TR7 Toledo: Saab radiator & Volvo 850 expansion tank fitted

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naskeet
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Re: TR7 Toledo: Sprint gearbox swap

#31 Post by naskeet »

Bitsa wrote: Mon Nov 07, 2022 10:09 am Hazards (Don't seem to have a hazard switch currently)

Demister (I don't think I have a switch, but I think I have a heated rear screen)

I may fit a stalk for the wipers. We had a bit of an incident on while I was navigating for my dad on a classic rally in his (latterly mine, now departed) Toledo where we hit water on test and couldn't see anything. He reached for the wipers in a hurry and the knob came off in his hand :shock:

I don’t know when my 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 “HL Special” was manufactured, but it was first registered in mid-November 1974, in the name of Mann Egerton, the local Rover & Triumph dealership, in Leigh-on-Sea, Essex. In answer to your three points listed above, please note the following about my 1974 Toledo:

• It has a heated rear window, for which the original switch was a pull switch with integral green-lensed tell-tale lamp, mounted in a bracket below the original flat-plank dashboard.

• There was no hazard warning light facility, but I gained this option when I substituted an early-model Dolomite 1850 dashboard with hazard-warning rocker-switch, between the speedometer & tachometer, below the 8-segment warning-light cluster. I think the 1975 and/or 1976 Triumph Toledos were factory-fitted with the hazard warning light facility.

• Based upon my first few years’ experiences of driving the Triumph Toledo during the late-1970s & early-1980s, I would thoroughly recommend substituting the steering-column mounted, Dolomite windscreen wiper & washer stalk-switch, with flick-wipe facility, which will make the car so much safer and more pleasant to drive. However, it’s debatable whether use of the windscreen wipers would have significantly improved visibility through the windscreen, when you plunged into standing water during the classic rally you mentioned

Board index » The Triumph Dolomite Club » Dolomite-related [Start here!] » 40+ Years With A 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 “HL Special”

The Toledo Takes to the Water! – Early-1980s

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29933&p=316552#p316552

Substituted Triumph Dolomite Adjustable Steering Column, Windscreen Wiper & Washer Switch and Other Associated Switch Gear – Winter 1982/83

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 02#p335502

Substituted Early-Model Triumph Dolomite 1850 Dashboard & Instruments – March 1984

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 20#p340529

Bodywork Colour Scheme

If you want a cheap solution to painting the Triumph Toledo then use coach paint/enamel (1 litre should hopefully be enough), that is specifically made for hand painting using a brush, cloth, sponge or mohair pad, which was how coaches and Rolls Royce cars were painted until a few decades ago. This should be much cheaper than using aerosol cans! When I get around to it, I shall probably use coach paint/enamel to over-paint my much modified & upgraded 1973 VW “1600” Type 2 Westfalia Continental motor-caravan (another family heirloom dating from early-1975), which has an unusual rear-window wiper system that I retro-fitted in 1990; adapted from a Vauxhall Astra Mk.1 estate car.

Having a car which is all-BLACK could be a major safety hazard, but many people might find an all-YELLOW car overpowering! A more aesthetically pleasing option, which also addresses the safety issues, might be a YELLOW & BLACK car. This is like my 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 “HL Special” (a six-month old, ex demonstrator cum runabout, bought second-hand by my father in April/May 1975 as a second family car), which had been given a customised “Dolomite Sprint style” livery with Mimosa-yellow paintwork, black vinyl roof & C-pillars and satin-black sills, plus black & silver Cosmic 5½ x 13 inch alloy wheels (21 mm wheel-offset) and other accessories.

Ultimately, the black vinyl degraded, revealing areas of rust underneath. I didn’t want to repaint the roof in yellow which would have involved a lot of time-consuming preparation to get a good finish and fitting a replacement black vinyl roof would have been expensive and probably involve removing & refitting the laminated front windscreen.

Instead of either of these, I opted to paint the roof & C-pillars plus the A & B pillars and all the window surrounds with brushable, dimpled/hammered-finish, black Hammerite enamel, which very-effectively camouflages underlying imperfections but also provides a durable, attractive, low-maintenance finish. I had previously painted the quasi-vertical portion of the boot-lid and rear lamp-unit surrounds with this paint.

Over the years, I had found that the sills and lower sections of the doors were very susceptible to stone chipping. For me, the ideal colour scheme was the original Mimosa yellow (or similar shade) as the dominant colour with “dimpled/hammered-finish” black Hammerite (subject to chip-resistance requirements in the lower portions, where Hagmans Carosol® Body 500 black rubberoid paint would probably be used instead) covering the following areas:

• roof & gutters
• rear window surround, down to the leading edge of the boot lid
• front windscreen surround, down to the trailing edges of the bonnet lid & front wings
• side window surrounds, down to just below where the removed horizontal bright-work would have been
• all door pillars (i.e. A, B & C pillars), down to just below where the side windows’ removed horizontal bright-work would have been
• sills below the doors
• bottom of all doors, up to the lower swage line
• bottom of rear, vertical side panels, up to the lower swage line
• bottom of front, vertical side panels, up to the lower swage line forward of the front doors and around the wheel-arch flares to the front valance
• vertical portion of the rear boot-lid & adjacent rear-light panels, up to where the V-section bright-work trim, would clip over the spot-welded seams

Hence, the car is about 60% yellow & 40% black. I have yet to determine what would be the best colour scheme for the MG 2000 Maestro 5½ x 15 inch cross-lattice style alloy wheels (31 mm wheel-offset), when fitted to a yellow & black, four-door 1974 Triumph Toledo “HL Special”. The main options I am considering are: (a) all black, (b) silver & black, (c) black & silver, (d) yellow & black, and (e) black & yellow. With such a large wheel, the existing all-silver wheel would probably be over-powering and looks out of place with the car’s colour scheme.

Lighting Systems

Unless they were a significant improvement over the H4 headlamps and relatively cheap, I had no intention of substituting LED headlamps, but I was interested in finding out what was available, so I could document this as one of the options for possible headlamp upgrades.

I have had Lucas “Brighteyes” 60/55W H4 headlamps on my 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 “HL Special” since August 1976, which are a vast improvement over the original factory-fitted 75/70W sealed-beam units. The further upgrades that I did make during the 1980s, was to retro-fit 7 inch diameter, Lucas 20-20 homo-focal rally fog lamps and auxiliary driving lamps, with 55W H3 quartz-halogen bulbs (professional rally drivers used 100W H3 quartz-halogen bulbs) which made a tremendous difference when driving on unlit cross-country road at night.

In late-April or early-May 1984, I sent an enquiry letter to the RAC, about the technical and/or legal implications of substituting higher-wattage quartz-halogen bulbs into headlamps, fog lamps & auxiliary driving lamps. In the third of three reply letters during May to July 1984, from M. W. Bussey (Staff Engineer), at the RAC Motoring Services, National Technical Centre, he stated the following, regarding reduced life expectancy of a lamp’s reflector, if significantly higher-wattage bulbs were used.

« Obviously, from a technical view point, the greater wattage outputs by a head lamp unit to a larger extent, the shorter the service life will be of that unit, namely its reflector. »

Sometime during 1988/89, I substituted 100/80W H4 quartz-halogen bulbs with P45t mounting flanges, into my 1973 VW Type 2’s original factory-fitted Hella headlamps, but by mid-1991 it became apparent that the headlamp reflectors were losing their lustre, but I don’t know whether this was attributable to the higher bulb wattage or just the long-term effect of age.

Board index » The Triumph Dolomite Club » Dolomite-related [Start here!] » 40+ Years With A 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 “HL Special”

Substituted 7-inch Lucas 20-20 Homofocal Front Fog Lamps – January 1983

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 30#p335684

My white Toledo, and my Dad's red Toledo with a 1500 twin carb engine.

Image

Image

The photographs of the white and dark-red Toledos suggest that they were travelling at high speed around those bends (one or more tyres close to lifting off the road!?!) on wet road surfaces and/or had worn suspension dampers and/or lacked the easy bolt-on Dolomite Sprint or Dolomite 1850 front & rear suspension anti-roll bars, that have been on my Toledo since late 1982.

Board index » The Triumph Dolomite Club » Dolomite-related [Start here!] » 40+ Years With A 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 “HL Special”

Retro-Fitted Triumph Dolomite Sprint, Front & Rear Suspension Anti-Roll Bars & De-Cambered the Front Wheels – Summer 1982 & Winter 1982/83

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 98#p335498

The spokes of your Dolomite three-spoke steering wheel appear to be highly polished; being far more lustrous than mine, whose satin-chrome finish caused more than enough problems with extremely uncomfortable reflected glare from the sun on many occasions. I much prefer the padded 14½ inch Dolomite steering wheel (easier to use the two steering-column mounted stalk switches) to the original 16 inch Toledo steering wheel, but I shall probably need to paint the spokes with satin-black paint or hammer-finish, black Hammerite paint!

Dundee (in Scotland, not in South Africa; north of Rourke’s Drift!) Residence

We lived at No. 154 Liff Road on the corner with Pitalpin Street, opposite Kelby’s scrap-metal merchants, just a short walk from the Whip Inn and the local grocer’s shop. Our garden backed onto Muirison’s market garden (grew raspberries amongst other things), but that was later redeveloped as a housing cul-de-sac, after we left for Canvey Island, Essex in mid-1965.

https://www.tspc.co.uk/1-Bed-End-Terrac ... ee-DD2-2TU

https://zestate.co.uk/address/154-Liff- ... U/7236761/

It was just a short walk to the Kingsway, NCR – National Cash Register factory and the Timex watch factory, behind which myself and other children went tiddler fishing for sticklebacks, minnows & tadpoles. Although Liff Road School was very nearby, we lived on the “wrong” side of Liff Road, so were not within their catchment area! I don’t know why I didn’t qualify to attend the next nearest school, but it was probably for similar reasons. Our typical leisure haunts were nearby Camperdown Park (featured an enormous monkey-puzzle tree & children’s zoo), Riverside Drive running alongside the airstrip (to monitor progress on building the Tay Road Bridge) Monefieth and Carnoustie.

My parents and I last visited Dundee in 1982, when we made the pilgrimage to St. Andrew’s University in Fife & Queen’s College in Dundee, for my father’s 20th anniversary of graduating from medical school; having started his medical studies in October 1956 at the age of 27¼, when I was 8½ months old. During his medical training, my father at worked at DRI - Dundee Royal Infirmary, King's Cross Hospital and Maryfield Hospital, as well as completing a one-year general-practice GP traineeship with Bruce Robertson, a local GP. This was all before the new, large Nine Wells Hospital was built several years after we left Dundee!

We also visited our former cottage, together with its occupants and neighbours, all of whom my family had known since mid-1956. Mum also had friends in Broughty Ferry, where she had worked as a district nurse, who in common with virtually all district nurses in those days, did her rounds on a bicycle in all weather conditions.

Sometime in 1988/89, I was asked by the trading standards office in Stornoway, whether I could attend the sheriff’s court there as an expert witness, to testify regarding TOG values and associated test results for continental quilts, but I suspect that my then employer’s fees (£55 per hour) plus expenses (travel & subsistence) might have inhibited them proceeding with this. During the 1990s economic recession, I travelled twice by overnight sleeper trains from London to Aberdeen (Robert Gordon University, Department of Architecture) and Glasgow (Building Research Establishment, Scottish Laboratory in East Kilbride) for job interviews, but nothing came of them.

Out of curiosity, I initiated an Internet search a few years ago re Ancrum Road Primary School and was surprised to discover that it had a website, which mentioned that they had refitted one of the class rooms as it had been during the Victorian era. When I was there, the classroom layout was probably not much different and the tawse (two or three tongued leather strap) was used quite liberally by class teachers, to administer punishment for relatively minor infractions, such as not paying attention, talking in class, scraping a chair leg or “poor” academic performance. I shudder to think what fate befell pupils, who committed more serious infractions and were referred to Mister Cameron, the headmaster!?!

www.ancrumroad.ea.dundeecity.sch.uk

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-39044445

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b08gcxb6

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p04qz9s8

For those who have never sampled the delights of Dundee (was in Angus when I lived there!), Tayside, Scotland, (home to Antarctic explorer Captain Scott’s ship “Discovery”), it lies on “Tour 12 – Raspberry Fields Forever”; one of 25 car tours for the independent traveller, in The AA Best Drives – Scotland, 4th Edition, 2005, ISBN 10: 0-7495-4371-X and 13: 978-0-7495-4371-6.

“Tour 12 – Raspberry Fields Forever” is a half-day, 120 mile tour, circling the Sidlaw Hills, travelling from Dundee, through or via Broughty Ferry, Carnoustie, Muirdrum, Arbroath, Lunan, Montrose, Brechin, Forfar, Glamis, Meigle, Alyth, Blairgowrie, Dunkeld, Perth & Glencarse, back to Dundee.
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering, for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

https://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=308177758

Upgraded 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 (Toledo / Dolomite HL / Sprint hybrid)

Onetime member + magazine editor & technical editor of Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club
naskeet
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Re: TR7 Toledo: Sprint gearbox swap

#32 Post by naskeet »

Non-Substitute MG Metro, Austin Metro & Rover Metro Wheels!

Dolomite Sprint 5½ x 13 inch wheels (35 mm offset) will fit perfectly, but I am fairly sure that MG Metro wheels will NOT fit at all. I am convinced that MG Maestro 5½ x 15 inch wheels (31 mm offset) would also be a good choice [I have a set of seven for my 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 "HL Special” - have yet to finalise tyre-size choice from 185/65 R15, 185/60 R15 or 185/55 R15], which will probably require no modifications to the rear-wheel arches, but would ideally involve the substitution of M12 x 1•5 mm wheel-fixing screw-studs.

If your father actually has MG Metro wheels, he would be wise to measure their PCD – pitch circle diameters and wheel-offsets! :!:

If the following entries on the Wheel-Size.com website are to be believed, the PCD – pitch circle diameters for the 1982~90 MG Metro and 1990~94 Rover Metro are 4 inches (i.e. 101•6 mm) and 3¾ inches (i.e. 95•25 mm) respectively.

Hence, on the basis of the 4 inches (i.e. 101•6 mm) PCD alone, the MG Metro wheels would NOT fit onto factory-standard Triumph Toledo or Dolomite wheels hubs. Even if the PCD were appropriate for the Triumph Toledo or Dolomite wheel-hubs, the wheel-offsets of 48 mm & 52 mm would be inappropriate.

https://www.wheel-size.com/size/mg/metro/

https://www.wheel-size.com/size/mg/metro/1982/

https://www.wheel-size.com/size/mg/metro/1990/

On the basis of the 3¾ inches (i.e. 95•25 mm) PCD alone, the Rover Metro wheels would fit onto factory-standard Triumph Toledo or Dolomite wheel-hubs, but the wheel-offset of 52 mm would be inappropriate.

https://www.wheel-size.com/size/rover/metro/

https://www.wheel-size.com/size/rover/metro/1990/

https://www.wheel-size.com/size/rover/metro/1994/

Further on-line research, suggests that the earlier Austin Metro which pre-dated the Rover Metro, had wheels of 4 inches (i.e. 101•6 mm) PCD, in common with the MG Metro.

Retro Rides > Technical and Legal > Austin Metro wheel fitment?

https://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/14 ... el-fitment

The Mini Forum > Mini Technical Sections > Problems, Questions and Technical > Metro Wheel Pcd?

https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/t ... wheel-pcd/
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering, for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

https://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=308177758

Upgraded 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 (Toledo / Dolomite HL / Sprint hybrid)

Onetime member + magazine editor & technical editor of Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club
Bitsa
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Re: TR7 Toledo: Sprint gearbox swap

#33 Post by Bitsa »

Thanks for the replies naskeet! No idea about the actual source wheels, but we will test fit them before we consider using them. Relevant to Triumph and Dundee chat I found this picture the other day of a Dolomite outside Draffens department store on Whitehall Street. I'm hoping to pop down early one morning and recreate the photo on Whitehall street one day, although there are now bus stands on the street. Draffens is long gone, although it's name lives on in a speakeasy style cocktail bar on Couttie's Wynd round the corner. The "secret" bar has no sign outside, simply a light above a door down a back alley!

Image

I've been meaning to update the thread, the car is back on the road and driving well with the sprint transmission but not much has been done to it lately. I pretty much put it straight into storage when it was done, and it's been tucked up there since. Once I've got a few DIY tasks in the flat done I'll bring it out and finish up some last bits. It's in the Dundee Museum of Transport's very reasonably priced storage facility, I popped by the other day to check on it.

Image

Does anybody know the diameter of the stock sprint / dolomite steering wheel? I want to check if the one I have is bigger, as I suspect it's a similar design but possibly a larger diameter one from a different model?

And lastly, what were the colour codes/names used for the off white shade used on the Toledo, such as my old one upthread? I've seen a few different shades, and I'm not sure if there were variations in the colours, or just fading, different lighting and slightly incorrect resprays? I'm considering painting it this summer, and leaning towards that colour.
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xvivalve
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Re: TR7 Toledo: Sprint gearbox swap

#34 Post by xvivalve »

Stock Dolomite steering wheel is 14”

The paint code for white is 19. There was a ‘Sebring white’ at 29, but I doubt you’ve seen that in the flesh.
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Re: TR7 Toledo: Sprint gearbox swap

#35 Post by Carledo »

I fancy the "off white" colour you are referring to is "Honeysuckle" I would call it a pale, or primrose, yellow myself, but Triumph lists it among the "white" shades in it's palette. The actual colour varies a bit with age and paint oxidisation, anywhere from a distinct yellowness when new to "only just on the cream side of white" when old and uncared for.

The 74 2000 estate i'm taking on is honeysuckle, you can see a pic of it in my "end of an era" thread in the general section of this forum. I don't expect it to stay that colour for long, a quick dose of rattlecan satin black would look better in the short term! Long term, I think Sapphire or Royal blue, or a nice deep Purple metallic, something like Renault "Bayeux Violet"

As to what colour you should paint yours, whatever takes your fancy really. 'Twere mine i'd probably go with the factory standard white with colourful graphics of your choice. Though I do like Pete's racecar in Kawasaki Green, you'd never lose that in a carpark!

Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
Bitsa
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Re: TR7 Toledo: Sprint gearbox swap

#36 Post by Bitsa »

Thanks, that’s useful info. Honeysuckle is currently the currently my preference - it’s a colour that suits the car well, and the colour it came out of the factory in. I’m leaning towards pastels, something placid that won’t hint at what’s under the bonnet. I’d also like it to look as if it could have been a factory colour of the era, even if it isn’t.

A few options I’ve been thinking of:

Gulf Blue (Currently second favourite to Honeysuckle)
Image

A light pastel pink (A bit of a wildcard but I think it would work)
Image

Fern Green (I love this colour, and greens in general but I’m not a sure green suits the Toledo best)
Image

Photon Red (Getting a bit aggressive but I do love an orangey red colour)
Image

I’m aware there are similar colours on the triumph palette, but I prefer these slightly different shades - Porsche tends of have some great colours hence why I’ve used them for inspiration. I’ll be painting it myself with rattle cans - the budget isn’t there for a proper respray. Given that I think it’s worthwhile picking a colour that will hide imperfections. A friend did his VW camper with rattle cans and archived a pretty good result with a bit of care though.
naskeet
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Re: TR7 Toledo: Sprint gearbox swap

#37 Post by naskeet »

Substitute Wheels
No idea about the actual source wheels, but we will test fit them before we consider using them.

Given that MG wheels with large-diameter wheel-fixing holes and a PCD of either 3¾ inches or 4 inches would probably fit over 3¾ inches PCD, 3/8 UNF screw-studs, it would be wise to check whether all four of the screw-studs are properly centred in the wheel-fixing holes, by fitting some wheel-fixing nuts, as part of the wheels’ trial fitment.

Dundee, Angus Scotland
Relevant to Triumph and Dundee chat I found this picture the other day of a Dolomite outside Draffens department store on Whitehall Street. I'm hoping to pop down early one morning and recreate the photo on Whitehall street one day, although there are now bus stands on the street. Draffens is long gone, although it's name lives on in a speakeasy style cocktail bar on Couttie's Wynd round the corner. The "secret" bar has no sign outside, simply a light above a door down a back alley!

https://www.rootsfurniture.co.uk/draffens-dundee/

It’s debatable whether I as a ¾~9½ year old, ever visited Draffens department store on Whitehall Street, but I think my father bought his duffle-coat with triangular leather-covered buttons, from Caird’s somewhere in Dundee. Personally, I was more interested in the observatory on the Law Hill and the Natural History Museum; including a static-exhibit which featured a full-scale polar bear and an Eskimo with skin-covered kayak.

https://www.thecourier.co.uk/fp/news/du ... -draffens/

Whitehall Street and Couttie's Wynd, are both mentioned in the following publication, which was a present from family friends a few years ago.

Norman Watson, “Luath Guides - Dundee: A comprehensive guide for locals and visitors”, Luath Press Ltd., Edinburgh, 2015, ISBN 978-1-910745-19-9

In a sub-section headed Couttie's Wynd, on Page 44 of Chapter Two – Nethergate and Overgate, it mentions that “the gentle curve is thought to be a purposeful kink to deflect waterfront winds”. I had not previously encountered the word “wynd”, which my English dictionary defines as a noun used in Scotland & northern England, meaning a narrow street or alley; derived from the Middle English roots of “wind”, as a transitive verb, meaning to go in a circular, spiral, curved or crooked course.

It also mentions that the “Nethergate Entrance to Couttie's Wynd, forms part of the former Draffen & Jarvie draper’s store, whose celebrated tea room was panelled to resemble an ocean liner”. I wonder whether this is the same Draffen, as that of Draffens department store on Whitehall Street.
Last edited by naskeet on Mon Apr 03, 2023 3:55 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering, for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

https://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=308177758

Upgraded 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 (Toledo / Dolomite HL / Sprint hybrid)

Onetime member + magazine editor & technical editor of Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club
naskeet
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Re: TR7 Toledo: Sprint gearbox swap

#38 Post by naskeet »

Paint & Trim Colours & Shades
And lastly, what were the colour codes/names used for the off white shade used on the Toledo, such as my old one upthread? I've seen a few different shades, and I'm not sure if there were variations in the colours, or just fading, different lighting and slightly incorrect resprays? I'm considering painting it this summer, and leaning towards that colour.

According to the Paint & Trim Coding System on Page 04-6 – General Specification Data, of my official BLMC factory-published Triumph Toledo Repair Operation Manual [Part Number 545468/2E], there are three colour options that are classified as WHITE [Basic Colour Number 09], which are White [Shade 19], Sebring White [Shade 29] and Honeysuckle [Shade 39]; the code for one of which, should be marked on the car’s commission Plate, which will also include the commission number / VIN / chassis number. There should be code numbers for both the paint and the trim (i.e. upholstery & trim panels).

Despite my father having had a white-painted 1964 VW 1200 Beetle and a dark-cream-painted 1972 Fiat 124 Special T, I am not keen on white or off-white as a paint-colour for cars, apart from when it forms part of a two-tone colour scheme, which includes the Brilliant Orange & Pastel White of our 1973 VW 1600 Type 2. From my perspective, large expanses of white look very bland, and also cause a car to blend too easily into the background of an overcast sky and/or concrete roads & buildings; compromising road safety. As I might have previously mentioned, there are other colours I do not favour, owing to their significantly less than optimal contrast with the surrounding environment under different conditions!

My 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300’s commission plate is marked Paint 64 and Trim 11, which correspond to Mimosa Yellow paint and Black trim. In principle, my commission plate should perhaps be amended to Paint 64/11 and Trim 11/C16, which correspond to Mimosa Yellow paint [majority of painted area] & Black paint [minority of painted area] and Black trim [majority of area] & Midnight Blue trim [minority of area | upholstered parts of cloth-covered (C-prefix to shade-number) Dolomite HL front & rear seats]. I certainly notified the DVLA of the revised Yellow / Black painted colour scheme, which is a legal requirement!

Before you undertake any necessary remedial work to the bodywork or paintwork, you might wish to read the following book, written by a professional corrosion technologist; of which I was able to borrow a copy during 1990~91, from the university-library at the Royal Military College of Science, shortly after the book was first published.

Dr. Hugh McArthur, Motor Vehicle Corrosion Prediction and Prevention on Vehicles (1950 - Present Day)", Expert Books, 1990, ISBN 0-9515787-0-7 (paperback) & 0-9515787-1-5 (hardback).

https://www.abebooks.com/book-search/ti ... thur-hugh/

https://archive.org/details/corrosionpredict0000mcar

https://openlibrary.org/books/OL2283763 ... esent_day)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corrosion-Pred ... 0951578707

If I am not mistaken, that green commercial-vehicle (registration number: RSU 80* or PSU 80*), with low-level cab bubble windows, in the photograph background of your black Triumph Toledo 2000 TR7, is an Austin / Leyland FG-Series lorry. During Summer-1978 & Easter-1979, I had a university-vacation job with the local Co-operative Dairy Depot, about 10~15 minutes’ walk from my home on Canvey Island, Essex, which some of the time, involved driving a long-wheel base, Leyland FG440 flat-bed lorry, with double rear wheels and 2½ tons load capacity, to carry crates of milk in 1-pint bottles (priced per Imperial pint, at 12½ new-pence = 2 shillings & 6 pence = 1 half-crown).

Image

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leyland_Motors

https://motor-car.net/morris/item/21000-morris-fg

https://www.aronline.co.uk/commercials/ ... ht-trucks/

Otherwise, I was driving slightly smaller Commer / Dodge Walk-Thru [available as vans or chassis-cab units, of 1½, 2 or 3 ton load capacity, with petrol or diesel engines) diesel-powered milk floats of 2 tons load capacity or various electric milk floats.

Image

Fortunately, by then, I already had significant experience of driving my family’s 1973 VW 1600 Type 2 Westfalia Continental motor-caravan; a vehicle I still have. Driving the Leyland FG440 lorry, was useful experience for driving a truck-based, Luton-bodied, Ford Honey motorhome / recreation vehicle (circa 23 feet long x 8 feet wide x 10 feet high) in California, USA, during September 1981.
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering, for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

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Upgraded 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 (Toledo / Dolomite HL / Sprint hybrid)

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Re: TR7 Toledo: Sprint gearbox swap

#39 Post by naskeet »

Steering Wheel
The spokes of your Dolomite three-spoke steering wheel appear to be highly polished; being far more lustrous than mine, whose satin-chrome finish caused more than enough problems with extremely uncomfortable reflected glare from the sun on many occasions. I much prefer the padded 14½ inch Dolomite steering wheel (easier to use the two steering-column mounted stalk switches) to the original 16 inch Toledo steering wheel, but I shall probably need to paint the spokes with satin-black paint or hammer-finish, black Hammerite paint!
Does anybody know the diameter of the stock sprint / dolomite steering wheel? I want to check if the one I have is bigger, as I suspect it's a similar design but possibly a larger diameter one from a different model?
xvivalve wrote: Tue Mar 07, 2023 2:39 pm Stock Dolomite steering wheel is 14”.

When quoting steering-wheel rim-diameters, it would be advisable to specify whether one is referring to the inner-diameter, mean-diameter, outer-diameter or otherwise. I am unsure about the 14 inch measurement to which XVIVALVE refers!?! The “four-headlamp” Dolomite HL steering-wheel rim in my 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 “HL Special” has inner, mean & outer diameters respectively as follows:

Inner diameter = 319 mm (i.e. 12•56 inches or 12-9/16 inches), which is 12½ inches to the nearest half-inch.

Mean diameter = 342 mm (i.e. 13•46 inches or 13-15/32 inches), which is 13½ inches to the nearest half-inch.

Outer diameter = 365 mm (i.e. 14•37 inches or 14-3/8 inches), which is 14½ inches to the nearest half-inch.

The Dolomite’s three-spoke steering wheel appears to be similar, if not identical, to that of the Triumph Stag; which is said to be of 16 inches diameter on the Mk.1 model and 14½ inches diameter on the Mk.2 model. I vaguely recall seeing it written somewhere, that the very-early Dolomite 1850 models were fitted with a steering wheel of 16 inches diameter, which might or might not be true!

http://www.stagbytriumph.co.uk/specs.html

« 3 spoke alloy with padded rim and centre boss. The Mk 1 steering wheel was 16 inches (406 mm) in diameter while the Mk 2 was reduced to 14½ inches (368 mm). Some late cars had the slots in the spokes filled with black rubber. The steering column is adjustable by approximately 4 inches (102 mm) axially and 2 inches (51 mm) vertically and incorporates an anti-theft locking device »

LHD Triumph Dolomite Sprint steering wheel with TRIUMPH centre pad

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Triumph Stag steering wheel

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The Triumph 2500 steering wheel also appears to be of the same design, albeit with a centre-pad embossed with the number 2500.

Triumph 2500 steering wheel

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The Triumph 2000 Mk.2 steering wheel might also be of the same design, albeit with a centre-pad embossed with the number 2000, which might be more appropriate for your Triumph Toledo 2000 TR7 than one embossed with DOLOMITE, if you can’t find one embossed with TRIUMPH like mine.

It wasn’t originally my intention to retro-fit a Dolomite HL steering-wheel, but in order to retro-fit the pair of dual-steering column-mounted, stalk-switches (particularly the windscreen wiper & washer switch with flick-wipe facility – a important ergonomic upgrade in my opinion) & associated two-piece plastic nacelle with main-lighting rotary-switch, I needed to first retro-fit the “four-headlamp” Dolomite HL adjustable steering-column, from which the pair of stalk-switches & nacelle had been salvaged, owing to incompatibility with the original Toledo steering-column.

Board index » The Triumph Dolomite Club » Dolomite-related [Start here!] » 40+ Years With A 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 “HL Special”

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29933

Substituted Triumph Dolomite Adjustable Steering Column, Windscreen Wiper & Washer Switch and Other Associated Switch Gear – Winter 1982/83

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 02#p335502

However, I am glad I did retro-fit the smaller-diameter Dolomite HL steering-wheel (with padded rim & stitched-leather glove), which facilitated easier operation of the stalk-switches and provided more-comfortable driving. Having a TOLEDO, I chose to later substitute a more appropriate centre-pad embossed with TRIUMPH, in place of the original centre-pad embossed with DOLOMITE, and retro-fitted long, tear-drop shaped rubber grommets in the tear-drop shaped slots of the steering-wheel spokes; which I think I salvaged from a late-model Dolomite.

Board index » The Triumph Dolomite Club » The Public Bar - General Chat » The consensus on the best steering wheel size

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... =5&t=34256

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 57#p321239
Last edited by naskeet on Fri Apr 07, 2023 4:54 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering, for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

https://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=308177758

Upgraded 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 (Toledo / Dolomite HL / Sprint hybrid)

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Re: TR7 Toledo: Sprint gearbox swap

#40 Post by naskeet »

Steering Wheels
I vaguely recall seeing it written somewhere, that the very-early Dolomite 1850 models were fitted with a steering wheel of 16 inches diameter, which might or might not be true!

I was reasonably sure I had found this information, in what should be a reliable source, which proved to be the official BLMC Triumph Dolomite workshop manual, that I cited in the following topic thread & post in mid-February 2019, about steering wheels and steering-rack ratios (i.e. number of steering-wheel turns from lock-to-lock)

Board index » The Triumph Dolomite Club » The Public Bar - General Chat » The consensus on the best steering wheel size

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... =5&t=34256

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 56#p321300

According to the information on Page 04-2, Section 04 - General Specification Data, of the official BLMC Triumph Dolomite 1850 Repair Operation Manual, Second Edition, 1973 (Publication Part No. 545206), the Triumph Dolomite was equipped with a 16 inch (407 mm) diameter steering wheel for early-models and a 14•5 inch (368 mm) diameter steering wheel for later-models. There were two steering rack options as follows:

Early Models – 3 turns lock to lock

Later Models – 3¾ turns (three and three quarter turns) lock to lock

It further states that the turning circle between kerbs is 30 feet 9 inches (9•4 metres)

Without seeing a complete vehicle, it might be difficult to distinguish between original factory-fitted steering wheels for the Triumph 2000 Mk.2, 2500 & 2•5PI; assuming they are of the same pattern; noting that many pictures are incorrectly labelled on the Internet. I have seen a few interiors showing the steering wheel & dashboard, which are claimed to be of a Triumph 2000, which are in fact a Triumph Dolomite (possibly a 2000 Sprint) which are distinguishable by their very different heater & ventilation control-lever configurations!

Triumph 2500 or 2000 Mk.2 steering wheel (allegedly!?!)

Image
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering, for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

https://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=308177758

Upgraded 1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 (Toledo / Dolomite HL / Sprint hybrid)

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Re: TR7 Toledo: Sprint gearbox swap

#41 Post by Bitsa »

Thanks, I’ve been able to find a 14” wheel on eBay. Handily they had included the diameter in the listing.

I’ve found a garage now so I’ve got somewhere I can store the car and work on it whenever I like. I’ve been pottering around doing things most days after work. First thing I sorted an exhaust leak from the manifold to exhaust end.

The engine was vibrating at idle, which I’ve managed to somewhat sort. I had it running OK, although the idle was a bit high (1k). This was just with a tube for balance, and using the lifter for mixture and given I don’t have much experience with carbs I’m pretty happy I didn’t make things worse! It runs better from a start too. Haven’t even checked the spark plugs yet, so there might be improvements to be made there.

I’ve got a spark plug gap tool, carb balancer and cheap narrowband afr sensor ordered, and I’m going to retune it from base setting as per the tr7 workshop manual. I’ll see how that goes and if I’m still not happy I might get them rebuilt. I’ve got a friend with a Suntune and more carb experience if I’m struggling.

I’ve also sorted the overdrive wiring and tested it - overdrive kicks in nicely. I bought a gearbox and gearstick switch loom. The gearbox loom wasn’t really suitable, it was designed for a box with overdrive in 3/4 only and a reverse sensor. I have a second switch for overdrive in second, and as far as I can tell no reverse switch. I also wanted a telltale light for the overdrive.

I’ve made up a custom loom, power goes to the gearstick switch, then to the gearbox switches and telltale in parallel, then to the overdrive. The light will come on when the gearstick switch is activated, so if I’m starting in first I’ll know if overdrive will come on when I go into second. The wires at the gearstick switch end shorted at one point, it was a pretty tight fit getting them in. I took the wires out and put a 90 degree bend in the connectors so they fit a bit better and retaped over them to prevent it shorting again, and it went back together a bit neater. I could do with redoing the solenoid earth wire though, and wrapping the wires. I’ll put it on a relay too when I fit my fuse and relay box.

Took a short test drive with the new steering wheel, much better size for the car. Not too stiff at slow speed, I think I could get away with a 13” wheel if I wanted to go smaller.

Once I’ve tidied the wiring and rechecked the gearbox fill level I’ll refit the trans tunnel, I’ve got a roll of non sealing mastic for the gasket. I need to adjust the handbrake, and retune the carbs as above then it’s time to put a few hundred shakedown miles on it as I’ve only done about 20 miles since the sprint transmission went in.

I’ve got a bit of noise from the clutch / flywheel area (I think - it seems to be forward if the gearbox itself. It’s a bit of rotational noise with the clutch out (this may not even be out of the ordinary!) this goes away with the clutch in and is replaced by a slight knocking. This noise got quieter when I improved the idle - so it’s possible it’s not even transmission but a slight misfire or something.

I’m not worrying about that for now. If I have to open it up I want to swap to a sprint subframe at the same time, and I’ll be replacing the clutch and flywheel anyway. When we fitted the gearbox the sprint clutch didn’t fit on flywheel, so I reused the clutch from the 1850 transmission. We didn’t change the throwout bearing or the bush mentioned in the most recent dolly mixture. My feeling is that any issues in there will only affect things that I’d be replacing anyway, so it’s not worth fretting about immediately as it works fine.


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Re: TR7 Toledo: Sprint gearbox swap

#42 Post by Bitsa »

So I got the carbs running decently, at which point the cheap plastic rev counter which was balanced on the dash so I could see it from outside fell onto the floor, and the needle fell off :|

So I grabbed an old dolomite tach I had, wired it up and started it again. It ran fine, the rev counter worked, then within 10 seconds died. Thinking perhaps the rev counter had caused some issue, I unplugged it, no start! The next day it did start but ran horribly. All cylinders were getting spark, but I seemed erratic. A new coil didn’t help - assuming as the tach was fed from the coil that may have been damaged.

Interestingly, I believe the lumenition system needs (I think) at least 3ohms coil resistance. The new and old coil are both 1.5 and I can’t find a ballast resistor fitted. Annoyingly the “1.5ohm” resistor I bought seems to be 3ohm. But that’s a problem for later - it was running fine previously with just 1.5, so it can stay that way until I figure out the issue.

The problem may be the lumenition system, but that’s a sealed unit I know nothing about so into the next thing I know nothing about - the distributor.

I set the engine to 10deg BTDC and pulled the cap - the leads seemed to go to the right place, and with a light hooked up as per the lumenition instructions it lit at the correct point - sort of. There was a lot of play in the rotor, meaning I could switch it on and off by turning the top of the rotor without loosening the distributor clamp. I’ve removed the distributor and it has about 8mm of rotational play measure on the outside of the rotor. This play is in the cams on under the cap, and is completely free, the springs do nothing as far as I can see. Is the normal?

Additionally, the vacuum advance fitting is stopping the cap for fitting securely, and it has about 1mm vertical play in the shaft. Oh and when I pulled one of the HT leads off the fitting came off and is still on the distributor cap :lol:

So obviously I need HT leads - are Magencor ones to go for? I might as well get a new distributor cap too. I was thinking I’d get a new distributor and at least I’ve got a spare, but then I saw the cost!

So, is this distributor OK or repairable? If not I’m tempted to go for a 123 ignition setup, if I’m spending hundreds anyway I might as well upgrade - and this would also rule out any issues with the Lumenition system.

They don’t make one for the tr7 - is fitting one the same hassle as it is on the sprint? I think I read a 1500 distributor clamp will work on the tr7 but I can’t find that post now!

Thanks!


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Re: TR7 Toledo: Distributor Woes

#43 Post by xvivalve »

I think i may have a used dizzy I can send you if you want a spare/spare parts?
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Re: TR7 Toledo: Distributor Woes

#44 Post by Bitsa »

Thanks Alun, I might drop you a message about it! Im currently leaning towards the 123 if I can figure out the fitment issues. I’m away for a long weekend, going to mull it over and decide when I get back!
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Re: TR7 Toledo: Distributor Woes

#45 Post by Bitsa »

Taking a break from the distributor I started fitting the new rev counter / digital gauge. It slid inside an old speedo housing nicely, and I don’t think it looks too out of place.

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I took out the old fuel gauges and sized up the oil pressure and AFR gauges for fitment. I think something should be doable here, although I’ll need make sure I have a way of fitting it - as with the gauges on it will be wider than the hole in the dash on the front and the back of the gauge. AFR gauge is a bit garish, but it’s was cheap and will do for now.

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I’ve test fitted a Dolomite wash wipe stalk, I just need to figure out the wiring and modify the column shroud.
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