anti roll bar ends

[marko]

My uprights on the front arbiter are shot. The rubber is hanging out. I see that for 80 something quid you can buy polymers bushes ones. I cleaned the end up and found it to be exactly 1/2". I pushed an old mock up rod end on and bobs your uncle. All that's needed then is to cut a 1/2" unf thread on it, drill some bigger holes in the lower bar that holds them and your away.
I have all the stuff but some new rod ends so a.cost of 15 quid max for me. I'm not a racer but would like to save some money. Please give me your thoughts as the arb is sat on the bench getting scratched.
Thanks, Mark.

[marko]

Come on. Some help please.

[sprint95m]

I don't think that is such a good idea Mark.

Instead I would try different bushes. A while back someone posted on here that Dolomite shocker lower bushes fit.
I have not tried this myself, but am of the opinion that it is worth a punt (because these bushes from Superflex are not so very dear).




Ian.

[marko]

The lower shock bushes are totally wrong. The hole in th metal sleeve is only 3/8" id so no where near the 1/2" required. I'm sorry but I think you have the wrong end of the stick on this one. Thanks though. Mark

[sprint95m]

It needs to be Superflex bushes because these have a removable sleeve.

As you have noticed, ordinary bushes are no good because the sleeves are bonded in.


Sorry, I should have pointed this out before.




Ian.

[MIG Wielder]

I had to Google the " Rod ends" but I now see what they are......
http://www.nfauto.co.uk/rod_ends.htm

Now this would look to be quite a good idea .

Does the bit of the anti-roll bar that goes through the centre hole in the Rod-end have to be machined accurately to be a tight fit ?
I seem to remember when I did mine that the anti roll bar had quite a rough finish.
The location of the ARB would be better but without the rubber bush I think there may be more road noise transfer ?

Cheers for now,
Tony.

[Carledo]

I had to Google the " Rod ends" but I now see what they are......
http://www.nfauto.co.uk/rod_ends.htm

Now this would look to be quite a good idea .

Does the bit of the anti-roll bar that goes through the centre hole in the Rod-end have to be machined accurately to be a tight fit ?
I seem to remember when I did mine that the anti roll bar had quite a rough finish.
The location of the ARB would be better but without the rubber bush I think there may be more road noise transfer ?

Cheers for now,
Tony.

Thanks Tony! I thought he was talking about making a track rod end fit and was having trouble visualizing how that would work!

I would say that that rod end you pictured would work great and shouldn't be TOO noisy in service since it will still be rubber mounted to the subframe (in this case I think poly would be a DISadvantage) BUT it would HAVE to be a CLOSE interference fit on the AR bar or the damn thing would rattle its (and your) brains out! The knocking you get from even slightly worn drop link joints on "moderns" is warning enough! The only drawback I can see is that the original design pemits the bar to move through the bush to a certain extent to account for differences in apparent length from suspension travel whereas this system wouldn't allow this movement (admittedly not large) and might put too much strain on the (not very strong) subframe clamps.

Steve

[soe8m]

You have to make a link from these using two a side. Then it can move without stress.

Jeroen

[Neil907]

You have to make a link from these using two a side. Then it can move without stress.

Jeroen

I agree with Jeroen.
Typically two are put back to back, sometimes with an adjustable link in between.
They also do not last that long as the dirt gets in them and they wear fast. You can get rubber dust boots for them to help.

Do Jigsaw not sell poly ends the same style as the originals which would probably be a better bet if the car is used regularly.