car died

[Larry 1300]

Hi I had stopped at a shop today. When I restarted the car she was going fine up the gears and then she stuttered to a halt. It was as if the petrol was not getting through. I pulled out the choke a little as she stuttered but this seemed to make no difference. She started after a few tries and there was no further problems after that. Any advice is appreciated.

[Jon Tilson]

Fit a cheap inline fuel filter just south of the fuel pump. Check all your electrical connections on the ignition
and all your rubber fuel pipe joining sections for perishing and pin holes that can let your pump suck air...

May be worth having the lid off the carb float chamber and giving it a clean out. Crud does get in there...
Clean out the filter on your fuel pump too.

Jonners

[Larry 1300]

Hi Jonners thanks for that.
I have bought fuel filters on ebay described as "2-x-LARGE-INLINE-FUEL-FILTER-UNIVERSAL-FIT-6MM-AND-8MM-PIPES".
Do you know if they would be suitable. I also have the fuel pipe clamps. The pipe from the fuel tank looks metal until the last section which looks as if it is rubber in the 1300. I presume therefore that I should cut the rubber section before the pump and put the filter in there. I will check the rest of your suggestions tomorrow.
Let me know if what I have said is ok please.

[Jon Tilson]

Yes the filter sounds ok....

I only think in imperial sadly...I think the fuel hose is 5/16th originally.

On a twin carb car the hoses at the carb end are slightly narrower.

The pipe runs under the length of the car and is mostly steel but has a few short rubber joining sections. These are the ones to check. Sadly modern fuel hose is of variable rubber quality, so dont replace old sections that look ok. Only do them if they
are badly perished.

I have had sections of fuel hose bought from reputable suppliers that have lasted sub 6 months....

Best of luck...doesnt sound too bad.

Jonners

[tony g]

A problem we will all face re fuel hose is that it isn't compatible with the ethanol they put in the petrol now. Even small amounts can dry out and crack the hoses. Ive been looking into this recently and there is a spec called SAE J30 R9. This hose is resistant to all additives now found in fuels we put in our cars. Its not cheap but is becoming essential I think. There is also R6 which is commonly sold but not as good as R9 which is also good for fuel injection pressures.

Tony

[Larry 1300]

Hi I checked the float chamber and there was a little silt so cleaned that. The filter at the pump was clean but there was a little silt underneath which I cleaned. The electrical connections look ok as do the rubber connections in the engine bay. I will check the other connections underneath the next time I get it up.
I plan to change the capacitor as this was not changed the last time that I changed the points as the new one I ordered was not working.
The tube before the pump looks about 15mm and the filter I have is for 6-9mm tubes. I will need to buy the right filter and clamps. If anyone can help me that would be great thanks.

[Howard81]

Check the jet tube isn't blocked, if you've had crud in the float chambers it may have carried some through.

Last year I had similar fuel problems to yours with my Spitfire which turned out to be the jet tubes. They looked fine and were clear from any blockages, but when the engine was cranked over the increase in pressure would cause the fuel line inside the tubes to collapse internally!

[cliftyhanger]

Remember most fuel related issues are actually ignition....

The new condensers are largely rubbish, I would rather use a 30 year old one. Honest. And the rotor arms that are sold in various boxes are pants, get a red version if that is less than 10 years old.....

[Howard81]

Or throw them in the spares box in the boot and fit an electronic ignition module instead!

[Jon Tilson]

Second what Howard said. I think you have a lucas 45D dizzie which takes the Britpart kit which is pretty cheap.
Had one on my last dolly 1300 and also still have one on my Spit 1500.

Jonners