments in a diagram? I feel that you and I are now on the same page.
Re: Misfire Again
Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 1:07 pm
by RobSun
I known this may be a little late but I had problems of missing running one of these systems, the problems all went away when I took it off and went back to points and condenser.
One of the things I found whilst trying to resolve the issue was that the ballast wire was not working and was putting out 14.5 volts. In the end to make sure this was not causing further problems as belt and brasses I wired in a new supply from the fuse box and fitted a ballast to this to take everything back to a known original set up.