Fried voltage stabilizer?
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marko
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Fried voltage stabilizer?
due to a dodgy amplifier in my car I went to use it yesterday morning and the battery was flat. ok, another job on the list. however, when my girlfriend saw me struggling with the heavy charger/starter she came and helped. she said she'd wanted to help work on the car before so as I got the fat extension lead she connected the leads up wrong! after I rectified the problem I notice that the temperature reads 3/4 rather than the 1/2 way it did before. the fuel gauge works fine as it was empty then this morning I put £60 in it and it now reads full. could this just be an overheating issue coincidently at the same time?
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Jon Tilson
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Re: Fried voltage stabilizer?
Sounds very much like the instrument voltage stabiliser has popped.
Hope the same isn't true of the alternator diodes...
Should read 10 V on a cheap multimeter and you may even see it pulse...
Electronic ones are available cheap on ebay and from the club.
Jonners
Hope the same isn't true of the alternator diodes...
Should read 10 V on a cheap multimeter and you may even see it pulse...
Electronic ones are available cheap on ebay and from the club.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
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Toledo Man
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Re: Fried voltage stabilizer?
Yeah, I'd be more worried about the alternator diodes than the voltage stabilizer.
Toledo Man
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West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
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marko
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Re: Fried voltage stabilizer?
how can I check the alternator diodes? will it be charging to high? when I check the voltage stabiliser, do I just unplug the line out and expect 10volts?
cheers chaps
cheers chaps
Re: Fried voltage stabilizer?
Just check the charging rate and as long as the ign light works as normal and its charging ok youre good to go.
On the stabilizer yes output should be around 10v (easier to read with an older type analogue meter as digi ones are fluctuating so quick.
Tony
On the stabilizer yes output should be around 10v (easier to read with an older type analogue meter as digi ones are fluctuating so quick.
Tony
Membership 2014047
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Toledo Man
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Re: Fried voltage stabilizer?
With the engine running, you should be getting about 14 volts across the battery terminals if the alternator's working.
Toledo Man
West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
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AlanH
Re: Fried voltage stabilizer?
Check the voltage when you first start up.
You can get a problem where charging does not start until you have revved the engine (I think that it's above 3000).
You can get a problem where charging does not start until you have revved the engine (I think that it's above 3000).
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MIG Wielder
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Re: Fried voltage stabilizer?
The original voltage stabiliser is a bi-metallic thermal unit. It should not matter which way round the voltage is made to get it to operate. And the same with the fuel gauge and water temp; gauge. These are thermo-units as well. So reverse polarity should make no difference. But if you have a modern semiconductor voltage regulator replacement, then that will be damaged . You can check the output voltage with a DVM but it must have a True RMS voltage setting. You should see close to 10 V. Was the ignition switched on when the leads were connected in the reverse polarity ?
If not then a modern regulator will be O.K.
If so any electronic ignition system may be damaged as will any stereo unit.
But yes, as Dave says the main diodes in the alternator will probably be dead / degraded. Does the dashboard voltmeter give its usual reading with the headlights/ heater motor/ HRW / wipers all on at the same time. You may be lucky and get away with it depending on the source resistance behind the reversed leads.
Tony.
If not then a modern regulator will be O.K.
If so any electronic ignition system may be damaged as will any stereo unit.
But yes, as Dave says the main diodes in the alternator will probably be dead / degraded. Does the dashboard voltmeter give its usual reading with the headlights/ heater motor/ HRW / wipers all on at the same time. You may be lucky and get away with it depending on the source resistance behind the reversed leads.
Tony.