MOT news from me
MOT news from me
Failed...
On;
nearside side light not working
brake lights don't work when the side lights are on.. work fine when the side lights are off though
near side rack gaiter split
front flexis
Advisories on all the front ball joints, no play but the rubber gaitors split or missing.
Tester said my welding looked crap on one side of the rail which I admit it is. I just couldn't get a seam going and it looks like a bird has shat all over it. Which is frustrating as I was getting good seams on my scrap piece of metal I was using to set my welder up with. But as it's penetrated and I've welded all around it he said it's more than likely stronger than original.
There was a slight imbalance on the front brakes which he forgot to put on the sheet...
Brake readings were
NSF OSF
190 230
NSR OSR
150 150
Handbrake
NS OS
120 120 Both locked
Thing is the car brake in a straight line, which is odd... As my yellow dolly used to duck and dive under hard braking. See if the braded flexis I've got will sort it
On;
nearside side light not working
brake lights don't work when the side lights are on.. work fine when the side lights are off though
near side rack gaiter split
front flexis
Advisories on all the front ball joints, no play but the rubber gaitors split or missing.
Tester said my welding looked crap on one side of the rail which I admit it is. I just couldn't get a seam going and it looks like a bird has shat all over it. Which is frustrating as I was getting good seams on my scrap piece of metal I was using to set my welder up with. But as it's penetrated and I've welded all around it he said it's more than likely stronger than original.
There was a slight imbalance on the front brakes which he forgot to put on the sheet...
Brake readings were
NSF OSF
190 230
NSR OSR
150 150
Handbrake
NS OS
120 120 Both locked
Thing is the car brake in a straight line, which is odd... As my yellow dolly used to duck and dive under hard braking. See if the braded flexis I've got will sort it
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- Guest contributor
- Posts: 177
- Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 12:06 pm
- Location: Swansea
I assume you know that, ball joint repair kits are only any good if you have the type of ball joints that are rebuildable...
I they are any use to you, I have two ball joint repair kits, Quinton Hazell QSJ692RK (no idea whether they are for upper or lower ball joints) -yours for free if it'll help (or swap for something I need, like a spare starter motor?).
Cheers,
Mark.
I they are any use to you, I have two ball joint repair kits, Quinton Hazell QSJ692RK (no idea whether they are for upper or lower ball joints) -yours for free if it'll help (or swap for something I need, like a spare starter motor?).
Cheers,
Mark.
Watch yourself closely when you brake. I've seen people unconciously tweak the steering to cover up for pulling brakes. But like you say, the new flexis will probably sort that out. As for the electrics, sounds like your night dimming relay (if fitted) is knackered. either that or the brake lights were too weedy to see with the relay in line.
No brake lights when side lights are on...
I have found that is uually due to those cr*p bulb holders that the dolomites have on the back. The earth connection on those holders is terrible. When braking, it uses the rear lamp wire as an eartt, but when they are powered up too, and you brake it all goes off.
Best to follow the solution on the triumph 2000, and wire a permanant earth to each holder!
Good Luck
Best to follow the solution on the triumph 2000, and wire a permanant earth to each holder!
Good Luck
Very Red. Not an insurmountable list of failures but many of them could have been picked up by your own pre-MOT checks. I'm so used to MOT Pass 1st time irrespective of age of vehicle, i'd be well myfed If I picked up a failure on some of those items although must admit to having to fit a new 380 bulb in my daily driver the other year, I swear it blew on the way to the test station cos I checked them the evening before 
