Petrol, Optimax or Additives?
Petrol, Optimax or Additives?
Hi,
I have just bought a 1972 1850 Dolly. I've started running the car on Shell Optimax for the higher octane, but do i need to put lead additives in aswell or any further octane boost?
What does anyone recommend?
Thanks James
I have just bought a 1972 1850 Dolly. I've started running the car on Shell Optimax for the higher octane, but do i need to put lead additives in aswell or any further octane boost?
What does anyone recommend?
Thanks James
Re: Petrol, Optimax or Additives?
I've always ran regular unleaded with Castrol Valvemaster additive. Haven't noticed any difference between regular Valvemaster and Valvemaster Plus though!
1978 Triumph Dolomite Sprint (project thread)
1966 Volkswagen 1300 (project thread)
1962 Austin Mini (project)
1962 MGA 1600 Mark II
1965 Mobylette SP50 (project)
2001 Rover 75 2.5-litre V6
1966 Volkswagen 1300 (project thread)
1962 Austin Mini (project)
1962 MGA 1600 Mark II
1965 Mobylette SP50 (project)
2001 Rover 75 2.5-litre V6
Re: Petrol, Optimax or Additives?
Thanks, i'll look into them!!
Re: Petrol, Optimax or Additives?
I am running on optimax ,and the 1850 dont need no lead, 

Re: Petrol, Optimax or Additives?
Shell V-Power and, as Mike (BiFold) said, the engine is metallurgically suited to petrol without added lead, so it doesn't get additives. Mine's just as happy on supermarket 99RON unleaded from the big Tesco or 97 from Sainsbury. I tried some real 4 star once, just for the hell of it, but it was just a waste of the extra 3p per litre and the base fuel's the same as the premium unleaded in any case, so those fuel pump diaphragms still ought to be the nitrile ones rather than latex. 

- Toledo Man
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Re: Petrol, Optimax or Additives?
I use supermarket unleaded (95 RON) with no ill effects and I certainly don't use any additive. The 1850 lump doesn't need it.
Toledo Man
West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
Re: Petrol, Optimax or Additives?
Thanks for all these comments, really useful!!
Re: Petrol, Optimax or Additives?
Unless your timing is set back from 11 to about 8 degrees, you'd definitely get far better MPG figures on 97 or 99.Toledo Man wrote:I use supermarket unleaded (95 RON) with no ill effects and I certainly don't use any additive. The 1850 lump doesn't need it.
Mine doesn't pink on 95, even at the 13 degrees that it prefers to run at, but the difference in the consumption actually outweighs the slight extra cost of the higher Octane rating, around here that's currently 95.9 vs 97.9p per litre. Emission figures are greatly improved too; otherwise unaltered, I get 221ppm unburnt HCs on 95, 117ppm on 97 and oddly enough, 181 on 99RON.
Those figures have each been taken as an average, based on 500 Miles of each grade of fuel at a variety of ambient temps and humidity readings, CO was a constant 2.8% throughout.

Re: Petrol, Optimax or Additives?
Can i also just ask do i need any Valve Seat Protection for using unleaded fuel. I know one person has said they use it and another said they don't, does the car actually need this, will it do it damage if i don't use it?
Thanks J
Thanks J
Re: Petrol, Optimax or Additives?
No.jedo wrote:Can i also just ask do i need any Valve Seat Protection for using unleaded fuel. I know one person has said they use it and another said they don't, does the car actually need this, will it do it damage if i don't use it?
Thanks J
The inserts used in any aluminium head must be hard steel or they'd fall out since cast iron doesn't expand anywhere near as much as the surrounding ali, and the valves won't weld themselves to their seats as they're dissimilar. I've raced and hillclimbed any number of Reliant Rebels (Reliant's own all-aluminium "F750" engines) with original heads on, there was a scare during the '90s when some garages were actually charging people for "conversions" but it turned out that the tube stock supplied was exactly the same as the original material. The only thing that may need to be changed would be rubbers such as stem seals, fuel pump diaphragm and carb diaphragms, but even if you were using leaded four star, the current base fuel is the same as the bog stock unleaded and would still burn holes in exposed, latex-based components. Don't let that worry you either, I just had a fresh fuel pump for mine and that has a nitrile diaphragm, Triumph valve guides aren't too sloppy either, so unlike any of my old F750 engines, even running without stem seals wouldn't be the end of the World, the original ones on there are fine though.
Just fill the tank with 97 octane stuff for best efficiency and get out there and enjoy!

My old, Ice blue Dolomite auto last had its head off at 160,000 miles approximately, and that showed no recession, no pocketing and no signs of trouble at all after 70,000 mainly motorway miles on unleaded. When that car came off the road in '95, at 191,000 miles, the engine still had the same valve clearances as it had when purchased by me, at 30,000 miles from new.