Steering play
Steering play
I have been trying to track down the play in my steering (about 3/4 - 1").
It looks like the intermediate shaft is moving in the lower knuckle joint. I think that the splines on the knuckle joint are worn.
Winns do a joint that they say is 'a huge improvement on the original' but it is quite expensive.
Has anybody used these?
Also, is it normal for these to wear in this area.?
It looks like the intermediate shaft is moving in the lower knuckle joint. I think that the splines on the knuckle joint are worn.
Winns do a joint that they say is 'a huge improvement on the original' but it is quite expensive.
Has anybody used these?
Also, is it normal for these to wear in this area.?
- Flyfisherman
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Re: Steering play
Alan
There are several lower steering knuckle around -
Solid type knuckle - which I am assuming Wins have is it like this one http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-FAM1718P,
The other two are very similar to look, they have rubber bushes fitted on the securing screws for the two half of the knuckle (Fram 1718) http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-FAM1718. This one cannot be repaired where the model prior to this one
can be - a replacement poly bush kit can be purchase from Chris Witor http://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.p ... F374-1179K
I suspect the type you have a earlier FAM1718 model and the rubber bushes have perished which is causing you to have the rotational play in the steering.
A picture would help to identify which model it is.
Paul
There are several lower steering knuckle around -
Solid type knuckle - which I am assuming Wins have is it like this one http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-FAM1718P,
The other two are very similar to look, they have rubber bushes fitted on the securing screws for the two half of the knuckle (Fram 1718) http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-FAM1718. This one cannot be repaired where the model prior to this one
can be - a replacement poly bush kit can be purchase from Chris Witor http://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.p ... F374-1179K
I suspect the type you have a earlier FAM1718 model and the rubber bushes have perished which is causing you to have the rotational play in the steering.
A picture would help to identify which model it is.
Paul
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Re: Steering play
Alan's car is a later one being on a V registration but it could have either type. I second Paul's recommendation of the Super Flex bush if this is an option. We could do with a photo.
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West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
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Re: Steering play
I had similar problems, and fitted a solid UJ version to my column. It is the same as a group4 escort joint, also used on a few triumphs.
I had to reduce the length of the intermediate column a little to fit it as the UJ takes up a bit of extra space over the old type joints.
I did rebush an old joint on my vitesse years ago, but comparing the costs of the rebush kit against the solid UJ it seems daft unless you have a real desire to keep the original one. But as the new UJ matches the one at the top of the shaft, I don't see an issue.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... +&_sacat=0
I had to reduce the length of the intermediate column a little to fit it as the UJ takes up a bit of extra space over the old type joints.
I did rebush an old joint on my vitesse years ago, but comparing the costs of the rebush kit against the solid UJ it seems daft unless you have a real desire to keep the original one. But as the new UJ matches the one at the top of the shaft, I don't see an issue.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... +&_sacat=0
Clive Senior
Brighton
Brighton
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Re: Steering play
Alan
have a look at the attached thread - does your coupling look like this one
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=26691&hilit=+coupling
This is the one that you require the re-bushing kit for.
or does it look like the Fram1718 model on Rimmers web site
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-FAM1718
This one cannot be repaired.
Paul
have a look at the attached thread - does your coupling look like this one
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=26691&hilit=+coupling
This is the one that you require the re-bushing kit for.
or does it look like the Fram1718 model on Rimmers web site
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-FAM1718
This one cannot be repaired.
Paul
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Re: Steering play
The universal joints rarely go.
The flexible coupling on the other hand goes all the time.
You can repair your old one with new small bushes or get a new one.
Jonners
The flexible coupling on the other hand goes all the time.
You can repair your old one with new small bushes or get a new one.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
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Re: Steering play
That is true, the vast majority of couplings I have seen have been the later type without the locking wire, and the bolt-ends have been (factory) squashed to prevent them undoing. I guess the bolt ends could be chopped off, but the bolts are special shouldered ones and not easy/cheap to find. I suppose the chopped ones could be refitted, and the edges punched to stop them undoing.
I have also heard Viton o-rings work pretty well as replacement bushes, and are rather cheaper than polybush.
Saying all that, solid UJ's are (personally speaking) the obvious answer.
I have also heard Viton o-rings work pretty well as replacement bushes, and are rather cheaper than polybush.
Saying all that, solid UJ's are (personally speaking) the obvious answer.
Clive Senior
Brighton
Brighton
Okay......
You should have checked with Geoff Winns first since you may actually be doing him a disservice,Flyfisherman wrote:Solid type knuckle - which I am assuming Wins have is it like this one http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-FAM1718P,
he sold me an original equipment Triumph 2000 manual steering upper UJs for this application. These are the proper forged type, not the cheap quality pressed alternative.
Given that they are still being made I guess Winns still sell the OE type.
Incidently, these T2000 UJs are also sold by Ford specialists as Escort Group 4 joints, but given the price differential

such as Winns International or Chris Witor.
Ian.
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Re: Steering play
I don't think that I can repair the joint because the shaft is turning in it.
I have put this video in my drop box which I think shows the problem (it may take a while to start).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/y7i3qhdw2m831 ... 9.mov?dl=0
I think the spline have gone in the joint.
I have put this video in my drop box which I think shows the problem (it may take a while to start).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/y7i3qhdw2m831 ... 9.mov?dl=0
I think the spline have gone in the joint.
- Flyfisherman
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Re: Steering play
AlanAlanH wrote:I don't think that I can repair the joint because the shaft is turning in it.
I have put this video in my drop box which I think shows the problem (it may take a while to start).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/y7i3qhdw2m831 ... 9.mov?dl=0
I think the spline have gone in the joint.
I would agree with you - its the knuckle or joint splines causing the problem, however there is some movement within the knuckle as well. New knuckle or joint required - before you order your knuckle, (from whoever your approved parts supplier is) I would removed the upper steering shaft and check to see if there is any damage to those splines - I doubt there will be any damage to those splines as the shaft is made from proper steel where the lower knuckle is probably made from monkey metal (poor quality metal).
Paul
Yes....
I concur, you need a new lower joint or a rebuildable replacement.AlanH wrote:I don't think that I can repair the joint because the shaft is turning in it.
I think the spline have gone in the joint.
If it was me, I would replace the intermediate shaft too and also the bolts & nylocs, for peace of mind if nothing other.
Ian.
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Re: Steering play
Wow, never seen play on the splines like that before.
I think as the guys say have the whole intermediate shaft off and see if the wear is in the splines or in the hole in the flexible joint.
Jonners
I think as the guys say have the whole intermediate shaft off and see if the wear is in the splines or in the hole in the flexible joint.
Jonners
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Re: Steering play
Wear on the splines is usually attributable to some numpty in the past not tightening the pinchbolt thoroughly enough.
Its pretty rare, but I have seen it before! As above, replace the lower joint, either sort will do but the U/J'd sort is worth the extra cost and effort cos it lasts a lot longer. With the intermediate shaft, it's harder to determine wear in the splines. Probably the best test is to put the new joint over it whilst it is still off the car, put a pinchbolt through, nip it up and see if there is any movement. If you are in any doubt though, change the intermediate as well, money is nothing compared with a steering failure!
Steve
Its pretty rare, but I have seen it before! As above, replace the lower joint, either sort will do but the U/J'd sort is worth the extra cost and effort cos it lasts a lot longer. With the intermediate shaft, it's harder to determine wear in the splines. Probably the best test is to put the new joint over it whilst it is still off the car, put a pinchbolt through, nip it up and see if there is any movement. If you are in any doubt though, change the intermediate as well, money is nothing compared with a steering failure!
Steve
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'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
Re: Steering play
The fact that the splines have gone does not surprise me at all given what else I have found on the car.
I am going to get them out of the car today and order the new parts. This is a bit disappointing because I'm always suspicious of third party bits (I've owned Triumphs for a few years now).
With regard to the lower joint I was thinking of the chunky one from Rimmers. However this is not an option because they are out of stock until next year. The UJ one is actually slightly cheaper but looks a bit flimsy. Steve says that the UJ one is more expensive, so is this a different type, possibly the one from Winns?. I will give them a ring.
ANG do one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPITF ... 51c387bd3a
Which looks very close to the original. I quite like the look of that.
Any feedback would be very welcome.
I am going to get them out of the car today and order the new parts. This is a bit disappointing because I'm always suspicious of third party bits (I've owned Triumphs for a few years now).
With regard to the lower joint I was thinking of the chunky one from Rimmers. However this is not an option because they are out of stock until next year. The UJ one is actually slightly cheaper but looks a bit flimsy. Steve says that the UJ one is more expensive, so is this a different type, possibly the one from Winns?. I will give them a ring.
ANG do one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPITF ... 51c387bd3a
Which looks very close to the original. I quite like the look of that.
Any feedback would be very welcome.