Handbrake travel problem 1850 HL.

[Phil Huskinson]

I have had plenty of help re-(rear brake) binding, including pics. sent of return spring fitting. Thanks to all.
Now, I have fitted new rear brake shoes, both sides of course. New return springs and steady posts . I was really dismayed to find that the handbrake would not hold the car at all now on a slope. We live on a 1in5 hill so not good. I didn't expect any change in the handbrake.

I disconnected the cables via the rear clevis pins, and ratcheted up the arm which operates the self adjusting brakes until the inner lever inside the drum slipped, meaning full adjustment. On re-connection of the cables handbrake useless ! So I adjusted the actual cables, which meant the operating lever was slightly pulled, rather than as the manual says "replace the clevis pins without pulling on the operating lever".

Even so the handbrake needs to be pulled 8 notches before it holds on the slope. My questions are is this normal, as I expected say 4 notches (like my modern car) also will "bedding in" the shoes help, and maybe change the effectiveness. The drums were good, smooth and not ridged at the edge. Please help to all, and any ideas.

Phil.

[xvivalve]

Did you transfer the H shaped shims from your old shoes to the new?

[Toledo Man]

I've moved your thread here because it is a question and you're more likely to get some answers. My initial thought was that your brake shoes are too far away from the drum hence the excessive handbrake travel. The H shaped shims could be the reason as Alun as pointed out. Once you've sorted that out, you will need to adjust the shoes and then back them off until they're not touching the drum with the handbrake off. The self-adjusters might not be working as they should so you might need to clean and grease them up (use copper grease). Make sure the rest of the rear brakes are working freely. Once the brake shoes have been adjusted, you can then adjust the handbrake cables.

Hope this helps.

[xvivalve]

He might just wonder where his question has gone, only having posted 4 times...

[Jon Tilson]

If the shoes and drum lever are working properly you should be able to spin the back wheel freely by hand and the drum should lock immediately when you apply hand pressure at the handbrake lever with the cable detached. The movement at the end of the lever to lock the drum should be minimal, maximum 1cm. Any more than this and you have a missing H shaped shim or the self adjuster isn't working.

Jonners

[Carledo]

The handbrake will definitely improve once the new shoes have bedded in, its not unusual to have a cr*p handbrake to start with. But it shouldn't have a mass of travel so, as others have said, check that the H plates have not got lost, this is the normal culprit!

Steve